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Twisted Turbo Thread Only-Good Idea?

P

projectprox

New member
Wouldn't mind seeing a thread for info. only on twisted kits. No long discussions or who's going to beat who with a stick. Just questions and answers for those who are running a twisted setup. Pictures, questions, ideas, clutching, tuning, what not to do. Anything that benefits the user. Just finished putting together 08' r/g kit. Live in MN so anything more I can learn before we head west would be great. Hopefully can get as much info about twisted kits all in one spot without having to look around. I know Shain will anwer any questions, but hate to bother with some of the little items and everyone who has run his kit has way more experience than myself and probably others as well. Thanks, hope this works.

To start: What 02 readings are you getting in the various rpm ranges?
What premix rations are most guys running?
Are there any precautions if you tip your sled to one side or roll it over to get unstuck?
 
- 40:1 fuel to oil....buy one of those dirtbike premix cups, fill up a 5 gallon fuel tank with fuel and add 20:1...i like the clear jugs that have level lines that read 1,2,3,4,5 gals

- im sure the attitude numbers he gave you are rich, so take a hard pull and watch the O2 guage ( it should read rich or 10.5 to 12ish), your are looking for 12.5 at WOT and the RPMs are toped out, another higher is lean and anything lower is rich.....as this sensor is measuring oxygen not fuel. So start lowering the green blue mode still you get near 12.5ish, the sled needs to reach full RPM and settle out for a second before the O2 reading is a good number. and the fuel box has buttons that are very sinsative, so lightly push each button or it will act as if you pushed the button 2-3 times

- roll over....nope the oil tank on this setup is sweet, wont puke oil

- these arctic cat sleds can be hard to start (sometimes)...so, never give it throttle when you pull the rope, let it idle for atleast a full minute after it starts, if you give it full throttle when the sled is cold it will somtimes die and take forever to start.....the temp sensor mod switch greatly helps when its cold, this mod acts just like a choke
 
Twisted

If and when you do trip the temp. sensor. Turn the temp. sensor bypass switch off(do not give it gas) pull it over till it pops, usually 1-3 pulls. Then turn the temp. sensor bypass switch back on hold it wide open and it should start first or second pull every time.
 
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temp sensor

Thanks for info.
Does temp sensor have power returning only when it gets hot. Or does the ecu read resistance from the sensor similar to a temp. gauge?
 
Or does the ecu read resistance from the sensor similar to a temp. gauge?

yes, use an ohm meter or whatever ya got to make sure the wiring and on/off label is where you want it....this switch will act like a choke for a carb engine when the switch is in a state that disconnects the coninuity of the switch wiring look.....and i like the call "off" the state where the switch is closed aka not really there:beer;
 
That is pretty close to optimum RPM, up to 7500 is good but you still have more boost and tuning to play with yet. Should be good on clutching side.
 
If and when you do trip the temp. sensor. Turn the switch off(do not give it gas) pull it over till it pops, usually 1-3 pulls. Then turn the switch back on hold it wide open and it should start first or second pull every time.

After any time running on boost my sled will not idle and this ^^^ is what what i have to do to or it will never start. Shain told me to run higher green and yellow settings but this didnt make any difference, it just seems to lean out and die at idle causing more then one close encounter with the trees. Theres no exhaust leaks and no visible problems i could find. I also seems i have to run alot higher fuel settings to keep the AF down. I think i have blue green at 8 and red at 6.5 at 8 pounds of boost and 40 psi fuel. I have no idea where to start so any help would be great as i dont want to bother shain through the holidays.

Also when i start the sled the number 5 on the attitude box lights up yellow before it goes through the start up sequence, is this some sort of trouble code.


Thanks
 
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If and when you do trip the temp. sensor. Turn the switch off(do not give it gas) pull it over till it pops, usually 1-3 pulls. Then turn the switch back on hold it wide open and it should start first or second pull every time.

ill try this next time, lord knows it will happen again:rolleyes:

and what do you mean by "pop"??

do you do anything to the temp bypass switch?
 
