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1996 XCR 600 Light Mod-Help/suggestions

Update, I feel like I have everything dialed in fairly well on the stand. I get only a slight hesitation off idle and then it clears up and rips to about 8800 or so. I may have to mess with clutching some once I hit the snow to get it in that 92-9300 range where it will like it.

Talking with a buddy who has tons of experience with these motors, he says for our elevation where I will be doing some riding under 5000 feet, he would fatten the jetting to 230s instead of 220s just to be on the safe side. Looking forward to getting some snow to test this thing!
 
you ready for some gen2 spindles yet? comin your way if youre still into it...



Oh yeah still into it for sure! Actually walked by it in the garage tonight and thought "dang I need to get back on that". Hopefully I'll be picking up the rest of the parts too...


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95 xlt 600 mod, swapped out the 600 triple for a rmk 700 out of a 2000 with slp ceramic coated twin pipes and can, 156" track with a 03 144" vertical escape skid and suspension, ekholm tunnel, 08 dragon 900 seat and tank, bar riser, longer shocks added to with stock crc suspension, 10 tooth cogs, big wheels moved to inside rails and outside wheels removed with 2 left in center, dropped and rolled chain case that has been geared but I cant remember what it is exactly. Need to get the front end higher to level it out a bit due to the rear end being lifted up a foot and a half. Any ideas on how to get the front end up higher. It's already 2"+ with longer shocks and the crc front arms adjusted. It's super easy to side hill and steering is perfect and super easy and not concerned with it being tippy because I would like it that way so I can effortlessly throw it on side to side hill or get the ass end of sled to spin around. It has alot of power and will still blow away my friends 08 dragon 700's and 800's. The only problem I'm trying to get figured out is to get the front end higher so it's not riding on the front of the skid and get it to stop trenching so much20200105_053659.jpg
with out having to dump a bunch of money into it because I haven't had to spend any money at all to get the sled to where it's at and didn't even spend any money to buy it in beginning and got it and all the add on parts and everything to get it to how it is now and what not by trading something I got for free and did it in less than a year. So in a way I wheeled and dealed to get and20200106_071624.jpg build a nice sled and my goal is to have a bad ass wedge mod built the way I like and be able to go anywhere I point it and be able to keep the money spent on it at 0 that way if I end up selling it or something it will be worth good money and it's all profit. Well anyways any suggestions or has anyone done a mod that works well on their sleds to get the front end higher
 
Why is the front arm mounts mounted below the tunnel? You have a wicked angle of attack. Shouldn't be so drastic with a drop n roll. If you could move the front arm into the tunnel and maybe see how you are for clearance on the rear mounts. How close is the track to the tunnel at the rear mounts?
 
I'm no expert on mod sleds, but I think Reeb is right on. Instead of raising the front, why not suck the skid up a little and kill two birds? Sweet sled though!
 
If I could I would, but with the elkholm tunnel and the chain case dropped and rolled I had to use a 144 skid with the 156" track because the 155 skid and suspension wouldn't work due to the skid being up against cogs when you tried to bolt it up, so I ended up dropping the rear of sled down 1.5 inches last night and I got longer spindles I'm gonna try of another one I got and it should be perfect. Even how it was before I lowered the back it worked pretty good. I'm gonna try it out before adding the spindles on because how much I lowered it might be right where I want it. The sled had a 141 track on it that I ran for a year and used the same mounting holes with a extra 10 skid and suspension and soon as the track dug down a little it would sit on the tunnel and it would get stuck. Now with the 156 and 03 vertical escape 144 skid it doesn't do that anymore and just wants to do a wheelie and will flip over and it goes anywhere you point it and you can throw it on its side to side hill insanely easy like a brand new polaris and before it was like trying to flop a Sherman tank into its side so trying to side hill was not an option. Gonna go load it up and find some snow and see how it works now. So I will get on later and post an update
 
I understand what you're saying however the front arm of the rear skid shouldn't be mounted under the tunnel. Are you running extrovert drivers?
You have a ton of room between the track and the tunnel at the front arm location, moving it up would make a ton of difference on trenching and ride quality itself. If you've used a 144" skid with a 156" track the rails shouldn't come anywhere near the drivers at this point. So there should be no reason you can't move the front mount up 4-5" or so.
 
No with the longer skid I couldn't because it was up to the drivers, with the shorter skid that's used now when I use the normal mounting holes the skid is to short and cant get track tight. I put longer shocks on and moved my limiter straps up to the top mount and am going to test it today. I took it out last weekend and it was pretty good after adjusting everything so hopefully I have everything just right this time. How the front mounts are it is pretty close to what how the mounts are like for the rear suspension on the 03 vertical escape that the suspension and track came off of so just gotta fine tune everything to get it just how I like it I think.
 
Make sure the belt to sheave clearance is .015 in the primary clutch and gear down to 18/39 with 9 tooth drivers or 20/39 with 8 tooth drivers
realy helps the little triple get up on the pipe with out hesitation m2 cents
 
That's where you're going wrong, the front arm of the skid is different. Meaning you need to move your mounting locations. Hence why your short skid won't fit in a longer track....move the mounting location and you don't have a problem. We call that "setting the suspension back"
 
I didn't have to move them because they are exact to what they are on the vertical escape. How these mounts are and with the elkholm tunnel it has the same shape and sits how those vertical escape sit. I took it out half the day today and it isn't trenching anymore and is a blast to ride and is really easy to ride after I did the adjustments and swapped skis from a 2012 polaris pro 800, the skid sat it up more in front and gave it a better stance since they are much wider. After riding it today I would have to say I got the problem taken care of.
 
[emoji2357] You misses the point. I’m glad you got it working.
I’ve owned multiple Ekholm tunnels and skids over the years. Spent plenty of time in Larry’s shop for a lot of years. Cheers bud.


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I'm not missin the point, atleast I dont think I am. You say the front arm is to long, well the curvature of the tunnel of a vertical escape and how the mounts are on the elkholm tunnel are pretty close to a match and how the sled sits. I had my limiter straps down on the lowest hole so the skid hung way down and I moved it up to the highest mounting holes and no more trenching and rides alot better and what not now.
 
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