Nice! I cut 6 and did the mtntk kit but im not real confident in the plastic peices.With a 5’ cooler, probably 6-8”... I’ve got a couple of 155s in the shop. I’ll try to remember to measure them for you.
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Nice! I cut 6 and did the mtntk kit but im not real confident in the plastic peices.With a 5’ cooler, probably 6-8”... I’ve got a couple of 155s in the shop. I’ll try to remember to measure them for you.
Saw those - i thought you had two additional videos comparing tunnel rigid..![]()
Missing Digit Motors —Murph—
Snowmobile performance shop working exclusively on 2016 and newer Polaris ProRMK snowmobiles. Turbo installs, Khaos conversions, tunnel shortening. Dealer fo...www.youtube.com
Sounds like they upgraded the epoxy a few months ago and haven't had much issues since. (according to them). Can you post a pic of how the tail end looks post cutting? Are you happy with the results?Nice! I cut 6 and did the mtntk kit but im not real confident in the plastic peices.
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Saw those - i thought you had two additional videos comparing tunnel rigid..
I believe he's involved in search and rescue and often times in low snow scenario's - gives the ability to pack with snow to keep it cool.The holes on top are added because of spring time conditions? Did you see much difference once you added the holes? I only ask because behind the theory of the fins, the air movement underneath should still add a cooling factor where the factory with the flat design wouldn’t have any cooling with just air movement. I somewhat understand the reasoning as to why you have holes drilled on top, but if you’re not having any issues with overheating without, why add them?
The holes on top are added because of spring time conditions? Did you see much difference once you added the holes? I only ask because behind the theory of the fins, the air movement underneath should still add a cooling factor where the factory with the flat design wouldn’t have any cooling with just air movement. I somewhat understand the reasoning as to why you have holes drilled on top, but if you’re not having any issues with overheating without, why add them?
... I think the holes are the only way I got back to the truck without overheating. I could stop and throw snow directly on the cooler whereas the spots without holes didn't even melt the snow. Putting my old scratchers back on for next weekend. But glad I cut the holes.
Do you just run typical scratchers (looks like it in the pics)? And normal coolant (not the extreme blue or anything special)? Having cooling issues with this setup in great snow conditions and just want to see what to chase.
Thanks. I will try a few things. I was much higher than that...Stock scratchers. Normal coolant.
88-96 degrees in deep snow.
Trail temps can creep up to 130-- depending on speed and how icy the trail is.
You have an air bubble.Thanks. I will try a few things. I was much higher than that...
Great! I will give that a try. Thanks for the suggestion.You have an air bubble.
my brothers 2018 was similar till he ran it with the-front end up and the cap off for a bit.
Ended up going this route instead of the shortening kit after reading this thread. Here's what I experienced:
Rode this past weekend in the Blowies. Concrete snow, few inches of fresh on top the first day, 8-12+ second day. Rode the trail most of the first day to break in and the fiance was along. Engine temps were 95-105 and never saw over 115 all day after putting on 80 miles.
Day 2, found some logging roads and played in the trees a bit since they got a few inches overnight. Temps were 95-105 down the main trail, jumped off and they sky rocketed to 165+ (saw upwards of 183). Couldn't get the sled to cool down, and coolant didn't move in the bottle one bit. Jumped back on the main trail with the fiance while the other two went and played, sled hovered around 140 degrees. Stopped for lunch at the warming hut and come out to a huge chunk of ice on top of my track (big enough it locked my track up it wouldn't clear the drivers). Ride the trail back to the lodge to only see temps at 95-103.
I went this route instead of the shortening kit because I was concerned about the fact of overheating on the trail. Knowing this cooler is finned I thought it would act as an air cooled engine and use the fins for cooling with air flow during times of lack of snow (ie. riding the trail). This I was right, never did overheat or get warm on the trail. However, the second I would dip off and get some fresh soft snow thrown up, the fins would trap the snow, freeze it, and then insulate the cooler causing the coolant to never cool down.
I have a shortening kit on the way, but might end up taking the sled to the local machine shop and get the factory cooler welded together again. In my opinion, this 5ft cooler is a waste by itself, and would be a benefit to the factory cooling system but is not worth the money to use by itself.
However, the second I would dip off and get some fresh soft snow thrown up, the fins would trap the snow, freeze it, and then insulate the cooler causing the coolant to never cool down.
The same way when the ground is warm and the mountains get pounded with snow it actually will insulate the ground and keep it warm causing avalanches. The fins on the cooler are holding the snow in it, cool air from track movement and additional snow getting thrown up getting more and more packed in caused the snow to melt and freeze right away, then insulate the cooler. This could be just the type of snow I was in, but this is just what my experience has been. I know there are several out there that have had good luck going this route.Something doesn’t sound right. Your temps are climbing when you jump off the trail into deep snow?
In deep snow, my 5’ cooler equipped 2020 runs significantly cooler than a stocker. Days and days of this scenario in Tahoe, McCall, Cooke City and everywhere else we rode last year.
How is ice sticking to a cooler that has 100+ degree coolant in it?
I’m just trying to get my head wrapped around your issue.