Zbroz 36" A-Arm Kit
- Thread starter goridedoo
- Start date
Z
Zbroz Racing
Well-known member
36" setting
Yes I would recommend a 0 to -1 camber and that is with the sled on the ground. Toe is a personal preference. 1/8" is pretty standard but straight is also good if you can get it right.
On the spindle mods for the 36" kits it pretty easy to do and the kits come with a template and photos to show what needs to be done. Its the worst with stock length 2013 shocks at 16.6" long. Zbroz builds there shocks to 16.375 which also has more up travel for optimal performance but the stock length shocks do work fine. The rubbing is at full droop when turning.
Yes I would recommend a 0 to -1 camber and that is with the sled on the ground. Toe is a personal preference. 1/8" is pretty standard but straight is also good if you can get it right.
On the spindle mods for the 36" kits it pretty easy to do and the kits come with a template and photos to show what needs to be done. Its the worst with stock length 2013 shocks at 16.6" long. Zbroz builds there shocks to 16.375 which also has more up travel for optimal performance but the stock length shocks do work fine. The rubbing is at full droop when turning.
Z
Zbroz Racing
Well-known member
Wow
That HCR looks wide when compared to the 36" stance. Guess 6.5" inches is a lot. Personally I would choose neither, I like the Cat with a 38" stance.
That HCR looks wide when compared to the 36" stance. Guess 6.5" inches is a lot. Personally I would choose neither, I like the Cat with a 38" stance.
I put the 36" a arms on my 13 pro. It is night and day difference from my 12 I had with stock arms. I love the feel of the narrow arms. The pro is easy to throw around stock but with these arms its even easier. It really shines in the trees. Had a couple buddies ride mine and now they are thinking about changing theirs out. Since you can't run the sway bar I also got the z broz dual rate spring kit to go with the stock shocks. I have 140 miles on it so far and am very pleased with them. As far as strength I know if I had my 12 stock a arms I would have a bent one but these look perfect yet. Can't say anything as far as the 13 stock arms as I took them off before I used them.
Hey sorry for hijacking the thread but I just have this problem 
I installed 36 inch zbroz a-arms on my 2015 sled, I set toe and I tried setting camber but even though the rod ends on the spindle are sticking out the same width (I measured by threads) right side spindle of the sled has about -6 degrees camber (left side 0 to -1). I started digging how is this even possible, checked air pressure in both side fox shocks and it was equal on both sides. Checked fork sag and on the right side it was about 1cm more sag. I am guessing the BD turbo on that side is so heavy to make the fox dip 1cm more
Now I am not sure what to do? set both rod ends equal or should I put more air pressure in right side fox to make the sled seat equal height on both sides?
I installed 36 inch zbroz a-arms on my 2015 sled, I set toe and I tried setting camber but even though the rod ends on the spindle are sticking out the same width (I measured by threads) right side spindle of the sled has about -6 degrees camber (left side 0 to -1). I started digging how is this even possible, checked air pressure in both side fox shocks and it was equal on both sides. Checked fork sag and on the right side it was about 1cm more sag. I am guessing the BD turbo on that side is so heavy to make the fox dip 1cm more
Now I am not sure what to do? set both rod ends equal or should I put more air pressure in right side fox to make the sled seat equal height on both sides?
Z
Zbroz Racing
Well-known member
Camber settings
I would suggest putting the sled on the ground and getting the sled level. Don't change air pressure just set them the same for now and manually level the sled as best you can. Then set your camber at about -1 or -2 degrees at ride height. Also what length are your air shocks? We recommend you run 16.250 eye to eye but you can squeeze 16.5" long shocks in but it will effect negative camber especially at full droop. Our spec for our Exit shock is 16.125 which is the perfect length for this front end. Some of the extra negative camber your seeing could be shock length and drop angle issues. Of course you can run the upper ball joint out as far as possible preferably at least one thread showing after the Nylock to be safe.
Hope this helps you.
I would suggest putting the sled on the ground and getting the sled level. Don't change air pressure just set them the same for now and manually level the sled as best you can. Then set your camber at about -1 or -2 degrees at ride height. Also what length are your air shocks? We recommend you run 16.250 eye to eye but you can squeeze 16.5" long shocks in but it will effect negative camber especially at full droop. Our spec for our Exit shock is 16.125 which is the perfect length for this front end. Some of the extra negative camber your seeing could be shock length and drop angle issues. Of course you can run the upper ball joint out as far as possible preferably at least one thread showing after the Nylock to be safe.
Hope this helps you.
Thank you for your response
How am I supposed to get the sled level if the sag on right side shock is 1 cm more than sag on the left side shock? I figured the reason for this discrepancy is that the turbo kit sits on the right side of the sled (more weight there), because the air pressure in both shocks is equal.
