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858 Needs More Air!!

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I bet your problem is more related to the safety retard for exhaust overtemp. They get super hot and detune hard when exh temp gets over 1000.
Might be, but didn't have issues in left hand sidehills when vents weren't totally covered. There are likely a few factors, but hope some additional hood/panel venting will help to Chewy's point
 
I was able to carefully pull off the stock frogskins and put them over the top of the Fire n Ice frames. I did not use heat and the glue stayed on the skins.
Did you keep the Fire n Ice material on that is under their frame, and then just overlay the stock frogskinz on the frame top?
 
This looks interesting. Durability would be the same as stock but opens things up a bit. Might also work over the top of the F-n-I kit.

 
Stock frogzskins over the top of F-n-I intakes. Also added a 2 3/8 circle frogzskin in the back. See how this works. May order more circle frogzskin and add a couple holes where CO 2.0 pointed out.
 

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"bet your problem is more related to the safety retard for exhaust overtemp. They get super hot and detune hard when exh temp gets over 1000."


Do You know what temp is considered over temp? Pipe? Can? Just wondering if one could make a plug in resistor that would keep it in the happy zone,
I know one was available and some how to's to make one for early procross sleds.
 
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Stock frogzskins over the top of F-n-I intakes. Also added a 2 3/8 circle frogzskin in the back. See how this works. May order more circle frogzskin and add a couple holes where CO 2.0 pointed out.
There is a piece of plastic behind that back round vent inside that will need to be trimmed off or else its closed off from the rest of the intake. And the back little part that sandwiches the intake together will need silicone on the outside since it doesnt tuck into itself and create a seal.

And the stock under hood vent, cat installed a flapper plastic piece to it. It seems like its super tight and wont open much to even let under hood air in...
 

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There is a piece of plastic behind that back round vent inside that will need to be trimmed off or else its closed off from the rest of the intake. And the back little part that sandwiches the intake together will need silicone on the outside since it doesnt tuck into itself and create a seal.

And the stock under hood vent, cat installed a flapper plastic piece to it. It seems like its super tight and wont open much to even let under hood air in...
I just noticed that.
 
If the flapper don’t flap I wonder how much difference it would make good or bad with sucking hot air just to remove the flap
 
I just want hand warmers. None on my 165. Don't know what's up with that. Was also flashing a code. 1605 or something. Something with tss when we got back and checked. There was one other code but don't remember what it was. This one never bogged like the 154. Not clutched for our elevation. 7600 for most part. 165 is night and day over 154 but not as fun. Accessory running boards are night and day better than plastic boards. Estart button sucks. Had to pull the rope on165 and 154. Button freezes up.
 
I just want hand warmers. None on my 165. Don't know what's up with that. Was also flashing a code. 1605 or something. Something with tss when we got back and checked. There was one other code but don't remember what it was. This one never bogged like the 154. Not clutched for our elevation. 7600 for most part. 165 is night and day over 154 but not as fun. Accessory running boards are night and day better than plastic boards. Estart button sucks. Had to pull the rope on165 and 154. Button freezes up.
If both are not working, maybe check all the plug connections. Hope it’s not a harness issue although warranty would cover that.

There is times I have to push hard on the start button, even take my glove off.

Next trip out, I’m going to try unplugging the TSS. It seems to be sensitive and easy to trip if you’re hammering/pushing downward on the throttle.

So, should I have not changed my order and stuck with a 165? My mined still thinks I’m in my 20s but my body tells me otherwise when I’m on the mountain…..😂
 
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If both are not working, maybe check all the plug connections. Hope it’s not a harness issue although warranty would cover that.

There is times I have to push hard on the start button, even take my glove off.

Next trip out, I’m going to try unplugging the TSS. It seems to be sensitive and easy to trip if you’re hammering/pushing downward on the throttle.

So, should I have not changed my order and stuck with a 165? My mined still thinks I’m in my 20s but my body tells me otherwise when I’m on the mountain…..😂
Thumb was working. Don't think it was at end. Grip never worked. They were plugged in. Relay under hood but was thinking they're together so that's out. Harness somewhere.
Like always 154 is more fun. I got stupid and tried going over this tree on a really steep hill. It almost teetered over it and then I was stuck. My buddy couldn't get there on his 155 kaos boost. I will wait for verdict on that when I get it set up better.
Cooling is also about the equivalent to a 22 or 23 matryx which sucked.
 
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Can the 154" be tamed down pretty well? Every video I see, people are just doing wheelies everywhere. Not that wheelies aren't fun, but I like going forward too and being able to make it to the top of a hill.
 
Can the 154" be tamed down pretty well? Every video I see, people are just doing wheelies everywhere. Not that wheelies aren't fun, but I like going forward too and being able to make it to the top of a hill.
I'm sure it can be tamed down. I don't think it's as squirrely as my 20 154. The 154 is really fussy on foot placement as to whether it's mild or wild. 165 gets on snow and goes. It also backs up in deep snow which the 154 won't. Haven't rode the 146 yet. I actually think you could flip the 154 over on flat ground in deeper snow.
 
Can the 154" be tamed down pretty well? Every video I see, people are just doing wheelies everywhere. Not that wheelies aren't fun, but I like going forward too and being able to make it to the top of the hill.
They can, I usually will stand a little farther forward on the sled. Also, you can add air pressure (or tighten spring preload) on the rear skid shock to tone it down some.

Usually, the skis will still be off the snow during a WOT pull up hill, but not as high up and the sled is more manageable.
 
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