I have a 03 800 sks and having overheating issues what side is the water pump on and does anybody have any pic. I'm kind of new when it comes to working on sleds.
Water pump
- Thread starter snow-king
- Start date
Take the recoil cover off and there should be a belt under that. That runs your water pump. I believe that runs your oil pump too so if your using oil then chances are your belt is fine. Wouldn't hurt to check and just replace the belt while in there. Thermostat?
do you have to take half the motor a part to put in a new water pump?
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By the questions you ask.
It sounds like you should take your sled to a dealer or a friend that has the ability to follow the black hoses to the location of in & out and that would be the logical spot for the water pump.
1/2 the motor apart ???????? Yeah the water pump is inbetween the two cylinders............ Or inbetween the crankcase halves ........
Dude I don't mean to be a Smart a$$ but those are sum stupid questions.
Put away the X-box and think just a little.
Dan
It sounds like you should take your sled to a dealer or a friend that has the ability to follow the black hoses to the location of in & out and that would be the logical spot for the water pump.
1/2 the motor apart ???????? Yeah the water pump is inbetween the two cylinders............ Or inbetween the crankcase halves ........
Dude I don't mean to be a Smart a$$ but those are sum stupid questions.
Put away the X-box and think just a little.
Dan
I printed a diagram of all the parts of the cooling system off the web. And took a look at all the parts of the water pump and took it a part the inside of the impeller was melted. I'm going to replace the pump belt, impeller and thermostat. Dan you smart a** 
some poeple like trying to help other people and then there are poeple like you. O I don't play x-box.
some poeple like trying to help other people and then there are poeple like you. O I don't play x-box.
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Snow king,I printed a diagram of all the parts of the cooling system off the web. And took a look at all the parts of the water pump and took it a part the inside of the impeller was melted. I'm going to replace the pump belt, impeller and thermostat. Dan you smart a**
Next time, just p.m. me and I'll be glad to help,
There are no stupid questions, I.M.H.O.
Sharing info and helping others is what this site is suppose to be about.
Better check the water pump bearing too. That is pretty important to replace if it is not in tip top shape. Of course that then requires a new water pump seal kit and a full water pump rebuild. Better diagnose why the impellar melted. Maybe the nylon lock nut came loose and allowed the impellar to touch the housing, which then spun the axle inside of the now frozen impellar. Try some thread lock when you reinstall a new nylon lock nut.
C
clutch man
Well-known member
I printed a diagram of all the parts of the cooling system off the web. And took a look at all the parts of the water pump and took it a part the inside of the impeller was melted. I'm going to replace the pump belt, impeller and thermostat. Dan you smart a**
Repalce all!!! parts in the water PUMP, BEARINGS,WATER PUMP SEAL, HOUSING SEAL, (THE SEAL THAT IS ON THE WATER PUMP HOUSING!! AND GOES TO THE CRANK CASE) INSTALL WATER PUMP HOUSING WITH CRANK CASE SEALER! , REPLACE SHAFT IF ANY DAMAGE IS ON THE END TO THE OIL PUMP DRIVE, TAKE THE WATER PUMP ASEMBLY TO A GOOD POLARIS SHOP TO HAVE THE SHAFT AND THE WATER PUMP SEAL IN STALLED!!!! NEEDS A TOOL TO INSTALL THE PUMP SEAL.
DO NOT GO CHEAP HERE REPLACE ALL BEARINGS AND SEALS!
SHAFT IF NEEADED.
email me or pm me
Gordon Shields
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Here is the basics for reassembling the guts of the water pump:
1. You install the new bearing on the shaft first.
2. Then you reinstall the bearing/shaft assembly into the housing.
3. Then you install the pulley on the shaft, making sure you have enough clearance so it does not rub against the housing. Check the spin. There should be some slight resistance to spinning.
4. Then you oil up the shaft where the seal contacts it.
5. Then you press the water pump seal assembly on the shaft real carefully. You might try a large socket that clears the shaft and pushes evenly on all edges of the seal. If you crack the reddish fiberglass rings inside the seal, it's toast.
6. Then you install the small washer, impellar, large washer and lock nut onto the shaft. Better to use a little thread lock on the lock nut.