I have no idea what length are my fox shocks, how do I check this? But these are snowmobile specific fox float 3 evol r shocks, they should be correct length from the factory, right?
Z
Zbroz Racing
Well-known member
You are right to assume the turbo will add weight to the one side and this is likely the reason your seeing the 1cm difference. You can of course add a few pounds of air to that side to get the sled level just not sure how it will react on the snow. That is what on snow testing is for but you can get to that later. As far as your shock length you will need to remove the shock and then measure the total hole to hole or eye to eye position. While they should be correct length for whatever they were built for I doubt they were built for our 36" kit originally more than likely for the 39" stock width arms. Just something you should confirm by simply pulling a tape over them and double checking they are 16.5" or shorter. Any longer and you should be looking into having them shortened to be correct for the narrow front end.
it took me a little while as I was pretty occupied with other things, but this morning I removed both shocks from my sled and they are equal in size roughly 16.5 inch (42cm). Are you suggesting I should I just leave it as is, one side a little bit lower than the other?
Other question is if I can install the shocks back upside down, meaning that the air ports will be more easily accessible?
Other question is if I can install the shocks back upside down, meaning that the air ports will be more easily accessible?
Pics??
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pics of what? sled not being level?
I will make you pics but first need to put the shocks back on
Pics of the suspension and shocks installed... close ups of arms,shocks, ball-joints etc.
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With the Z-Broz 36 arms and 16.5" shocks.... you may be binding ball joints on one side and not the other from some variances in geometry or mfg tolerance.
If you suspend the front of the sled.... is the same difference still there??
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If you suspend the front of the sled.... is the same difference still there??
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Z
Zbroz Racing
Well-known member
36" Zbroz Racing A arms
I think what MTN Hoarse is saying is that there is variance even in the chassis. If you notice the bulk head of the Pro RMK has two halves and one side sits in front of the other and you will always have a slight castor difference from right to left, as for the sag issue its likely what you have pointed out which is the turbo and wight difference.
As for the shocks we still recommend running an internal spacer with the stock length shocks to be ideal for that front end. The length we recommend for the 36" arms is 16.250" eye to eye to have correct droop angle. With he longer length you will get some increased camber grain at droop and some increase wear on your ball joints because they will be maxed out. Lots of guys run like this but its not ideal or our preferred recommendation. Just depends on how picky you are on your front end set up.
Hope this makes sense to you.
I think what MTN Hoarse is saying is that there is variance even in the chassis. If you notice the bulk head of the Pro RMK has two halves and one side sits in front of the other and you will always have a slight castor difference from right to left, as for the sag issue its likely what you have pointed out which is the turbo and wight difference.
As for the shocks we still recommend running an internal spacer with the stock length shocks to be ideal for that front end. The length we recommend for the 36" arms is 16.250" eye to eye to have correct droop angle. With he longer length you will get some increased camber grain at droop and some increase wear on your ball joints because they will be maxed out. Lots of guys run like this but its not ideal or our preferred recommendation. Just depends on how picky you are on your front end set up.
Hope this makes sense to you.
I do not see any joints binding, please have a look at the pics
When I suspend sled with shocks removed I measured height from the ground to the marked point in blue, it was equal on both sides!
surprisingly when I put back the shocks and removed the motorbike stand (I put them upside down on purpose to be able to easily access the air ports) this blue measurement was still equal on both sides, I am unable to explain that, earlier I spent a lot of time trying to measure everything correctly and figure out why the sled is not level.
But I think there is still some problem, the camber on the left side spindle (left side when looking at the pic) is so much more than the other side, you can see that in the pics. The rods being only place to change camber are absolutely setup equally on both sides, the same amount of threads is sticking out and I measured with caliper tool as well
When I suspend sled with shocks removed I measured height from the ground to the marked point in blue, it was equal on both sides!
surprisingly when I put back the shocks and removed the motorbike stand (I put them upside down on purpose to be able to easily access the air ports) this blue measurement was still equal on both sides, I am unable to explain that, earlier I spent a lot of time trying to measure everything correctly and figure out why the sled is not level.
But I think there is still some problem, the camber on the left side spindle (left side when looking at the pic) is so much more than the other side, you can see that in the pics. The rods being only place to change camber are absolutely setup equally on both sides, the same amount of threads is sticking out and I measured with caliper tool as well
If we didn't have to deal with tolerance issues, my engineering job would be sooo easy. Your camber issue is the very reason why the camber is adjustable in the first place. If it was to be perfectly straight every time, we wouldn't need the adjustability. Just set your camber and go ride. Don't worry about it.
Love my Z-broz 36" arms
Love my Z-broz 36" arms
ttt