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After any time running on boost my sled will not idle and this ^^^ is what what i have to do to or it will never start. Shain told me to run higher green and yellow settings but this didnt make any difference, it just seems to lean out and die at idle causing more then one close encounter with the trees. Theres no exhaust leaks and no visible problems i could find. I also seems i have to run alot higher fuel settings to keep the AF down. I think i have blue green at 8 and read at 6.5 at 8 pounds of boost and 40 psi fuel. I have no idea where to start so any help would be great as i dont want to bother shain through the hollidays.

Also with i start the sled the number 5 on the additude box lights up yellow before it goes through the start up sequence, is this some sort of trouble code.


Thanks

for what its worth, my sled would die at idle when my fuel pump was on its way out.....took me 4 freaking rides last year to figure it out, was not happy

observe the fuel pressure next time
 
ill try this next time, lord knows it will happen again:rolleyes:

and what do you mean by "pop"??

do you do anything to the temp bypass switch?

By "pop" I mean it will fire then immediately die(with temp. bypass switch in off position). That is when I know it's time to turn the bypass switch to "on" and hold it wide open to start(usually 1 to 2 pulls it'll start every time). I do notice that sometimes it will start just fine after I have been running it real hard and it will bog(when I first go), but if I turn the temp. bypass switch off with it running and then right back on it clears it right up.
 
By "pop" I mean it will fire then immediately die(with temp. bypass switch in off position). That is when I know it's time to turn the bypass switch to "on" and hold it wide open to start(usually 1 to 2 pulls it'll start every time). I do notice that sometimes it will start just fine after I have been running it real hard and it will bog(when I first go), but if I turn the temp. bypass switch off with it running and then right back on it clears it right up.

thats some good info and makes me think of the way things played out on a few "wont start" attempts

another question:
- some folks get "off" and "on" backwards with the way i see it, i call "on" the poisition when the switch is open and the temp sensor is basically unpluged.....and i obvously call "off" the position where the switch is not really there and the temp sensor is acting normal, if you will

so, is this the way you see it, or are you backwards from what im sayin?

once again, sweet info:beer;
 
Race gas turbo TM 1000

What fuel box # are people running at 9000 ft on m 1000 race gas
 
I do notice that sometimes it will start just fine after I have been running it real hard and it will bog(when I first go), but if I turn the temp. bypass switch off with it running and then right back on it clears it right up.

When you first start a 1000 and go it will run lean until pipe sensor heats back up. You can see it on AFR guage and then it goes to normal. So don't just pull rope and pin it. That switch is a good bypass for that though.
 
I didn't know it should so i never checked. How much should it rise, and what does it mean when the 5 lights up before the start sequence on the attitude box, no one else's box does this.

I dont know what that means mine dose not do that either ( may be you need your box re flashed.
 
thats some good info and makes me think of the way things played out on a few "wont start" attempts

another question:
- some folks get "off" and "on" backwards with the way i see it, i call "on" the poisition when the switch is open and the temp sensor is basically unpluged.....and i obvously call "off" the position where the switch is not really there and the temp sensor is acting normal, if you will

so, is this the way you see it, or are you backwards from what im sayin?

once again, sweet info:beer;

Yes by the way you are explaining it here we are backwards from each other. When I say "off" I mean temp. by pass switch in "off" position the same as if the original connection unplugged. I have a switch which I purchased from Cutler that has oem plugs, which goes in between the orginal connection. My switch is always in the "on" position meaning connection "connected".
 
- 40:1 fuel to oil....buy one of those dirtbike premix cups, fill up a 5 gallon fuel tank with fuel and add 20:1...i like the clear jugs that have level lines that read 1,2,3,4,5 gals

Why are you filling 20:1? Does your measuring jug not have a 40:1 measurement for 5 gallons?
 
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