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850/800 secondary clutch offset

16" 800 w/o Electric Start. Witness marks on my (new gates) belt are (none) on the motor side, ~.125" on panel side.

I took a measurement and I am more than .25" SHORT of your recommended amount for the 800. What am I missing?

Measuring:

outside (panel side) of bar stock to the outside face of secondary (Panel side), clutch pushed in, no belt installed (Shouldn't matter).

NO spaces installed on the secondary between bearing and clutch except the required one from the factory (washer).

Last gates belt lasted 200 miles before it exploded, full discloser, I folded it. Sled down RPM currently. (7900 / 8000)

Sent a PM, Thanks
 
E start is Aprox .400 added BTW, next time I have one totally off i'll measure it exactly, i'm seeing .375-.400 best I can do while mounted and installed on sled
 
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All motor mounts swapped out, as well as the OEM torque arm bushing. The clutch is sitting 2.7 exactly pushed in with two shims behind the secondary. They were mashed together pretty good and I didn't relize there were two before. I removed one and I am exactly 2.6" pushed in. This measurement is from the MAG side of the key stock to the outside edge of the secondary.

I am not running an SLP Torque arm, and from this, I should be exactly where I need to be?
 
Okay, so either something is REALLY wrong with my sled, or I am missing something here.

The consensus seems to be to measure on the Orange Line in my picture. That is from the side of the bar facing you to the outside of the secondary. Doing that I get 2.35" with ~0.25" of spaces between the secondary and the jackshaft bearing.

If I measure the yellow bar (Backside of the key stock to the front side of secondary) I get ~2.7 inches. (Varies 2.68 - 2.71), which would indicate I need to remove 0.1 from the secondary spacers.

If the correct measurement is the orange bar, there is no way I am that far off....

The belt is removed, and the secondary is fully collapsed/pushed up against the jackshaft bearing.

Measurement Locations.jpg
 
Okay, so either something is REALLY wrong with my sled, or I am missing something here.

The consensus seems to be to measure on the Orange Line in my picture. That is from the side of the bar facing you to the outside of the secondary. Doing that I get 2.35" with ~0.25" of spaces between the secondary and the jackshaft bearing.

If I measure the yellow bar (Backside of the key stock to the front side of secondary) I get ~2.7 inches. (Varies 2.68 - 2.71), which would indicate I need to remove 0.1 from the secondary spacers.

If the correct measurement is the orange bar, there is no way I am that far off....

The belt is removed, and the secondary is fully collapsed/pushed up against the jackshaft bearing.

What year is your sled? Looks like it might not be an axys chassis


850 & 800 PIDD Cables
www.cvcustoms.com
Get Some Get There
 
Okay, so either something is REALLY wrong with my sled, or I am missing something here.

The consensus seems to be to measure on the Orange Line in my picture. That is from the side of the bar facing you to the outside of the secondary. Doing that I get 2.35" with ~0.25" of spaces between the secondary and the jackshaft bearing.

If I measure the yellow bar (Backside of the key stock to the front side of secondary) I get ~2.7 inches. (Varies 2.68 - 2.71), which would indicate I need to remove 0.1 from the secondary spacers.

If the correct measurement is the orange bar, there is no way I am that far off....

The belt is removed, and the secondary is fully collapsed/pushed up against the jackshaft bearing.
Yes, it’s the orange line.
Make sure your keystock is not resting on any casting marks on the back side of your primary.
Note:
If your primary or secondary has been machined, for weight loss by Patrick, this method will not work.
 
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Okay, got it all figured out. My dial Calipers were not right... I checked with a tape measure and was really off. I got a new dial caliper and I needed to come out as you mentioned. Adjusted float back to 0.030 as well.

Never thought my calipers would be off...
 
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Whats the opinion of a LOT of "float" ?? Also anyone get the ninja tool on ebay ?? Right now using the .250 stock method i'm like .213 off, and have good belt life at 10 psi boost ??

QUOTE : below



we don't check adjust clutch alignment anymore. we float all Polaris driven clutches as much as possible. meaning only leaving shim's/washers behind the driven so it doesn't hit anything. remove the spring from the driven and put it back together and back on the shaft. open it up all the way and spin it to see how close it comes to grease fittings etc. always leave just one washer. you want .60 of float inward and outward from it being aligned. so minimum of .120 of float. up to .250 we run .250 on our pro-stock 600. it turns 10,500 rpm's.


Can anything hurt from running too much float? I was burning belts if it was deep snow or above 6 psi. In a pinch I added a ton of float while on the hill, didn't wreck a belt for rest of year.
 
so is the number for the 800 2.51 or 2.6? if it is 2.51 mine is .17 out sled has 1200 miles i assume on stock motor mounts (just bought it) i will change out the mounts and remeasure.

thanks
 
I need to move .223 out. Seems like a large number. I have a '16 800 axys. Anyone else seeing this? I triple checked as well.

I have had good belt life. Then again I don't think much can kill these hard rock polaris belts.
 
Using the available Polaris shims, if you can't achieve a perfect 2.60 is it better to be slightly under or over that measurement?
U should be able to always get it perfect if u have some sandpaper nearby.

Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk
 
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