Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

  • Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

Won't run!!!

bad box?

Do you have another attitude box to try? We have had 2 times were the box decided to hold one injector wide open and fill the case with fuel(makes a very scary knocking noise), replaced the box and they ran great. Never had one cut fuel but its possible. Also check for a ground from your power source, had one grounding on the boost gauge light and it did all sorts of weird stuff. haven't had anything sound quiet like that but theres some stuff to try.
 
Do you have another attitude box to try? We have had 2 times were the box decided to hold one injector wide open and fill the case with fuel(makes a very scary knocking noise), replaced the box and they ran great. Never had one cut fuel but its possible. Also check for a ground from your power source, had one grounding on the boost gauge light and it did all sorts of weird stuff. haven't had anything sound quiet like that but theres some stuff to try.

Don't have another box but I will see if I can get my hands on one also I am grounded to the boost light gauge as well will try switching that as well

thanks

flm staff
 
I never pulled plug wires to check like you did. I had to pull it like 10 times and sometimes it would try to start and sound like it was running on one cylinder and the display wouldn't come up and then all the sudden it would start and be at high idle (2500rpm's). I'm hoping a new throttle body plate and base gasket will fix my problems but I was told the TPS could also be out of wack. I'm sure the high idle was from the vacuum leak but I should know in a couple days when it's back together. If I still have the starting/running like it's on one cylinder problem then I will have the TPS checked. If you put a new throttle body plate in with your install it's probably not your problem but if it was the old one I would take a look at it.
 
Dis connect the attitude box and re connect.the stock wires to the injectors and see if it fires on both, then youcan eliminate the boots reeds etc. .as you said it ran good for a while
 
I never pulled plug wires to check like you did. I had to pull it like 10 times and sometimes it would try to start and sound like it was running on one cylinder and the display wouldn't come up and then all the sudden it would start and be at high idle (2500rpm's). I'm hoping a new throttle body plate and base gasket will fix my problems but I was told the TPS could also be out of wack. I'm sure the high idle was from the vacuum leak but I should know in a couple days when it's back together. If I still have the starting/running like it's on one cylinder problem then I will have the TPS checked. If you put a new throttle body plate in with your install it's probably not your problem but if it was the old one I would take a look at it.

Mine starts first or second pull everytime, but sometimes always runs on one cylinder then goes to high idle and have to shut it down cause it sounds awful. Maybe I have a small leak in the boots. I put in the support plate that comes with the kit, but never put in new boots, so this could be an issue.
 
Dis connect the attitude box and re connect.the stock wires to the injectors and see if it fires on both, then youcan eliminate the boots reeds etc. .as you said it ran good for a while

I think you are right here, and I have been thinking of doing that. So tomorrow I will switch the ground from the boost light to a different ground first and if no change, then I am going to reconnect the factory wires. This will then eliminate the things as you mentioned instead of chasing one at a time. If it runs good then the only thing is the attitude box, if it still runs bad then we can start looking at boots and injectors etc...

Thanks guys

FLM Staff
www.holomis.com
info@holomis.com
 
i have had a coupleof sled lose the fuel pressure through the oring and plug in the stock fuel regulaotor. sled will just run on one cylinder and when you hit the throtle it will die because the fuel is by passing the injector taking the least path of resistants. this leak will not show up on your fuel guages because everything happens to fast.

you can crank up the fuel presure and if this doesn't change anything that is your problem.

i will bet it is your box though. every box after about 30 seconds should stop flashing and sit on green. that is showing what fuel curcuit you are on. just un hook the box and run it stock. dont boost it up just run it in the shop and let us know what you find.

this is a super hard find here. but when you find it you will say that was so stupid :face-icon-small-sho
 
If you disconnect the box, I am not sure the sled will even start unless you reconnect the original injector wires together (remove the Attitude wiring).

We tried disconnecting the Attitude controller from a friends sled and leaving the Attitude wiring in place, it wouldn't start.

Brycter, that is good information for anyone owning a turbo kit. Thanks
 
Last edited:
If you disconnect the box, I am not sure the sled will even start unless you reconnect the original injector wires together (remove the Attitude wiring).

We tried disconnecting the Attitude controller from a friends sled and leaving the Attitude wiring in place, it wouldn't start.

Brycter, that is good information for anyone owning a turbo kit. Thanks

Yes once things settle down at the office this morning I will get onto trying a couple of the suggestions, and will more then likely put the factory wiring back together to see if it will run proper.

Thanks

FLM Staff
www.holomis.com
info@holomis.com
 
Ordered a new throttle body plate today. Looked it up and just called the part number in and the dealer said it has a different part number than it used to. Hopefully they made some improvements to the updated one.
 
Ordered a new throttle body plate today. Looked it up and just called the part number in and the dealer said it has a different part number than it used to. Hopefully they made some improvements to the updated one.
After having 2 TB boots delaminate on my D7T last year, I would highly suggest getting a support plate, and installing it w/your new boot. I also think there are a few companies making a full billet boot now. The new part # is just that, same part, new #. No improvements.
 
After having 2 TB boots delaminate on my D7T last year, I would highly suggest getting a support plate, and installing it w/your new boot. I also think there are a few companies making a full billet boot now. The new part # is just that, same part, new #. No improvements.

I have the support plate. Can't find any billet plates specifically for the 700. I'm not sure if the 7 and 8 would be the same. The stock ones are different part numbers.
 
If you still have the flashing lights on the attitude box it is not wired correctly. It knows if it is not. They will flash for a couple seconds then should go to steady green.
 
Ok just finished hooking it back up to stock and eliminated the attitude box. It is still running the exact same, on one cylinder!!!

The attitude box was wired correctly because we ran the sled perfectly fine until we brought it back in the shop and started re-assembling everything.

So we have now eliminated the box, what else can cause it to only run on one cylinder.

We have plenty of spark on both cylinders, while running we pull off the PTO spark plug boot and it keeps running, we then replace the PTO spark plug boot and then pull the MAG boot and of course it dies. So PTO cylinder is not working but has plenty of spark.

IMO it is not getting fuel to that cylinder, would you guys agree?

Can a leak in the boot make one cylinder not fire, I would think it would still fire just run like crap, but the PTO cylinder is not firing at all.

Again we have tons of fuel in the fuel rail. The only thing I can think of is that the injector is either not working or a wire between the ECU and the injector is broken. So we are going to get the buzz box and see if we can eliminate a broken wire as a problem.

Your thoughts would be appreciated as usual
 
Premium Features



Back
Top