850 Turbo tunes Reviews

[irondave86]

Anyone actually having good results with bikeman? I have their set up for my 22 once it’s out of break in. Also have dj clutching. After reading all the reviews I may just keep it stock and add dj kit. Rode my 20.5 last year stock with a dj kit. Was great setup. Just wanted a little more this year


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have a 21’ 850T, Pump gas, Bikeman stage 2 tune, Bikeman pipe and can, 3-6000k riding area, 20 degree riding temps in December. Im actually a little nervous reading this thread. But so far my sled runs great, I have plenty of video of it. My track speed is good (mid-high 50’s). Power delivery is consistent and very crisp. Seat of the pants it feels like at least 10 MPH more track speed than bone stock on long climbs. I’m also running IBackshift clutching. For me the proof is in the performance. His clutch kit did exactly what he said it would for me.

In the end, I’m not sure it was worth the money. These things run pretty hard stock!

 

[cacsrx1]

Anybody hang a boost gauge on one thats been tuned vs stock to see what the actual difference in pressure is?

 

[Dynamo^Joe]

Thanks Joe , will try and call you tomorrow. i did not e-mail you cause i figured it was a bikeman issue ,, but they never got back to me. i would like to hear more about the muffler . i get to go out west 2 times a year for a week each time.. so what i bring is what i got , while im out there.. i cant run back and forth every weekend trying different stuff i don`t mind buying stuff ,, i just want it to do what i am told it will do.. that is why i did not think it was your clutching ,, your stuff has always been rock solid to me..
my 1 ?? about the muffler is if it does not work well how is it letting me pull all that weight at 10,500 feet at 8100 on clicker 3. that is just my thought .. thanks again for all advice

cheers scott

Better to email me Buddy. I dont know who you are from here eh. its difficult to get to the phone and check messages because the phone rings off the hook and average call is a range of 25 to 35 minutes, people have lots of questions. Sometimes i can't get to an email during the whole day, you'll see i do much emailing from 9pm to 1am because i have to switch over from phone to emails. Have to reach out by email and i can call. thanks, Joey.

 

[cgoff1984!]

Any one have any reviews of the tunes with the boondocker muffler. I purchased the reactor muffler last season and have yet to install. Rode my 20.5 stock last season with joeys clutching. Sold the 165 and now have a 22 154 . Trying to decide if the muffler and tune worth installing before we head west in February


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Inthe8s]

Anybody hang a boost gauge on one that's been tuned vs stock to see what the actual difference in pressure is?

Yep never checked it stock but on Bikeman stage 3 tune its rock solid at 7psi at 6000'

 

[Shortline]

I've been running the Bikeman Stage 2 all season and you couldn't pay me to go back to stock. I freaking love this tune. In my opinion it's the perfect balance of power without feeling like I'm stressing anything and giving up any reliability (time will tell on that).

I have the Bikeman can but I may change it out. Only because it is louder than I would like. I think the Diamond S my be quieter. I did do a LOT of trial and error with my clutching. I started with DJ's kit, then tried several primary springs, and lots of weight/clicker settings until I had what I consider to be the perfect engagement, responsiveness and top end. We have a N/A sled in the group that is completely stock and I think my bottom end is much snappier (riding at 3000-6000ft) and the top end absolutely sings!

 

[blackfab]

Anyone tried the Silber tunes/kit yet?

 

[10003514]

I had the chance to ride Ibexx 45hp tune. Sled also had a TKI belt drive and DJ clutch kit. Sled hauls on the top end, I do feel the bottom end just isn’t as smooth and responsive as stock. I’d be interested in a stage 2 setup potentially. Nice to see a few options out there but stock is just so smooth.

 

[live2beel]

Anytime you add more power you need more weight. More weight equals less responsive. Just one of the trade offs for now. Oem's will address this in the near future.

 

[Thielio20]

I've been running the Bikeman Stage 2 all season and you couldn't pay me to go back to stock. I freaking love this tune. In my opinion it's the perfect balance of power without feeling like I'm stressing anything and giving up any reliability (time will tell on that).

I have the Bikeman can but I may change it out. Only because it is louder than I would like. I think the Diamond S my be quieter. I did do a LOT of trial and error with my clutching. I started with DJ's kit, then tried several primary springs, and lots of weight/clicker settings until I had what I consider to be the perfect engagement, responsiveness and top end. We have a N/A sled in the group that is completely stock and I think my bottom end is much snappier (riding at 3000-6000ft) and the top end absolutely sings!

Care to share what your perfect combo came out to be?

 

[POWDOOER]

So I went with forced turbo performance stage 2 tune and Toms clutching. I also have a Diamond S can It’s a 2020.5 summit expert. I also have Toms suspension and Fox shocks. Everything was installed at Toms Snowmobile. It runs so good and has good bottom end. Way more top end power and almost As much bottom end as stock.

