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Unhappy 800D owner

Good question, not sure what temp sensor bypass you are talking about.
I am running the slp single pipe , it only has a resistor that connects in line from the egt. prob in the pipe ,to the ecu. It is only a tempary solution to trick the ecu in thinking the egt. is cooler than it realy is so the ecu will add more fuel. Slp will have another solution shortly I believe.

OK I thought it was the temp sensor just got my pipe yesterday and didnt have time to look at it closely. I wonder still has anyone with an SLP single running this resistor had this problem?
 
Talked to a guy this afternoon that said the problem is the clutch weights in the primary. The computer gives fuel based on fuel map, engine rpm and throttle position sensor, and a couple other things. Say your sled came like mine did with 62 gram weights for 6000-8000 ft elevation, and you head to the hills. You offload the sled in the parking lot at 1000-2000 ft and give er up the trail. Now with the extra power the engine makes at lower elevations, it takes less fuel to get the engine to spin at say 6500 rpm, especially without the heavier weights that are supposed to be in there at that altitude to keep things in check by loading the engine heavier. So what happens is the engine sees that it is getting to 6500 rpm at say 1/3 throttle instead of 1/2 throttle and the computer puts the engine into a funk because the throttle position sensor says the engine should be running one way and the rpm says another and the computer doesn't compensate as it goes outside of the parameters of the fuel map. That is why most of us (myself included) are having trouble only on the trail rides up and down and are fine up top where everything is balanced as it should be. People that have there sleds set up for the elevation they ride consistently or that dont do heavy elevation changes (5000+ ft ?) are not running into cutting out trouble.

It also explains why the problems are starting after the break in is finishing up as the engine is running a lot stronger and the changes are more pronounced. When it is still a little on the weak side out of the box it is not building power fast enough to get outside the parameters with the light weights so it will run fine until the engine starts to finish its break in and get peppier.

I have not tested this out yet but he said he knows a few others that were having the same problems and switching to heavier weights at low altitudes cleared the cutting out problem out immediately.

This individual works for one of the Polaris dealers in Alberta and has always been on top of stuff when I brought issues to him.

The downside is that if you put in the heavier weights needed for down low it may not run right up top once you get up the mountain, so I'm not sure what the solution is.... maybe a comprimise and run somewhere in the middle (5000ft? weights) for those of us who offload at 1000ft and top out at 8000+?

Lemme know if this works, wont be heading to the mountains for at least a few more weeks.


This makes no sense to me because how is the sled suppose to know about load or no load. What about running down a trail at 8,000 ft and running in 2ft of pow at 8,000 ft. It will take WOT to hit 70mph in 2ft of fresh at 8K but will only take 1/2 throttle to hit 70 mph on the trail at 8K? This is BS and clutch weights shouldn't matter.

Sensors do not think, the ECM thinks. This is on the of the strangest theories I have ever heard. If this was true why would not track length affect it or wet snow vs dry snow or grass vs snow, what about gearing or a worn belt. I call BS in capitol letters and for some stupid reason if it is true than Pol really screwed up.:eek:

THINK ABOUT IT!! IT MAKES NO SENSE!!!!!:confused:


-Seeder
 
AK....i feel your pain, but piece of crap? c'mon. if you read any of the threads, it is about a 10 minute fix to stop the ingestion of snow. should you have too mess with it? no. they had the same problem last year. chickensh*t stuff IMO. the kind of stuff that is easy for them to fix if they are serious about attention to detail. i completely agree with you there. but one thing this forum does for us, is allow us to share info and solve problems a lot quicker. it is a simple procedure to stop the snow ingestion. get a caulk tube of clear 100% silicone. seal around the headlight, and the windshield "wings". black duct tape over your headlight adjuster. that will take care most of your troubles. last year one of the first days i rode, was in DEEP powder and it ran AWFUL. some was my jetting, lots was the snow ingestion. correct jetting and sealing it up has made it the most incredible sled i have ridden. these sleds are really great.
 
