Cutting issues
After 250 mi the cutting stopped on my buddys sled?
After 250 mi the cutting stopped on my buddys sled?
Unhappy 800D owner
- Thread starter KUINY
- Start date
It didn't stop. It is like cancer, it's just in submission!
To bypass the deto sensor I used to take it off the head and mount to the stator housing, that should keep it from sensing any deto. Dont think you can simply unplug it.
I beleive and someone correct me if Im wrong, that a 1k ohm resistor from radio shack overrides the temp sensor also. I may have said earlier to do that for the deto, but it is the temp sensor. To override the temp sensor you can also plug the hole and tape it to the coolant hose, no way it will get too hot out in the open but the hose keeps it warm, done that also.
The idea of the clutching being wrong could actually be correct. Polaris in an attempt to increase fuel economy and emissions. Defuels the engine or even cuts off fuel on de accell. The ecu decides what de accell is. Running to light of wieghts can fool the ecu into thinking you are de accellerating at times when you would think you are not. Right around 6000 rpm is when the ex valves want to start opening. This throws another change that is happening at that time. Some guys are running the 11 series wieghts and less pri spring and none of these guys have had any cutting out issues. Cutting out becuase of snowinjestion is another problem all together.
Cutting out stopped
Finnally gat my rails back. I sealed up the air box tight. I removed the head light assembly and installed more foam also siliconed all holes, no matter how small, there is a ton of them. Also tapped up front of the air box ( they are two pieces). I also found that the rubber hose from the solenoid that controls your VES valves that goes down into the nose cone is to long. For what ever reason the nose cone is filling up with snow and when I pulled the hose out it had ice in it. I only put the hose in about 1/2 an inch. I will be looking at siliconing the the nose cone and front side panels as these seem to be letting snow into the engine comparment as well. All I can say is that the sled does not stumble any were now and rocks.
Finnally gat my rails back. I sealed up the air box tight. I removed the head light assembly and installed more foam also siliconed all holes, no matter how small, there is a ton of them. Also tapped up front of the air box ( they are two pieces). I also found that the rubber hose from the solenoid that controls your VES valves that goes down into the nose cone is to long. For what ever reason the nose cone is filling up with snow and when I pulled the hose out it had ice in it. I only put the hose in about 1/2 an inch. I will be looking at siliconing the the nose cone and front side panels as these seem to be letting snow into the engine comparment as well. All I can say is that the sled does not stumble any were now and rocks.
S
Scotford
Member
I agree with you all.... 800 dragon comes stock with... 10-62(weight)... 140/330(spring)..... Blk/Pur (160/240) Spring....56/42-.36 helix...gearing 20:41-76.... Got a buddie changed his helix... backshift is better.. and awsome power through the mid range and top..... Even my local dealers are saying the same thing..... it's all clutch boys..... Overthinking somethings is very commen...I do it every day..... some things are just simple.... oh but the plugging of the holes above the plenmub very important.....
Anyways just my 2cents!!!!
T
trench
Member
Whats normal with dragons....
What's normal with dragons...
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I have both the 07 700 which I ran last year.This year the 800 ,both have very much the same traits.
Clutch clunk normal.( rev to forward )
Running up the trail @ same rpm will foul one plug and run on one cylinder, making it seem like a bog , if you don't vary the throtle it will not clean or reset the fuel trim and never rev any higher.( this is normal ) get use to it.
Polaris has not got the elevation changes , rpm mapping correct.
Remember at certian rpm's combo elevation and temp. it is safer to be on the rich side to save your motor these are hiperformance 2 strokes.
Have you heard of any of these motor burn down ?(NOT ME)
Track tention need's to be watched on your new sled, any ratcheting tighten up that track. To loose will rob power . ( 8's run scratchers all the time up and down the trail. )
Snow getting into the air box ? Polaris on my 800 forgot to cut out a small tab , right by the right side hood vent, making the speedo cover ride 3/8 '' high and allowing powder to go straight in to the air box. The main cause, just take it off and you will see where it needs to be cut. ( I could compare with my 07 700 ) other areas are the head light ajusting knob.