 

[Juggs]

i would like to know also or at least what spring you like

 

[TurboJamie]

I am finding the more I play with it that clutching is the key I think, I am not 100% sure yet but you must have clutching that allows it to rev down low and in the mid but loads up top once it comes on hard. I would say conditions and riding area make a huge difference in how they perform. I should have probably been more upfront with how I am using my sled so that guys understand my questions and trouble aren't likely to match the steep and deep crowd.

I am rocking a 154 turbo freeride shortened via rails and track to a 146" sled with a 1.75" track used as a flat land ultimate crossover sled. So were running around at only 1200'-1500' my sled has to work both in waist deep snow AND trails, hard pack, logging roads with 24" of snow on it etc. So probably a much different bird than you folks are used to. I am using much taller gearing 23/45 or 25/45 gears with the project goal of 110+ mph on hardpack but an animal offtrail as well. Trying to build a unicorn here if you guys know what I mean.

My saga still stands though and that is figuring out how to make it work everywhere how I want it too, will not stop until we get there!

 

[Shortline]

Care to share what your perfect combo came out to be?

Well, everyone has a different style of riding and different preferences. The best thing I did was change out the primary from the 100/360 in DJs kit (I'm not giving anything away here as Joe lists this data on his web page... trying to be respectful of his business) to a 150/350. I believe this is the stock high altitude primary spring. I went to the 150 lb engagement force because for my riding style, and snow conditions, I like the higher engagement rpm and immediate track speed that comes along with it. I found the lower engagement gave me too much traction at times and instead of letting me set an edge the sled would leap forward on me. The engagement rpm went from approx 2800 to 3800 rpm. I feel like this is a huge advantage for the turbo responsiveness. It makes sense that the stock doo engagement for the turbo is listed at 4100 rpm. I think they were trying to achieve the same effect.

I am currently running a 150/250 primary spring but I think I'm going to change back to the 150/350. The lower high end force of the 15/250 loads the motor just a little more and I think I can feel just a touch less mid range snappiness in the motor. I would really like to try a 150/300 spring but the closest I can find is a 170/300. I'm waffling back and forth about ordering that spring. Mostly because I hate the beating on primary to get the sheaves apart. LOL

I have the 994 ramps (I'm not sure if all turbos came with those ramps) and I load the pivot bolt weights to give me 79000-8000 on clicker 2. I don't know why but it seems like the clicker 2 position changes the ramp angle just enough to help with the low/mid range snappiness.

I keep a chronological spreadsheet of all the changes I make and notes about how it feels while riding. The spreadsheet has lots of 3 steps forward, 2 steps back, kind of iterations in it. So although the above sounds simple it came at a lot of experimentation. Riding one setup one day, with certain snow conditions and another setup the next day with different snow conditions is not the most effective way to evaluate changes but it's the best I can do.

I'm sure track length and rider weight have a lot do with all this tuning too. I ride a 165, 3 inch. My weight in full gear, with pack and tunnel bag I would estimate I'm putting 250-260 lbs on the sled.

I know some have commented that the stock muffler is better than the Bikeman can for power. I have not been motivated enough swap back and forth and to see for myself. In my simple mind the can should have less impact on a turbo'd sled than an N/A since the turbo is between the pipe and can. Just my $0.02 there don't anyone get their feathers ruffled.

 

[Juggs]

Goodwin performance sells a 150-300 spring / Bl /Bl.

SKU: 417224013 Categories: pDrive Clutching, pDrive Springs.

i belive it is a ski-doo spring

 

[TurboJamie]

I got my Maptun and have moved on from bikeman. The bikeman tunes don’t even compare to maptun it’s night and day. Wasted a ton of time trying to tune around their flash. I would buy maptun again if it was twice the price it’s that much better. Down a clicker # and added more weight! Primary spring next to softer finish crazy how much more power.

 

[sledhead_24_7]

I got my Maptun and have moved on from bikeman. The bikeman tunes don’t even compare to maptun it’s night and day. Wasted a ton of time trying to tune around their flash. I would buy maptun again if it was twice the price it’s that much better. Down a clicker # and added more weight! Primary spring next to softer finish crazy how much more power.

Good to hear some reviews on some other companies tunes.

How is the bottom end with Map tun vs Bikeman?

The dyno curves for the Map Tun start around 6000rpm and show huge increases in hp and torque over stock.

Since Bikeman starts their curves around 7000 rpm I’m curious how you fell they compare on the low end?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Ace Freely]

I got my Maptun and have moved on from bikeman. The bikeman tunes don’t even compare to maptun it’s night and day. Wasted a ton of time trying to tune around their flash. I would buy maptun again if it was twice the price it’s that much better. Down a clicker # and added more weight! Primary spring next to softer finish crazy how much more power.

Did you do a stage 1 or stage 2 tune?

Ace

 

[caper11]

Stage 2 requires a pipe for the maptun

 

[Ace Freely]

Stage 2 requires a pipe for the maptun

...correct...

Ace