3 gen 4s in our group, all 2-300 miles in hood deep snow with no issues at all.
850 ride report....few issues!!
- Thread starter Thistledoo
- Start date
Check your motor mounts, latest word from Revy is motors are moving a lot under load and belt gets loose. Maybe a limit stop is required.
Belt ??
Finally got her G4 out yesterday.
Imagine that.
Finally got her G4 out yesterday.
- Clutch alignment checked good.
- wiped & cleaned clutches.
- trail ride break-in. first 5 miles feather throttle to only 7000 rpm.
- stop, open panels, cool down motor & belt.
- 2nd 5 miles, feather to 7500 rpm
- stop, open panels, cool down motor & belt.
- 3rd 5 miles, feather throttle to 8000' rpm.
- stop, open panels, cool down motor & belt.
- removed that stoopd inner felt.
- Then WOT in 2' feet of fresh the rest of the day.
Imagine that.
Have 12 days now on the sled. Over the holidays had a couple deep days. Like waist deep snow and on the second day I strung number 4 belt. Clutches are still melting hot after a 15 min pow smash event. The 2014 163X following me just keeps on going with no belt problems. I ride the sled hard but it gives up before I do which on my 174X it was the other way around. The belts are blowing up all over western Alberta and all BC. If your not blowing them up good for u. But a lot of guys are and I want a sled I can ride like I did my T3. To the bar all day.
HAS to be an alignment issue. Has you dealer checked the "XYZ" measurement?
Ace
Ace
It is not an alignment issue I don't think, mine checked out perfectly according to the dealer.
That is of coarse assuming that their #s are not off like 08-12.
Would be nice if Doo would get there clutches to run cool from the factory for once....
That is of coarse assuming that their #s are not off like 08-12.
Would be nice if Doo would get there clutches to run cool from the factory for once....
Here are some shots from my FLIR temp guns from a few rides ago.
Here are some shots from my FLIR temp guns from a few rides ago.
That looks like cavity radiation to me, and the emissivity is not set correct.
You need to know the accuracy your IR gun has at a given distance and how large of an area the sensing cone is covering. I would think with most IR guns you need to have only the clutch face in view to get an accurate clutch temp reading and have it only an inch or two away from the belt to get a temperature on it. Emissivity on a clutch would be closer to 0.5 and a belt might be closer to 0.9.
The emissivity may off by some, but the point is these things are HOT, I can burn my hand if not careful when checking them. Also turning snow into steam instantly also says way HOT.
When I moved in with the temp gun the temps just got hotter, but you could not tell what I was pointing it at. Hence the distance of the pics, you can tell I am pointing at the Pdrive.
When I moved in with the temp gun the temps just got hotter, but you could not tell what I was pointing it at. Hence the distance of the pics, you can tell I am pointing at the Pdrive.
Its not as hot as the temp says, having a cavity radiator and using the wrong emissivity will give a reading way hotter than actual temp. Most people cant stand 60 deg C with there hands. No doubt the clutches are warm but this is nothing new in the doo dept, we know what the problems are and how to fix them.
I can put a piece of aluminum on the ground at 25deg c on a nice sunny day and shoot the temp with a imager, the temp will read approx -40.
The biggest issue with hand held temp guns, and thermal imagers are reflections and emissivity, if the user does not know how to work with both, than there will be lots of false positives.
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