L
lightening800
Well-known member
DID YOU STAY 163"?
3" x 163 CE track on Pro RMK
- Thread starter glassman
- Start date
DID YOU STAY 163"?
D
Dr. Evil
Member
3inch track
I can't speak from experience for that track on the pro. But I just sold a TM7 that I put the 163x3 on and it was night and day differnce. My brother and I both had Twisted M7's and he had the 2.5 CE and I had put the 3inch on and he had to turn the boost up 3 to 4 pounds to try and keep up. Turboed or not you should see similiar results. Keep us updated on how it compares to the 174x2.5 or the stock 163.
I can't speak from experience for that track on the pro. But I just sold a TM7 that I put the 163x3 on and it was night and day differnce. My brother and I both had Twisted M7's and he had the 2.5 CE and I had put the 3inch on and he had to turn the boost up 3 to 4 pounds to try and keep up. Turboed or not you should see similiar results. Keep us updated on how it compares to the 174x2.5 or the stock 163.
pics please
hey glassman hows about some more pics of the the avid install
thanks
hey glassman hows about some more pics of the the avid install
thanks
Now thats the sh.t I want to hear. Gonna try it out on thursday against the exact machine with the stock track.
Well I had the machine out for two days in some pretty deep stuff. About 2 - 3 feet of powder and compared it to my buddies stock 163. Definately has an advantage over the stock track. I can travel at lower speeds to get around which is exactly what I wanted. On a decent hill with untouched snow I was clearly traveling longer distance each time. To be fair though I have a head on mine and he doesnt. Next ride we will have exactly the same mods other than the track. So far I am impressed.
Please keep up the reports on your set up. It's really hard to get good comparisons like this. Same day, same snow only diff is the one mod. Very valuable. Thanks.
removal of chaincase involves heating the adhesive with a propane torch.
You have to cut the little notch off the tunnel
Fit the billet housing on the clutch side and mark the bearing retainer on the inside of the tunnel. Cut away the marked out area.
Notch the footwell for the lower bolt on the chaincase.
Bolt everything up and drill two extra holes. The chaincase uses the existing two front bolt holes and you drill the three back ones.
Install and check fitment of drivers.
Drill the front suspension bolt down and back 1" and use the provided blocks with pilot holes on the back brackets.
The rails need to be cut back 2 3/4" to avoid hitting the drivers.
The kit came with 19/45 gearing and the stock clutching seems to be pretty close.
You have to cut the little notch off the tunnel
Fit the billet housing on the clutch side and mark the bearing retainer on the inside of the tunnel. Cut away the marked out area.
Notch the footwell for the lower bolt on the chaincase.
Bolt everything up and drill two extra holes. The chaincase uses the existing two front bolt holes and you drill the three back ones.
Install and check fitment of drivers.
Drill the front suspension bolt down and back 1" and use the provided blocks with pilot holes on the back brackets.
The rails need to be cut back 2 3/4" to avoid hitting the drivers.
The kit came with 19/45 gearing and the stock clutching seems to be pretty close.
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I am running the 13.1 power addiction head with the HPS can combo. It works exactly like Brad says. Great throttle response and pump gas fuel. Unloaded at about 2500 ft and rode to 7000 ft with no detonation.
We also had my other buddies sled with us with the same 3" track. He is running the slp single with a programmer on his 2011. I would say our machines were running pretty much the same performance wise. Only he paid about $1000.00 more than I did. He also has some "top secret clutching" and a team tied. Bang for buck I think he wasted some coin in that department.
I bought the track from Specialty Sleds already cut down. They use a tablesaw I think and cut the remainder of the paddle tapered in by hand. Charged me $250.00 to do it but I didnt want to try that myself.
We also had my other buddies sled with us with the same 3" track. He is running the slp single with a programmer on his 2011. I would say our machines were running pretty much the same performance wise. Only he paid about $1000.00 more than I did. He also has some "top secret clutching" and a team tied. Bang for buck I think he wasted some coin in that department.
I bought the track from Specialty Sleds already cut down. They use a tablesaw I think and cut the remainder of the paddle tapered in by hand. Charged me $250.00 to do it but I didnt want to try that myself.
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Does the kit come with a new bearing retainer for the clutch side or do you reuse the stock one?
You re-use your stock retainer but get a new bracket to mount it too. You also will need to get a pan made to protect the bottom of your chaincase, as it is considerably lower than the bulkhead now.
I also have about 1" of clearance around the track to tunnel at the front. I can still slip the driveshaft out without removing the chaincase even with the extroverts.
Going back out on thursday to put some more miles on.
I also have about 1" of clearance around the track to tunnel at the front. I can still slip the driveshaft out without removing the chaincase even with the extroverts.
Going back out on thursday to put some more miles on.
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I didn't know they made a 163x 3" track, just 162 and 174 in 3". What's the part # for that 163x3" track? Sounds like maybe I want one. Buddy with an xp said the same thing, put a 3" track and you'll have way more fun and go anywhere.
My bad, it is a 162. The machine was originally a 163. Thanks for the tip.
Ok, another day out and things seem to be good so far. Definately works better than an E-tec with a 2.5. One thing I am considering is I noticed the primary clutch isnt shifting out all the way to the top. There is a good 3/8" of untouched sheave. The kit comes with 19/45 gearing and I was concerned about the power of the engine pulling this track. Has anyone used 18/45, and did you get full shift on the clutches?
In my minds eye, I am leaving some ratio in the transmission that could be utilized. Any thoughts?
In my minds eye, I am leaving some ratio in the transmission that could be utilized. Any thoughts?
That 18 tooth is one small gear. Might do the trick but very hard on the chain. Speaking from past experience.
Im asuming you mean in deep snow at elevation?? If so, dont worry about a full shift on the primary. I think 3/4ths up the primary is the sweet spot for mountain riding. This will keep your shift ratio closer to 2 to 1 which is more efficient. I gear for no more than 80mph and clutch from there. Im sure the 800 has enough to pull it with 19/45. I would not run an 18 top gear myself.
Im curious, is it pulling rpm?? Hows the difference in track speed??
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