My sled was also doing this cutting out. Sled would pull hard sometimes then go into a limp mode at 6400 RPM. It also seemed to have a limp mode just of engagement RPM. Once you burped the throttle a couple of times, and away it went again. Took it back to Dealer and a Crank Position Code was up. The stator tested OK, but that does not mean that it is OK all the time. They have ordered a new stator and if it happens again it will be changed. I have not had a chance to ride it again because I did a jump and bent the rails and are waiting for new ones. Polaris does not make rail stiffiners but BRP (Skidoo) does and they bolt right on, with a couple of holes drilled. Just an idea if any one beats there sled like I do.
 
My sled was also doing this cutting out. Sled would pull hard sometimes then go into a limp mode at 6400 RPM. It also seemed to have a limp mode just of engagement RPM. Once you burped the throttle a couple of times, and away it went again. Took it back to Dealer and a Crank Position Code was up. The stator tested OK, but that does not mean that it is OK all the time. They have ordered a new stator and if it happens again it will be changed. I have not had a chance to ride it again because I did a jump and bent the rails and are waiting for new ones. Polaris does not make rail stiffiners but BRP (Skidoo) does and they bolt right on, with a couple of holes drilled. Just an idea if any one beats there sled like I do.

Holtz makes rail stiffeners for Polaris.
 
AKRMK, you may have 2 different problems here. See what is happening after you can keep the sled from ingesting water.

Take the time to seal around the headlight with some silicone or a thicker foam strip, do this from the inside of the hood once the panel is pulled off, you will see the gaps in there. I also covered a few other holes in there with duct tape to keep snow from getting in. Also adjust the lights to the height you like and put a strip of duct tape over the wheel to close off those holes as a quick fix for that. This should keep your airbox dry. I did this and then rode 3 days of bottomless, over the helmet, dream fluff and had not a single snowflake in there.

This is definitely a problem on my sled, I am going to do like above!!:beer;:beer;
 
This makes no sense to me because how is the sled suppose to know about load or no load. What about running down a trail at 8,000 ft and running in 2ft of pow at 8,000 ft. It will take WOT to hit 70mph in 2ft of fresh at 8K but will only take 1/2 throttle to hit 70 mph on the trail at 8K? This is BS and clutch weights shouldn't matter.

Sensors do not think, the ECM thinks. This is on the of the strangest theories I have ever heard. If this was true why would not track length affect it or wet snow vs dry snow or grass vs snow, what about gearing or a worn belt. I call BS in capitol letters and for some stupid reason if it is true than Pol really screwed up.:eek:

THINK ABOUT IT!! IT MAKES NO SENSE!!!!!:confused:


-Seeder


We'll take under consideration what the guy who bought a XP said. Ok, consideration is over...........
 
AK, I know this sucks about snow injestion. My "06 660 was sealed and has proven itself in over the hood snow. Polaris has had this hood intake system since the "06. Why they haven't fixed the snow injestion problem is beyond me. The design is just plain stupid and ineffective. The design depends on perfect panel alignment and line workers applying the closed cell foam perfectly or it'll leak. What they need to do is spend a little more money and design a plastic, tubular intake tract to eliminate the cracks. Damn this **** pisses me off. The solution is so simple.
 
well...picked sled up from dealers last night for stiffing the rear shocks...that helped a bunch...thicker wt oil and stock pressure.... so I paid attention when we left the truck...ran flawless on the trail within 2 minutes of powder on the hood she started acting up..upon opening the hood very fine mist of moisture in the airbox....dried it with a rag and let the machine idle for about 15 minutes..ran better but still light sputtering... back in the powder for 2 hrs..and sputtering got so bad it would barely run...airbox was soaked inside....wiped it dry again and let it idle again ..helped alot but didnt stop it all...so am going to dry it in the shop and pull the shelf out( dealer said he sealed it up already) seems like he missed something......and also found this...makes interesting reading:Humidity-Induced Voltage Shift on MEMS Pressure Sensors
Journal of Electronic Packaging -- December 2003 -- Volume 125, Issue 4, pp. 470-474

J. Albert Chiou, Mem. ASME; Steven Chen, and Jinbao Jiao

Motorola Inc., Deer Park, IL 60010
(Received May 2001; revised June 2003)

The pressure sensor is one of the major applications of microelectromechanical systems (MEMS). An absolute pressure sensor utilizes anodic bonding to create a vacuum cavity between the silicon diaphragm and glass substrate. The manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensing elements from a new supplier have exhibited negative voltage shifts after exposure to humidity. A hypothesis has been established that poor anodic bonding causes an angstrom-level gap between the silicon substrate and glass. Once moisture enters the gap in a vapor form and condenses as water droplets, surface tension can induce a piezoresistive stress effect that causes an unacceptable voltage shift. Finite element analyses were performed to simulate the phenomenon and the results correlated well with experimental observations.

