800 CFI's... look at this, might be on to something
- Thread starter diamonddave
- Start date
Oil line
I had a similar bubble on my sled when new - pulled the line apart to bleed out the air and it didn't return. I agree it has to do with the way the line is routed - similar to the way the PTO end oil line on the old "big block" motors often had a small bubble in it near the PTO side carb as the air was getting chased out of the system. Those always pumped oil regardless of the bubble. So, what you see may not be "the reason" for the problems, it always bothered me to see bubbles in the oil lines. As far as Polaris denying warranty for "nothing", that isn't uncommon. It makes me believe they don't have any idea what is going on or how to fix it and are trying to cut their losses.
I had a similar bubble on my sled when new - pulled the line apart to bleed out the air and it didn't return. I agree it has to do with the way the line is routed - similar to the way the PTO end oil line on the old "big block" motors often had a small bubble in it near the PTO side carb as the air was getting chased out of the system. Those always pumped oil regardless of the bubble. So, what you see may not be "the reason" for the problems, it always bothered me to see bubbles in the oil lines. As far as Polaris denying warranty for "nothing", that isn't uncommon. It makes me believe they don't have any idea what is going on or how to fix it and are trying to cut their losses.
E
EricW
Well-known member
Got Dial A Jet.....lol. EW
Update
I have to say that I'm a little suprised to here that so many of you have already seen this. I thought I had read quite a bit on this sled, just don't remember this. I WILL be addressing this cap/vent deal. I just don't like the idea of a sled idling and a vent not venting half the time.
So after removing t-bodies to be able to access the oil pump line just a little, I found this..
Just below the mag side injector, using a mirror is the only way to see this. The white fluffy stuff you see is where my mirror has worn out. It gets used everyday.
I wonder which side will go down first
I have to say that I'm a little suprised to here that so many of you have already seen this. I thought I had read quite a bit on this sled, just don't remember this. I WILL be addressing this cap/vent deal. I just don't like the idea of a sled idling and a vent not venting half the time.
So after removing t-bodies to be able to access the oil pump line just a little, I found this..
Just below the mag side injector, using a mirror is the only way to see this. The white fluffy stuff you see is where my mirror has worn out. It gets used everyday.
I wonder which side will go down first
Last edited:
...
ya know if you keep the sled going uphill the cap will work fine... haha, yeah you need to get that air out of there stat
ya know if you keep the sled going uphill the cap will work fine... haha, yeah you need to get that air out of there stat
Tiny bubbles...
That isn't something I'd want to see. I'd suspect that with that large bubble in your feed line (regardless of the reason for it being there), you must be intermittently getting "burps" of air getting into the oil pump. Which line is that? Bearing oilers pump VERY slowly, so they could conceivably take quite a while to clear the air out. If it's for one of the cylinders, that could be trouble, although Nicasil is tough (but pistons aren't). Frankly, this makes me curious enough about what you see to go out and take another look at my sled. I know when I first got my sled and cleared the air out of the feed line, it took a bit of running to clear all the bubbles out of the rest of the lines, but eventually they were completely clear of air. I watched oil consumption carefully (especially early on), but after I re-adjusted my pump a few weeks into the season (increased oil rate), I haven't gone back in with a mirror to look as closely as you have.
That isn't something I'd want to see. I'd suspect that with that large bubble in your feed line (regardless of the reason for it being there), you must be intermittently getting "burps" of air getting into the oil pump. Which line is that? Bearing oilers pump VERY slowly, so they could conceivably take quite a while to clear the air out. If it's for one of the cylinders, that could be trouble, although Nicasil is tough (but pistons aren't). Frankly, this makes me curious enough about what you see to go out and take another look at my sled. I know when I first got my sled and cleared the air out of the feed line, it took a bit of running to clear all the bubbles out of the rest of the lines, but eventually they were completely clear of air. I watched oil consumption carefully (especially early on), but after I re-adjusted my pump a few weeks into the season (increased oil rate), I haven't gone back in with a mirror to look as closely as you have.
