Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

  • Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

whos on a 133 or 136/pix please

im on a 96 rmk 600 with a 133 it my first REAL season on it but will it make it i ride with turbo revs m1000s and dragons with 162 trackes or longer will my 133 keep me up i think im ok on the power but. if you have pics of your 133 or 136 in the hills please post
 
You can't keep up with those sleds if the snow is deep and fresh. On set up snow if the terrain isn't too steep you may be able to follow some tracks or pick an easier route to get to where you want to be. Anyway here is a couple of pictures of 136 inch tracked sleds. As you can see it is possible to make it to the top and also to get stuck too.View attachment 88393View attachment 88392
 
im on a 96 rmk 600 with a 133 it my first REAL season on it but will it make it i ride with turbo revs m1000s and dragons with 162 trackes or longer will my 133 keep me up i think im ok on the power but. if you have pics of your 133 or 136 in the hills please post

No matter what you do to it, in fresh deep powder conditions those sleds will be able to go places fairly easily that you would have one heck of a time trying to negotiate.

I really don't think lowering the suspension mounts will help deep snow performance. It will increase the attack angle of the track. One of things that makes the xtra 12 such a trencher is the steep attack angle. Also, if you lower the skid you have to lower the back more than the front to maintain the same ski pressure you have now (unless you raise the front too). That will make the front end scoop snow when you get in deep powder.

What size lugs do you have on your track? I have 97 sks (now my wife's sled) that had that same skid. I really don't think there's anything short of changing tracks (longer track and/or taller lugs/paddles) that will significantly increase its deep snow capabilities. I was originally going to extend the 133 skid but I got such a good deal on a 144 skid that I sold the xtra 10 for more than I paid for the xtra lite 144. I also sold a 121 track and a 133 track for about the same as I paid for two used 144 tracks. When you're doing mods on a budget it's all about buying at the end of the season and during the off season, and then selling at the beginning of the season.
 
i think the lugs are 1 3/4 but maybe 2 so the drop kit wont help that much. just a longer track. im on a budget and i spent all i have this year to get the sled so if i could make the brackets i would use them but if it will put the front down then no i wont do them is there any riding tips to help me ride easyer and keep up most those sleds have 151 tracks on them but on ski-doo has a 144 and it rides a wheelie every were will just a 141 do the trick or a 151 will my motor push the 151
 
With a 1.75 or 2 inch track you have a significant advantage over the sks I rode last year with 1" lugs. We also had a 121 xtra 12 and we switched back and forth. My wife kept burying the short track so basically she rode the short track on groomed trails and I rode it any time there was any snow to be negociated. The 133 is significantly better in deep snow than a short track. We never got the sks stuck in 2 ft of powder or less. I have even made it through deeper than that with it but I had to keep it pinned. I found that if I stopped in the wrong place I'd have to dig it out to get it moving again. A couple times I had to have other sleds break trail in front of me to get it out. This is in off trail meadows that I could not even consider taking the xtra 12 short track. Also, as I mentioned I only had a 1" track. Taller lugs/paddles will help quite a bit.
 
With a 1.75 or 2 inch track you have a significant advantage over the sks I rode last year with 1" lugs. We also had a 121 xtra 12 and we switched back and forth. My wife kept burying the short track so basically she rode the short track on groomed trails and I rode it any time there was any snow to be negociated. The 133 is significantly better in deep snow than a short track. We never got the sks stuck in 2 ft of powder or less. I have even made it through deeper than that with it but I had to keep it pinned. I found that if I stopped in the wrong place I'd have to dig it out to get it moving again. A couple times I had to have other sleds break trail in front of me to get it out. This is in off trail meadows that I could not even consider taking the xtra 12 short track. Also, as I mentioned I only had a 1" track. Taller lugs/paddles will help quite a bit.

so my 1 3/4 lugs will help and i know the back end is dif. on the rmk it is strighter but idk how much advantige this givis me so i will have to be careful were i stop or else have someone in front of me to make it. i ride up in heber ut. were its deep and steep i think we had like 4 feet in the hills last year those were the good days on the o7 rev xpackage 800 with a 159 it did most of the work for you.
 
When the snow is deep, ride where other sleds have broken trail, and pick n choose your spots of untracked powder when your speed is sufficient to keep you floating (kind of like water skiing, as long as you stay moving you stay on top). After digging it out a few times you'll learn how to pick your lines and you'll know what you can or can't negociate.

Getting stuck is no big deal. Even the super long track mountain sleds get stuck sometimes. They just get stuck in deeper snow and are more work to dig out.
 
so the gas is my friend dont let him go and i should be fine?

Well, that's a bit over-simplified, but for a lot of situations that's what you need to do. It it starts bogging and wanting to sink down while you're climbing a hill, turn out before it comes to a complete stop and buries. If you do get stuck you need to back out of the throttle before it starts just burying in deeper.
 
Just ride.....

The one thing that will help you develop into a better rider is to ride. Read alot, watch alot, think about what you are doing and how to make the sled work for you. Play with throwing your weight around, push yourself to grow your skills. I have always ridden a smaller sled, the underdog if you will, and have been able to follow most anybody that is sane. Always be careful, be prepared for the worst scenario and it won't get the best of you. Don't try to be the hero, just have fun within the abilities of the sled. Know that it is not going to keep up with sleds that are running two to three times the horsepower that you are, and ride it accordingly. You will go far, and be a better rider if you can finesse a smaller machine to do things the big ones are doing. Get lots of experience........God speed to you, have a good season, and enjoy the snow.
 
well thanx 4 all the help guys i love snowest i think im ready 4 this season hopfuly it will have a 144 next year but the 133 will do 4 this season so any detailed tips on riding help like when to gas it when boondocking and when not to and how much throttle on a sidehill or when counter turn the skis were to have my feet and what foot goes first? just a few more tips needed but yet again thanx
 
There are some things you can do for little or no cost that will help in mountain/deep powder conditions.

Remove the sway bar. I just did this to mine and my wife's xlts. Could barely notice the difference on the trails, and what little power I could find up high I can see that's it's going to be a big improvement.

Raise the handlebars so you can stand up and still comfortably have control of the sled. Clamp on mountain bars are pretty cheap on ebay.

Check the top/front mounting location of your front shock (rear suspension) and make sure it's in the front/bottom location like the one in this picture.

shocklocation.jpg
 
I didn't have to extend any wires. For 3 inches of extension all I had to do was add a throttle cable extension. For 5 inches I had to change to a longer break line and re-route the wires a bit but they reached without having to extend any of them.
 
Premium Features



Back
Top