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Xp and 07 Doo problems

I still dont get the "break in" belt theory?
Why dont you have to break in a drive belt on a car? Or any other type of machinery except a sled? A belt is a belt...I call BS!
Just my opinion!

Another way for BRP to say "well you didnt break it in right" LOL

Also whats with the break in period for a new sled for that matter. 300 Miles? get real. I bought my sled to ride that year...cripes if I have to spend the first 300 Miles "breaking it in" thenwhats the point? I will buy last years sled everytime then.THAT is a new sled then. One with say......400 Miles on it.
WHat a crock. What is Breaking in the motor going to do? Full throttle/half throttle if it isnt right it isnt right and it will break.
How do race car drivers put a motor together and race it immediatly? No "break in"
 
Page 181 of the 07 800R manual says use XP-S mineral injection oil.


Dealer says full sythetic or blend. I just laughed and bought the mineral. If it were a big problem, Doo would take the time and send the owners an update to the manual.

AGREED but it is quite obvious that doo dont give a crap! Thats why I am now running synthetic. I was told my my dealer they ran synthetic in every sled that left their shop and none back so far? So why hasnt DOO sent out a update saying "run synthetic"? CAUSE THEY DONT CARE! thats why
 
From Carlisle website, belt break in!!!

http://www.carlislesnowbelts.com/ultimax_XS_sleeve_installation_tips_062306.pdf

Ultimax XS by Carlisle
Congratulations! You’ve just purchased the finest snowmobile belt available. The Ultimax name has long been synonymous with quality and innovation. This Ultimax XS belt is covered by a one year warranty. You’ll find warranty information on the inside of this sleeve.
Snowmobile Belt Installation Tips
The belt on your snowmobile is an integral part of the drive system and can dramatically affect how the snowmobile performs and feels. By following the recommendations below you will achieve maximum performance and extend the life of the Ultimax XS belt.
1. Be sure you have the correct part number for your application.
2. Resist back-bending the belt as this produces undo stresses and will shorten belt life.
3. Proper clutch alignment is critical.
4. Install the belt making sure it sits within the sheaves correctly. Start by adjusting the secondary (driven) clutch so the cord line of the belt is flush with the outside circumference of the secondary. The XS belt may look like its riding high because of the large top cogs. Be sure to look at the cord line not the top of the belt.
Start by adjusting the secondary clutch so the cord line is flush with the outside circumference of the secondary.
5. Apply the brake and start the engine. Belt noise may be a sign of excessive belt tension caused by improper belt installation and further adjustment may be required. Belt tension can be reduced by lowering the belt in the secondary following the manufacturer’s instructions.
6. For improved performance every new belt needs to be seated to the clutch faces. To accomplish this, run the snowmobile for the first 30 miles at half throttle or less.
7. If for any reason the belt is removed from the snowmobile, it should be reinstalled in the same direction. An easy way to remember this is to always put the belt on so you can read the label on the belt.
8. Carlisle does not recommend the use of belt dressings.
9. The engine should be at normal operating temperature before riding to allow the belt to warm up.
10. Belt damage could occur if the snowmobile track is frozen to the ground and the belt is engaged. Break the track free before riding.
Following these simple steps will allow you to spend more time on the trails and less time in the shop

Good Luck

PS - I was pretty sure every aftermarket belt I have ever bought said to break in!!!
 
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I by no means like hearing about you guy's having problems with 11k sleds or even $500 sleds, but this whole belt break in thing is BS. It may extend the life of a belt when properly done(which I have started doing now) but it is not going to solve bad enginering or setup.

Very sorry to hear ski don't is crapping on you guy's again.

Michael
 
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I havn't ever broken in a belt in 36 years and never will....rediculous! Just something pushed by belt and sled mfr's as a reason to never HAVE to warranty a belt.
Blowing belts is caused by either improper belt,settup, alignment or contamination.
 
How Long Do Race Car Motors Last?

:confused:
I still dont get the "break in" belt theory?
Why dont you have to break in a drive belt on a car? Or any other type of machinery except a sled? A belt is a belt...I call BS!
Just my opinion!

Another way for BRP to say "well you didnt break it in right" LOL

Also whats with the break in period for a new sled for that matter. 300 Miles? get real. I bought my sled to ride that year...cripes if I have to spend the first 300 Miles "breaking it in" thenwhats the point? I will buy last years sled everytime then.THAT is a new sled then. One with say......400 Miles on it.
WHat a crock. What is Breaking in the motor going to do? Full throttle/half throttle if it isnt right it isnt right and it will break.
How do race car drivers put a motor together and race it immediatly? No "break in"

Cars don't have drive belts.:confused:
If you ever had a new car you could read in the owners manual about the breakin procedure.New bikes have break in procdure in owners manual also.
If you don't want to break it in proper don't, nobody really cares.They will warrenty your motor.
 
:confused:

Cars don't have drive belts.:confused:
If you ever had a new car you could read in the owners manual about the breakin procedure.New bikes have break in procdure in owners manual also.
If you don't want to break it in proper don't, nobody really cares.They will warrenty your motor.

