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One thing that Keeps bothering me about this is why did it do it? It's obviously lack of oil in that cylinder but why? I checked the line, it's not plugged. Other two cylinders looked good. Any reason? I don't want to be doing this again any time soon
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could be something like that carb wasnt seated pefectly for a spell, or someone ran wrong plug..
ill send ya a 3-way egt if you wanna keep an eye on things. i bought it at a swapmeet but never needed it. got a pod too..
The screws that you're talking about are the throttle stops for setting the minimum air/idle SPEED. I'm talking about the idle air bleed screws which are used to make "fine" adjustments to the air/fuel ratio at idle. They are small, brass screws on the mag side of the carb, before the throttle slide. They are very small and almost countersunk. They should be set to start with, about 1.5 turns out from bottomed, and then adjust from there to achieve the strongest (highest) idle possible. If adjusting those screws makes the idle speed too high, then you lower the speed by "unscrewing" the throttle stop screws (the ones w/the springs) which lowers the slides. Doing THAT, will make the idle air bleed screws more sensitive and you can usually go back to the idle air bleed screws and get "more out of them", so to speak.
To set the screws with springs on them (the idle speed/throttle stop screws) there are a plethora of methods, but here is the cheapest, easiest way I know of, and how I do it:
Remove the air box and with one hand hold the throttle close to WOT. With the other hand, reach into ONE of the carbs and feel the throttle slide. Adjust the throttle setting w/your throttle hand, until the leading edge of the slide is flush w/the top of the carb's bore. Holding the throttle from moving from that point, feel the other two carbs. If the slides of those carbs is not flush w/the top of the bore, like your first carb was, then you need to adjust the throttle cable tension (where the cable s screw into the top of the carb) until they are all equal in "height".
Now all three slides are aligned together, at the same "height", and this is critical on the Piston port 600 engine. Now, release the throttle, and using two fingers reach in and touch two of the carb slides at the same time. Using other hand, ever so slightly squeeze the throttle, lifting the slides off their stops. They should start moving at exactly the same time. If one slide starts to lift before another, that means what? That it's Stop (the screw w/the spring on it) is back off further than the others, and that slide is coming to rest lower in the bore. Which means at idle, that cylinder wouldn't be pulling it weight. Go back and forth, checking two carbs together at a time, until you've got them all perfectly operating, in unison.
With the air screws adjusted 1.5 turns out, and the belt off, start the engine and get it warmed up a little. Dial in the air bleed screws, then shut off and install the belt. Start it up again, and then you need to adjust the idle speed with the belt on, using the stop screw...again. After you get the desired idle speed, you'll need to double check that the slides are lifting in unison, again.
Once ALL that is done, and assuming that your belt tension is correct, the thing should start when warm, with about 6" of pull cord and a sharp jerk.
Looks like you better add more oil, I could still see the sled!!
Glad you got it running.