I would not say the first pic in this thread is a bubble, it is more then a bubble. On the Big Blocks we have always seen the little bubbles in the smaller lines after the pump and I have always been told they are not a big deal.
Your issue is much more then just little air bubbles of the past. Those are big voids in your lies and I would suspect the cap as you have stated already. For some reason your oil system is burping air and I would guess that at some point your oil tank/system creats enough vaccum to open the air valve in the cap and burp, sucking air into the tank/system causing an air bubble in the line. To my knowledge there is no oneway valve so it could, in theory, suck back into the tank when it burps causing voids in your lines.
Don't bash me here, just my own little theory of what is happening. I hope you get is resolved.
Your issue is much more then just little air bubbles of the past. Those are big voids in your lies and I would suspect the cap as you have stated already. For some reason your oil system is burping air and I would guess that at some point your oil tank/system creats enough vaccum to open the air valve in the cap and burp, sucking air into the tank/system causing an air bubble in the line. To my knowledge there is no oneway valve so it could, in theory, suck back into the tank when it burps causing voids in your lines.
Don't bash me here, just my own little theory of what is happening. I hope you get is resolved.
G
GBCB
Active member
I'm probably a victim of this too. I hit a rock and upended machine. Ended up rolling machine the remaining 200 degrees to upright and finished riding. At end of ride you could hear the ol girl knock a little at idle. Next ride, the pto piston rod siezed. After pulling jugs it was clearly a lack of oil on pto side. This was on the infamous '06 model but I still believe it was oil related and not clutch/crank runout related. As stated in an earlier post, I guess its best to stay upright.
I got two weekend rides on my 2010 D8 since getting it in march. While cleaning it up I noticed the same bubble in the oil feed line. I have about 150 miles on it. Is there any reason why I couldn't just take the line off below the filter and fill it with a syringe or eye dropper? I was watching the oil level since it was new yet and breaking it in and the oil consumption rate was good so I don't think it hurt anything but I am gonna get rid of the bubble and keep an eye on it next season.
Just a thought and a long shot at that. The oilers should be bi-directional but could they be messing up whenever the engine is in reverse allowing the pump to try and push the oil back into the tank and then when in forward trying to suck again?
jdtech65, I would thake the oil line off from the furthest point away from the oil tank (where it connects to the engine) and you would think it should gravity feed thru the line to purge out all of the air.
If not then pressurize the oil tank by blowing into it either with a regulated compressed air supply (5 psi or so) or just by mouth (have a buddy help here) until enough oil has been pushed thru the length of oil line to get all of the air out and then reconnect the oil line to the engine. If it doesn't free flow without the help of air pressure it may indicate that the filter should be replaced.
One more thought. Could it also be a case of where in could weather the mineral oils (if thats the oil of choice for some) are getting "thicker" in the cold weather and not flowing thru the filter as maybe a synthetic oil would?
jdtech65, I would thake the oil line off from the furthest point away from the oil tank (where it connects to the engine) and you would think it should gravity feed thru the line to purge out all of the air.
If not then pressurize the oil tank by blowing into it either with a regulated compressed air supply (5 psi or so) or just by mouth (have a buddy help here) until enough oil has been pushed thru the length of oil line to get all of the air out and then reconnect the oil line to the engine. If it doesn't free flow without the help of air pressure it may indicate that the filter should be replaced.
One more thought. Could it also be a case of where in could weather the mineral oils (if thats the oil of choice for some) are getting "thicker" in the cold weather and not flowing thru the filter as maybe a synthetic oil would?
I Follow Carls Cycle and SLP's recomendation of Redline.
Update after bleeding main oil line...
After bleeding the main line and going for a good hard ride, I now have about a 1.5" inch air bubble in the main line in the same place as before, directly below the filter. I didn't feel like pulling the airbox to prove it with a pic, but it's there.
Thank God for the premix this thing has always recieved.
After bleeding the main line and going for a good hard ride, I now have about a 1.5" inch air bubble in the main line in the same place as before, directly below the filter. I didn't feel like pulling the airbox to prove it with a pic, but it's there.
Thank God for the premix this thing has always recieved.
Similar threads