What do you think turns every accessory in your car? Or for that matter ...ever heard of a timing belt?

The fact of the matter is....I should not have to break in shiet.
for instance:
I buy a brand new sled...YEAH! now I head out to ride...I have to break in my motor according to doo...well there goes the first 300 miles of riding.....during that time I blow 3 belts....ok 30 miles for each of those....thats 90 miles...then at the end of the break in period I put my "last" belt on and break it in correctly because I am tired of blowing belts. Now Im at 330 Miles? What the hell is the point?
Correct me if Im wrong

ALSO a little poll ...how many of you actually "break in" your motor and/or belts?
 
I must be really lucky.
I have never blown a belt in my life.
I have burned up a couple because of stupidity, like taking off with the brake on or being bogged down in really heavy snow but I have never "Blown" one.
My wife blew a belt on her old Phazer in heavy snow once but the clutches were giving us problems that day.

I wash the new ones with hot, soapy water and I keep my clutches clean and working well. I always clean the sheaves in the beginning of the season but other than a mid season clutch tear-down and clean that's it.

Aren't we, for the most part, using the same technology belts now that we used on our first sleds back 15 years or so? Those things were dogs compared to today's sleds.

I mean, what with the advances in Horse Power with the new sleds every year and expecting more and more performance out of our sleds maybe it's time for a serious advancement in drive belts?

Also I heard that the same company that makes the Doo belts makes many others so why is it only the XP belts are the problem?
I'm guessing improper sheave angle or deflection or set-up.
I will not trash Doo but this does seem to be their problem.
I hope they are warenteeing these for everyone and not sticking their customers with the bill at $120.00 a peice.
 
I agree with you scufty, the mechanic at my dealer has always told me "ride it how your going to ride it" Thats what I have done on my new sleds and have never blown a motor. Same thing with the belts, the only belt i have ever blown was when my chaincase piled up.
 
Nissan Miranos are CVT drives. There are more vehicles I just don't know which ones.

Last I saw, Cudney was having a sale one TRA 3 clutches at $300. If I was riding a red hot wonder(TRA 7) I would be swithing out to the TRA 3. Like someone said before it fixed there heat issues. And if it blows up then put the TRA 7 back on before you take it in for warranty. If BRP won't fix it do it yourself.
 
perhaps another thing to consider is the actual belt quality! I have seen many belts on the farm here, and we have seen how different brands seem to blow really easy or wear amazingly fast! for example, when you compare a "gates" brand belt to a "dayco" you will get completely different belt life out of each product if the belt is put under substantial stress.(gates is superior by the way).
I think what actually may have happened here is that ski-doo went to a cheap supplier for the belts for those machines. are there any other belt suppliers who can make the same belt? I am about to get a '07 Xrs, I hope I'm not dealing with this krap soon!

just my 00 cents.
 
The real question that needs addressed is how many folks take the time to break in the new belt correctly ?........

Or how many guy's buy a brand new $125.00 belt install the new belt and hammer the throttle rather the slowly break in the belt for the 1st 30 miles.......Or how many guy's install a new belt but don't clean the sheaves prior to installing the new belt.

OT
are you people that retarded???? here ya go, yes cleaned clutches, yes rode like a pu$$y from bottom of mountain to the top, yes to venting , the clutch is so hot you cant touch it. put snow on it and it melts and steams, get the point yet? its not a breakin problem, no oil on clutch there clean. ran polaris,cat and yamahas never ever had this many belt problems ever. face the facts boyz we have a problem!
 
You are telling me that you buy a sled for $11,500 dollars and have been sledding for years and you don't know how to clutch a sled, clean clutches, or align a belt?
Everyone i ride with never leaves the clutches stock because we know they don't show up to run worth a sh@@. If you are going to ride hard learn how to clutch for it!
 
You are telling me that you buy a sled for $11,500 dollars and have been sledding for years and you don't know how to clutch a sled, clean clutches, or align a belt?
Everyone i ride with never leaves the clutches stock because we know they don't show up to run worth a sh@@. If you are going to ride hard learn how to clutch for it!

Thats my point ...I buy a sled for 11500.00
and I have to play around getting the thing to run right... and not blow belts and not seize the motor and so on and so on!

I GET IT ALRIGHT....buy a used sled! Then at least I don't feel quite so jacked off when I have to fix the thing to make it run right....Ahmen
Johnny be bad
 
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You are telling me that you buy a sled for $11,500 dollars and have been sledding for years and you don't know how to clutch a sled, clean clutches, or align a belt?
Everyone i ride with never leaves the clutches stock because we know they don't show up to run worth a sh@@. If you are going to ride hard learn how to clutch for it!

sSHOULDN'T FRIGGIN HAVE TO TEAR IT APART & CLUTCH IT. 11,500 SHOULD GET YOU A CLUTCH & SLED THAT WORKS
 
Just mayyyybeeeee it's BRP at fault instead of the customer! Poor clutching, poor quality & working on your sled all the time was a 90's thing. Lots of us like to tinker to beat our buds but that should be an option not a requirement. JMO
 
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