7. Then you install the cover over the water pump impellar with a new gasket.
Now you quickly test it by plugging up three out of the four tube holes on the assembled housing with your finger tips and the palm of your hands. And blow on the fourth hole. Better have a pretty good seal at this point with no air escaping out the tiny drain hole on the bottom of the water pump. If you hear air escaping, you get to take everything apart and reset the seal, if you haven't cracked it yet. You might want to buy two seals, if you haven't done his before. The seal will tighten up a little once it has been put on the engine and run a bit. If coolant is dripping out of this hole after the first 20 minutes of running the engine, you didn't get a good enough seal on the seal assembly.
1. You install the new bearing on the shaft first.
2. Then you reinstall the bearing/shaft assembly into the housing.
3. Then you install the pulley on the shaft, making sure you have enough clearance so it does not rub against the housing. Check the spin. There should be some slight resistance to spinning.
4. Then you oil up the shaft where the seal contacts it.
5. Then you press the water pump seal assembly on the shaft real carefully. You might try a large socket that clears the shaft and pushes evenly on all edges of the seal. If you crack the reddish fiberglass rings inside the seal, it's toast.
6. Then you install the small washer, impellar, large washer and lock nut onto the shaft. Better to use a little thread lock on the lock nut.
7. Then you install the cover over the water pump impellar with a new gasket.
Now you quickly test it by plugging up three out of the four tube holes on the assembled housing with your finger tips and the palm of your hands. And blow on the fourth hole. Better have a pretty good seal at this point with no air escaping out the tiny drain hole on the bottom of the water pump. If you hear air escaping, you get to take everything apart and reset the seal, if you haven't cracked it yet. You might want to buy two seals, if you haven't done his before. The seal will tighten up a little once it has been put on the engine and run a bit. If coolant is dripping out of this hole after the first 20 minutes of running the engine, you didn't get a good enough seal on the seal assembly.
Remember Dan you were a FNG once to,and if it werent for the new ones YOU wouldnt have anything to do...
I would try to get a service manual. If i'm thinken right polaris has a special tool to pull and install this seal but it can be done with a socket.
As far as pulling the water pump/recoil asembly it almost as easy to just pull the motor depending what kind of tools you have considering you have to pull the stator to get the housin off. I would also check your t-stat to make sure it is working good since some how the motor got hot enough to melt the impeller. Replace your water pump belt too or go big and get a PSI water pump belt kit. Even though its built by PSI it a quility piece and the belt is way better.
As far as pulling the water pump/recoil asembly it almost as easy to just pull the motor depending what kind of tools you have considering you have to pull the stator to get the housin off. I would also check your t-stat to make sure it is working good since some how the motor got hot enough to melt the impeller. Replace your water pump belt too or go big and get a PSI water pump belt kit. Even though its built by PSI it a quility piece and the belt is way better.
V
volcano buster
Well-known member
700 and 800 big block (which the 2003 had), has the water pump in front of the recoil opposite the oil pump, driven off the same belt. The 600 small block (also in 2003) had the pump on the front driven off the center of the crank. The small block version comes off without removing the stator but can be tight because it sits down below the exhaust and starting into the bulkhead. The big block version needs the piece of aluminum that the recoil bolts to removed, and to do so, the stator needs to come off, bringing the crank seal with it. This is best done with the motor lifted up out of the bulkhead as things get tight. You could drain the coolant and simply lift and block the motor so you can get to things while leaving the oil, fuel, coolant, electrical and throttle/choke cables intact. Remember to break the nut that holds the stator on loose before the motor is unbolted or it will be a booger to hold still. Also, don't allow the mag cover puller bolts to extend into the puller holes more than about 1/4" total, or you risk taking out the stator windings/connectors.
I printed a diagram of all the parts of the cooling system off the web. And took a look at all the parts of the water pump and took it a part the inside of the impeller was melted. I'm going to replace the pump belt, impeller and thermostat. Dan you smart a**
LOL!!!!!!
Just havin alittle fun!!! sometimes a guys gotta keep it real !!! Sled_guy would be correct !!!
You would be correct Slash925, calm down everyone I was just playin arround!!
I think.........99.9% of time I try my best to offer good useable information.
GEEEZ!!!!
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