©2003 ASME
 
Glad they put that in language we all can understand! Engineering can be confusing.
The largest gap I've seen so far is where the shelf meets the hood below the speedo cable. Usually a large gap that just happens to be above the upper hood vent. When the intakes plug with powder this becomes a problem as the engine creates huge suction looking for air. My headlight had a decent seal but there are lots of other spots so take a flashlight or trouble light & put it inside the intake to look for leaks.
 
No luck

Fixed the wire to the oil sensor-no luck. Unplugged the gauges-no luck. Unplugged the hand warmer connectors-no luck. Unplugged the DET-no luck. Good idea, Freak--when the DET is unplugged do I need to close the loop (like the Edge temp sensor)? Anyway, it is still cutting out. Feel like a sensor is telling the puter to do this.

I understand different settings from year to year but if the weights are throwing things out of specs then what about last years Dragon? Or what if you have the correct weights in for your elevation and you head down a hard-packed, steep hill at 1/3 or 1/2 throttle? Under this theory it should cut out, right?

Going to by-pass the temp sensor next.
 
14eer,

the guy that gave me this info said there was some trouble with last years as well, same problem, just not as common.

Are your weights correct for your elevation according to the spec sheet that came with the sled? Just curious because if you are trying things one at a time you might as well give this a try if they are not right, swapping weights only takes 15 mins or so. I am just looking for someone to say if this has any effect or not on the cutting out problem. I am not able to test this until next weekend at the earliest.
 
800 dragons:air box full of snow, screwed up injectors, same horse as 700 dragon

did the polaris r&d guys that ride out of pinedale wy seal up the airbox with silacone? what's up ? there are dealers all over colorado wth 800 dragons waiting for polaris to fix the problems! s-doos got trouble with 07 xrs motors again and the 08 xp's belts, broken shafts, would you by a cycle,truck,with problems like the snonmobile has every year?
 
800 dragons:air box full of snow, screwed up injectors, same horse as 700 dragon

did the polaris r&d guys that ride out of pinedale wy seal up the airbox with silacone? what's up ? there are dealers all over colorado wth 800 dragons waiting for polaris to fix the problems! s-doos got trouble with 07 xrs motors again and the 08 xp's belts, broken shafts, would you by a cycle,truck,with problems like the snonmobiles has every year?
 
I have 300 miles on my D8 163. It has not stuttered one time. Half of my time has been spent in the deep powder and I have not touched the airbox. I think you guys may be trying to fix the wrong problem. If that air box was a problem in the deep stuff I would know it, I had snow rolling over the hood all day today. The sleds having problems were the ones with crappy aftermarket mesh hoods. I have never owned a sled that came perfect out of the box, however this is one of the very best ever. I expected to make changes so I was not dissapointed. I've heard the ski doos are perfect out of the box (LOL), maybe some of you guys would be happier on DOO-TALK.
 
My dragon is doing the same thing. Started around mile 220. Now it has 400 miles on it. If I ride straight in 1' of powder at full throttle, it runs great sometimes. Other times it bogs and i blip the throttle and cleans up. Sometimes it takes a few tries. This weekend, I noticed that around 6400 rpms, it would bog. It should of been running close to 7000. as i slowly ease off the throttle, it cleans back up. Going into the dealer tonite for the first time. Sled does rock beside this problem. Also, in AK, the elevation change in Petersville is not as big as maybe Colorado, but 500' in elevation is the difference from the truck to the riding area. So for us, I dont think elevation has anything to do with it. Feels like it bogs in the 6k range. Hope this is readable.
 
So, after two weeks with this cutting out problem what is Polaris doing to correct it. I have a D8 163 and haven't had a problem yet, but the people that are don't seem to be getting it fixed. I would hope it's resolved soon for those that have the cutting out problems.
 
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