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850/800 secondary clutch offset

These are the belt witness marks. They should be the same on both sides of the belt.



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What is the proper way to read this mark?
My belt shows the marks being slightly higher on the outside of the belt vs the inside (motor side)

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
What is the proper way to read this mark?
My belt shows the marks being slightly higher on the outside of the belt vs the inside (motor side)

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

What is your base measurement now? You will need to start there. You could be .100” out.
General rule, needs to come out.
 
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I'll just keep changing the inserts each year then.
Who has the best price?

Is there any advantage with using PTO inserts on the mag side as well?

Also, did Northstar Rick offer harder durometer motor mount rubbers?

That's 800 and I have a full set of brand new here with torque arm if anyone is going to the dealer ..FS!
 
OEM spec had my sled at the far outboard limit of spec. I was getting sub 100 miles per belt.

Moved out Per tonys spec as baseline and then using witness marks after first ride as reference shimmed .020" farther out for a total of .140" farther out then stock setup. My sled now is wearing belts perfectly evenly and im seeing WAY less clutch heat and belt wear. 200 miles on current belt and belt is looking awesome.
 
Tony,
does that measurement change with the 47C belt
my thought would be to add .013 to those measurements for the wider belt
 
So if the witness mark is bigger on the inside or engine side, the secondary needs to come out some more ?
 
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I got 260 miles on my first belt. I am about 50 miles into belt #2.
I'd better check my alignment.
 
Tony do you measure from the outside shiv of the secondary to front side of the key stock ? If so I need to come 0.088" out. Thanks
 
Whats the opinion of a LOT of "float" ?? Also anyone get the ninja tool on ebay ?? Right now using the .250 stock method i'm like .213 off, and have good belt life at 10 psi boost ??

QUOTE : below



we don't check adjust clutch alignment anymore. we float all Polaris driven clutches as much as possible. meaning only leaving shim's/washers behind the driven so it doesn't hit anything. remove the spring from the driven and put it back together and back on the shaft. open it up all the way and spin it to see how close it comes to grease fittings etc. always leave just one washer. you want .60 of float inward and outward from it being aligned. so minimum of .120 of float. up to .250 we run .250 on our pro-stock 600. it turns 10,500 rpm's.
 
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Remove your belt and bridge the key stock across the backside of your primary. With your caliper measure from the key stock to the outside leading edge of your secondary. The measurement we have found that works is:
850. 2.57”
800. 2.60.

16" 800 w/o Electric Start. Witness marks on my (new gates) belt are (none) on the motor side, ~.125" on panel side.

I took a measurement and I am more than .25" SHORT of your recommended amount for the 800. What am I missing?

Measuring:

outside (panel side) of bar stock to the outside face of secondary (Panel side), clutch pushed in, no belt installed (Shouldn't matter).

NO spaces installed on the secondary between bearing and clutch except the required one from the factory (washer).

Last gates belt lasted 200 miles before it exploded, full discloser, I folded it. Sled down RPM currently. (7900 / 8000)
 
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