I'm not starting with you at all. I enjoy your insight. I think you answer your own food for thought by speaking to the "pooling" and smoke with the higher end synthetics. Weird cause my dragon did the same thing with Redline and the Redline tech I spoke with told me NOT to run it until after break-in. I'm not digging Redline its a top notch oil IMO. I'm going with Legend because it's like a hybrid mineral that I feel will burn more completely. I think some of the synthetics are too good and over time maybe 1500-2500 range your gonna lose compression because of blow-by, no failure , no oil related issues but maybe too slippery and left over oil from a non complete burn.
which injector oil are you running
- Thread starter bubba94
- Start date
I'm not starting with you at all. I enjoy your insight. I think you answer your own food for thought by speaking to the "pooling" and smoke with the higher end synthetics. Weird cause my dragon did the same thing with Redline and the Redline tech I spoke with told me NOT to run it until after break-in. I'm not digging Redline its a top notch oil IMO. I'm going with Legend because it's like a hybrid mineral that I feel will burn more completely. I think some of the synthetics are too good and over time maybe 1500-2500 range your gonna lose compression because of blow-by, no failure , no oil related issues but maybe too slippery and left over oil from a non complete burn.
I'm not that familiar with the cfi engines but they still have oil premixed with the fuel via the fuel pump do they not? The oil injection to the bearings is specifically for the bearings and the oil for the cylinders is mixed in with the fuel before injection.
This is not true, they can pull samples all day long but they cannot deny warranty because you did not buy their oil. You are free to use any oil you please as long as it meets standards.
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rmscustom
Well-known member
Yep, this is true.
The oil does not touch fuel until it moves into the boost-transfer port and has fuel sprayed on it in the port just prior to entering the cylinder.
The oil goes through the bearing and also sprayed into the crankcase at the lower end bearing... Atomized and spread through the crankcase and then sucked up the transfer ports.
The oil goes through the bearing and also sprayed into the crankcase at the lower end bearing... Atomized and spread through the crankcase and then sucked up the transfer ports.
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gman086
Well-known member
Well GOOD in him as you are not supposed to use ANY synthetic for break in! The reason is simple - synthetics create less friction so the rings don't seat as fast from the crosshatching in the cylinders. If you ran synthtics, they will STILL seat but it will take longer to do so... that is why you aren't supposed to run synthetics for break in. It is not critical. And, FWIW, both Carl's and SLP (and two other very well known shops that I won't mention as they have not confirmed) use Redline exclusively and they see the insides of these motors a time or two, LOL! That's good enough for me. I've personally had very good luck with Amsoil Interceptor in my Doos also. As for synthetics washing off engine parts easier... BS! Most high end modern synthetics contain coupling agents that help to coat and protect metal parts as much as or more than standard petroleum/mineral oil offerings. And yeah, my background is chemistry. Case in point... go over to mtbr.com and you'll see that everyone is switching over to Mobil 1 syn oil for their fork stanchion splash oil because IT STICKS TO THE STANCHIONS BETTER than standard petroleum oil!!! Viscosity differences can fool the eye into thinking it is "running off" but the oil is there!
Have FUN!
G MAN
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I always use the blue polaris (semi-synthetic I think it is) for break-in than go to the gold. But I always still mix the blue with my fuel in the tank (1 ounce per gallon) as I am not sure how well the synthetic gold will stay mixed with the fuel when it sits for a day or more.
Gman,
I disagree with you on this. Respectfully.
Here is a simple test.
Take some straight mineral based oil and put it in a spray bottle... Redline as well.
Then on two separate pieces of glass, give them a good spray.
Then stand them up...
Return the next day and see which oil has moved the most.
Even the manufacturers say the same thing. I had a good conversation with one of the Redline engineers a couple of years back, he said the same thing... I hope to stop by their plant on the way to the bay area this week for Turkey-day for a chat on this topic of dry crankcases and lubrication.
I'm an engineer, but not a Chemist... but there are differences between Pour-point, viscosity and tenacity.... More tenacious oils provide more off-use corrosion protection.
Seems there is a compromise with all the oils... For me, the Legend oils look promising.... I've been a faithful Redline user for a while now... Faithfully fog my motors... I might change up this year to the ZX-2SR.
my 2 cents.
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R44guy
Well-known member
MH, your take on the syn. vs mineral oil is very similar with the independent engine builder that Polaris engineering consults with. Also from what i recall the ves gold had also been reformulated a few years back to help meet higher emission standards for the EPA certification.
I believe that is the whole reason they got away from mineral oil that worked just fine for years to the VES crap. They've reformulated it 4 times I believe? VES, VES II, VES Gold, now we have VES Gold plus. Polaris doesn't have a ton of 4-stroke sales to offset their emissions. They have no choice but to run their 2-strokes leaner and leaner. Seems like we've seen a lot more lower end failures with Polaris motors in recent years since they went leaner and ran VES synthetic oil. JMO
For the past two years on my 11 Pro, I have used VES Gold Plus. My power valves were just plain filthy when inspected(about every 750 miles). My buddy has been running ZX-2SR in his 09 M8 since new. He recently pulled the powervalves out for the first time and they were clean as a whistle with well over 2000 miles on them. So I'm switching to Legend this year. (Plus it smells good). Anyone in Washington State need some VES Gold Plus? I have 7 gals for sale.
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gman086
Well-known member
Let us know what he says! How have your motors looked with Redline?
Here's a good read, especially concerning ash content.
http://www.sea-doo.net/techarticles/oil/oil.htm
Have FUN!
G MAN
Redline
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HOTRODREDNECK
Well-known member
legend for me the past 3 years. if i run out and cant get it soon enough i will run ves gold. it took me 1 1/2 years to get my riding partners (who were on skidoo's) to switch over from skidoo's oil (which is the most horrible smelling oil i've ever been around, actually gives me a headache) to lengend. i run it in everything from my leaf blower to my jet ski
Legends zx2 SR
Over 3, 000 mi. Still never had to clean valves or change sparkplugs.
Plus it smells good.
Ur gear doesn't stink after each ride.
My girlfriend used to mbitch about how I stunk up the house when I brought my gear in to dry out. Not anymore.
That is not y I'm using it but those r some of the extra benefits.
Over 3, 000 mi. Still never had to clean valves or change sparkplugs.
Plus it smells good.
Ur gear doesn't stink after each ride.
My girlfriend used to mbitch about how I stunk up the house when I brought my gear in to dry out. Not anymore.
That is not y I'm using it but those r some of the extra benefits.
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Oil?
Legends ZX2 SR, from Day 1, no issues.
Legends ZX2 SR, from Day 1, no issues.
Legends zx2 SR
Over 3, 000 mi. Still never had to clean valves or change sparkplugs.
Plus it smells good.
Ur gear doesn't stink after each ride.
My girlfriend used to mbitch about how I stunk up the house when I brought my gear in to dry out. Not anymore.
That is not y I'm using it but those r some of the extra benefits.
Oh sure, we all know who wears the pants in that family. And you think she "lets" you go sledding .....BWAAAHAAHAHA
Mystik Full Synthetic....If it is good enough for Levi it is good enough for me.
