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TRS Clutch Kit Components

Shimming primary for proper belt to sheave on whatever clutching you run is imperative. I would advise this before any additional performance modification are added. If your not putting the power down properly stock, why add power that you already have?

This is the difference between a sled that "runs" and a sled that makes people go "WOW WHAT DOES HE HAVE DONE TO THAT THING?" The difference between a sled with .030" belt to sheave vs is .060" is noticeable to the rider. The difference of .030 and .120" is noticeable to an onlooker, it feels like taking off a belt with 1000 miles and putting on a fresh one.

Also, the quality and "snap" in your clutching is SOOO much better when everything is tight and in spec. Its really hard to describe how much better one all tight and aligned runs vs loose and improper setups.
 
Shimming primary for proper belt to sheave on whatever clutching you run is imperative. I would advise this before any additional performance modification are added. If your not putting the power down properly stock, why add power that you already have?

This is the difference between a sled that "runs" and a sled that makes people go "WOW WHAT DOES HE HAVE DONE TO THAT THING?" The difference between a sled with .030" belt to sheave vs is .060" is noticeable to the rider. The difference of .030 and .120" is noticeable to an onlooker, it feels like taking off a belt with 1000 miles and putting on a fresh one.

Also, the quality and "snap" in your clutching is SOOO much better when everything is tight and in spec. Its really hard to describe how much better one all tight and aligned runs vs loose and improper setups.
Ok, doing all this calibration is fine with a new belt, but what about belt wear? Does one have to replace the belt more often? Than once you have a collection of used belts, reshim the spider again?
 
I mean, if you were a super freak! Like anything though your hitting the point of diminishing returns for sure with shimming for used belts.

The point is, if your already starting loose, your starting with a handicap and getting worse as belts wear. Why not start and have peak performance fade into slightly less awesome. instead of starting at OK and heading to bad. Also what you will find with proper setup is less heat and belt wear as well, so you pretty much just amplify the amount of time you have a very very good running sled. What happens is once you start to get a taste for good setup, you realize what you've been missing and that is not just some thing that makes some sleds work a lot better then others.
 
Ok, doing all this calibration is fine with a new belt, but what about belt wear? Does one have to replace the belt more often? Than once you have a collection of used belts, reshim the spider again?


No, belt life will improve exponentially and the belt life increase we yield no collection of belts for re-reshimming of the spider to use up.

Wheelhouse nailed it guys. Take his advice.
 
awesome dand I just spend the week in eagle river my wife's grand parents live there. We are from washington state. Check out the snowmobile museum!
Yes sir, it’s pretty awesome.
I’ve been on a pit crew for a few years. It’s a good time.
 
I’ll pick them up on the 14th.

You are getting the Team run around. I wish someone would invent better clutches(easy peasy), run a bigger, better business and put these clowns out of business. The whole 1000 different helix angles thing is such a scam. Every team clutch has been a failure. It won’t be long before their clutches seriously injure someone. They just suck all the way around and every which way.

Happy derailment. Train is back on the tracks now. I feel better now.

The above are my beliefs.
 
Are these weights the same as the discontinued lightning weights that are used in the long TRS clutching thread? The reason I ask is I’m currently running the lightning weights and it would be nice to be able to pick up a set of your weights in a different weight and be able to interchange them with the lightning weights without having to change belt to sheave or anything.
 
Are these weights the same as the discontinued lightning weights that are used in the long TRS clutching thread? The reason I ask is I’m currently running the lightning weights and it would be nice to be able to pick up a set of your weights in a different weight and be able to interchange them with the lightning weights without having to change belt to sheave or anything.
They will replace the Lightning weight.

9C063168-AF8E-4771-8F91-A3B2EB7A926F.jpeg
 
Finally got to use my TRS clutching and have to admit it is impressive.
I was .141” out on alignment.
I am stock 850 with a BMP can and PRO gears.
Riding east coast @ 1500-3500ft.
TRS 72g weights spin to 8600 vs stock 72 @8450, so will need to add ...
Engagement is smooth, and it pulls like a freight train with instant back shift.
I can easily pull away from stock 850’s Doo and poo (will try and post a video of this) on the trail.
I might remove the Gear Down as it has so much track speed, I seemed to trench more in cold loose snow conditions.
Thanks Tony.
 
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