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Won't run!!!

H

Holomis International

Well-known member
Hey Guys

Yesterday we finally got our 2007 D7 with the Silber turbo completed and we fired it up. We had 2 leaks on the pressure regulator, one where the gauge goes in and one where one of the big allen screws goes in. So we fixed those and checked everything else and it was all good. So we fired it up again checked everything looked good our A/F ratio was spot on at 14.7 at idle, so we took it for a little test ride up and down the feild out back. We didn't go to hard had the boost turned way down and just did a couple passes. Very happy with it so put it back in the shop to get ready to take it up to a local riding area with some elevation for testing. Came into the shop today and fired it up we now have a very very small fuel leak for the F/P gauge body which we now have to fix. But also we noticed the idle to be a bit high and it was kind of high yesterday as well so we decided to check the throttle cable and we felt it was a bit tight so using the adjuster up by the handle bars we just loosend it off a bit to make sure that it was allowing the throttle boddies to fully close.

So then we started it and it started fine but when we go to give it throttle it dies instantly, on occasion if you burp the throttle really quick you can get it to get some rpm's but then it goes into really high idle and just about shoots across the shop. So we put the black adjuster on the throttle back to where it was originally and now it starts just fine but a fine touch of the throttle and it is dead!!! We cannot get it to run beyond a very, very lumpy idle to the point where it won't light up the box or headlight anymore.

We have a feeling that it is not the throttle cable, and we have a hard time beleiving that it is the very very small fuel drip because it is still showing 42psi.

What are your suggestions?

Thanks

FLM Staff
www.holomis.com
info@holomis.com
 
you could try to disable the throttle safety switch. take apart your throttle block and clip the little brown wire that goes to the safety switch.
 
when I put 10 inch risers on my TD-8 I was close on the cable length and I adjusted the routing and then the overide switch got flakey so I just disconnected it ,,,2 seasons now!
 
you could try to disable the throttle safety switch. take apart your throttle block and clip the little brown wire that goes to the safety switch.

We may try that in a bit, the more we play with it the more it seems like a fuel issue. I am wondering if a peices of thread sealer might be in the FPR causing this problem.
 
We may try that in a bit, the more we play with it the more it seems like a fuel issue. I am wondering if a peices of thread sealer might be in the FPR causing this problem.

I dont think so because the rrfpr is constant pressure till it sees boost then it increses pressure ,whats your base pressure now?? and whats your green mode???? if you got some tape in there it would stop at the filter, on the other side it would flush back down the return and into the tank, try increasing the base pressure till it almost drowns (mabe 50-55psi) and see if it will take throttle first.
 
I dont think so because the rrfpr is constant pressure till it sees boost then it increses pressure ,whats your base pressure now?? and whats your green mode???? if you got some tape in there it would stop at the filter, on the other side it would flush back down the return and into the tank, try increasing the base pressure till it almost drowns (mabe 50-55psi) and see if it will take throttle first.

Of course the filter would pick it up, not sure where my heads at right now, 42psi is what it is currently at. I will increase PSI it's just odd because it ran really well yesterday, wiring maybe?
 
Watched your video, and you have something wired wrong, or a broken wiring, the box shouldnt flash green red at idle.

Check all your wiring connecteds again.

Justin
 
Watched your video, and you have something wired wrong, or a broken wiring, the box shouldnt flash green red at idle.

Check all your wiring connecteds again.

Justin

hi Justin

I think your right must have been when putting the panels back on and caught a wire or something.

Did you get your deck installed?

Will check on wiring and post results
 
Last edited:
Watched your video, and you have something wired wrong, or a broken wiring, the box shouldnt flash green red at idle.

Check all your wiring connecteds again.

Justin

and it sound like its running on one Cylinder gotta be wiring and Mine is one green at idle not flashing!!!
 
Update

Ok I am back trying to figure this thing out today. I now took the spark plug wires off and trimmed them making sure they have a good contact on each end of the wire, put everything back together and fired it up, it went to high idle, I pulled the mag side plug wire off and the machine died, so I put it back on fired it up again and pulled the PTO side off and the machine stayed running at high idle, so this confirms running on one cylinder. Now I just have to find out what has changed since the first test ride when it ran fine. Now I guess I need to pull the attitude wiring apart and see if it is right, also I may try and swap CDI packs to see if this is the problem.
 
Ok CDI packs work getting spark on both plugs, so this means must not be getting fuel in the PTO cylinder, on to checking box injector wiring.
 
Ok so this is where we are:

Keep in mind the first time we fired this machine up after the install everything was working fine (less the couple of fuel leaks) we ran it a couple of passes and it was great then we put it back in the shop and the next day it ran like crap.

Here is the issue, only firing on the MAG cylinder and revving quite high at idle

1. We checked all the wiring and the connections are good and are to the correct wires (would have to be if we ran the machine)

2. Checked both CDI packs and both are providing spark

3. Pulled the Fuel rail off and there is plenty of fuel there

After checking everything we started the sled and it revved high, we then moved the intercooler back and forth putting pressure one way and then the other on the throttle body boots. When doing this it lowered the RPM.

To us that means there is a leak in the throttle body connections, however that still doesn't answer why the machine is only running on one cylinder. Not sure what else to eliminate, maybe pull the turbo out and run it back to stock!!!
 
Haven't checked the pistons yet but have a hard time thinking it's that since a/f was perfect egts were perfect. And we really didn't go hard at all. I am going to swap injectors and rule that out. We have tons of spark on the dead cylinder. We may have to open up the jug and see if it the piston.

Thanks for the input always apreciate everyones help on this site

flm staff
 
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