Clutching in my opinion the 800 is over clutched for steep hills ( meaning stock to much back shifting causing heat and lose of power to the track) possible belt failure.
Adding a pipe will take care of that ( acually you will need more weight)
When I removed my stock 62 gram weight's they weighed as such 63, 62.7,62.2 kinda' scarry , maybe if they all were 62g's the 8 would have been clutched right on.
Now after all that , I am in no way putting the sleds down , just sharing my opinions and findings so far .These sleds Ripppppppp.....
What's normal with dragons...
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I have both the 07 700 which I ran last year.This year the 800 ,both have very much the same traits.
Clutch clunk normal.( rev to forward )
Running up the trail @ same rpm will foul one plug and run on one cylinder, making it seem like a bog , if you don't vary the throtle it will not clean or reset the fuel trim and never rev any higher.( this is normal ) get use to it.
Polaris has not got the elevation changes , rpm mapping correct.
Remember at certian rpm's combo elevation and temp. it is safer to be on the rich side to save your motor these are hiperformance 2 strokes.
Have you heard of any of these motor burn down ?(NOT ME)
Track tention need's to be watched on your new sled, any ratcheting tighten up that track. To loose will rob power . ( 8's run scratchers all the time up and down the trail. )
Snow getting into the air box ? Polaris on my 800 forgot to cut out a small tab , right by the right side hood vent, making the speedo cover ride 3/8 '' high and allowing powder to go straight in to the air box. The main cause, just take it off and you will see where it needs to be cut. ( I could compare with my 07 700 ) other areas are the head light ajusting knob.
Clutching in my opinion the 800 is over clutched for steep hills ( meaning stock to much back shifting causing heat and lose of power to the track) possible belt failure.
Adding a pipe will take care of that ( acually you will need more weight)
When I removed my stock 62 gram weight's they weighed as such 63, 62.7,62.2 kinda' scarry , maybe if they all were 62g's the 8 would have been clutched right on.
Now after all that , I am in no way putting the sleds down , just sharing my opinions and findings so far .These sleds Ripppppppp.....
Mine is not an 800 but a 08 600. First the voltage reg., then the stator and now I just got it back with a brand new complete wire harness, CDI and coil. There was a bare spot in the harness found right next to the clutch guard.
first year sled i learned my lesson al ong time ago dont be someones r&d dep it only aggrivates you not them they are just happy to sell you some thing then they start planning for next years mistake
I think that the problem probably lies in something very basic.ECU management is very new to toys but but has been around for 25+ years in the automotive industry. Sensors rarely fail, basic issues like compression,fuel pressure, fuel volume,spark and air are more likey. Has anyone checked the reeds on the affected sleds? If the sensors are in question then a digital graphing meter such as the snap-on vantage could be used to check the parameters and compared to factory specs.[Thats if the problem can be recreated in the shop on a stand]
Please allow a few random thoughts to leak out of my head. No bashing, I'll save that energy for the next XP catastrophe. If the problem is with the ECU mapping there's something that might trick the motor into acting right. It seems this bog is right around 6-7k rpm. It's within that rpm range that a couple of things take place. The motor transitions from one injector to two. The other is the exhaust valves open. Disconnecting the VES solenoid and using springs to alter valve opening might allow some improved driveability. Simply pull the vacuum lines off the valve bodies and link both with a short hose. Try the unit with the stock pink springs intalled. The valves will no doubt open sooner in the rpm range. If that doesn't help, install a stiffer spring like a yellow/green. That will keep the valves closed longer. I use valve springs to fine tune my 660HO. Yellow/green springs are installed at low altitude. Pink springs are installed at high altitude to compensate for low cylinder pressure.
