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TKILLC or C3 Belt drive?

Powderforlife907

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Looking at getting a new belt drive this year. Having trouble deciding between TKILLC and C3 belt drive. I definitely like the simplicity of TKILLC kit but I havent heard much about them.
 
My money is going to the C3, the TKI llc. one looks as heavy as the stock HYVO gears and chain case. Plus I've been dealing with Kevin at C3 about machining my custom 9 Tooth drivers and custom Sprockets to get the gear ratios (as low as 3:1) to complement the larger drivers. JMO
 
Actually our kit is 1.5 lbs heavier than the 2013 stock setup (its closer to 1lb but would rather round up), that includes the tensioner. Our gears are almost the same weight as the factory ratios. Our top gear is lighter and our bottom gear is 2 oz heavier.

Our full kit actually weighs the same as a 2011/2012 top gear bottom gear and chain.

Thanks for considering our product.
 
I have a TKI belt drive, along with their Doo belt drive at the shop. They look like great quality and I like the addition of a tensioner for the Polaris. I have installed the Doo and it went together perfect and simple, keeps the speedo sensor also.
 
Good to have to get together with the manufacturer to design what you need...

PsychoSled Industries installed two of the TKI DynoDrive retrofit kits today... One with a 2 tooth lower ratio on a stock sled and one with OEM ratio for a Boondocker boosted sled.

It's hard to believe anyone would balk at an added 1lb-2oz addition to a sled, when it will save multiple $200+ belt replacements, and failures out in the field... as well as the fact that you will be running billet gears versus cast aluminum. Oh yeah, lets not forget the ability to adjust belt tension... as opposed to "tight as hell, hope it stretches a bit".

The best part is that you can carry an extra belt in your pack if you wish... our belts aren't branded "do not bend", and they cost less than 1/2 an OEM belt. We doubt you will need an extra belt, but if you do, you can carry it with you, and you'll actually be able to change it out in the boondocks without special tools!

Your wish was our command Mr. Brookwell... ENJOY!

Pics to follow...
 
I balked at the added bulk of the TKI before he actually disclosed it was indeed heavier. The TKI is a good product at a good price point. I wanted less bulk and less weight than stock, so I went with C3. Yes it does cost a bit more, but he also has been very cooperative at making me custom sprockets and drivers and other things for my builds. It is never a bad thing to have a good machine shop in your pocket. Good season to you all regardless of which brand you choose.
 
Pictures..

Kit is $699.95

Replacement belts are $80 for Poo Pro's

Multiple upper gear options available.

photo 10sm.jpg photo 6sm.jpg photo 13sm.jpg
 
The main question for me is if they are more reliable then the Polaris belt drive? Broke 3 of those last season on my stock 155" and I start too doubt if I´m gonna keep the sled or not.
Second thing is there any brake in period on these belts?
 
The main question for me is if they are more reliable then the Polaris belt drive? Broke 3 of those last season on my stock 155" and I start too doubt if I´m gonna keep the sled or not.
Second thing is there any brake in period on these belts?

Both of the kits use the standard off the shelf Gates Carbon belt, yes they are much more durable and will handle a higher heat load, as well as generating less heat themselves due to the better tooth profile additionally there is no break in required.

Regardless if you buy one of these kits. If you are having issues with the stock QD, you should take a good long look at it and make sure that the identified problem areas are perfect on yours.

They are:
1) Clutch side plain end drive shaft bearing. Stub wears undersized as some were not a press fit as they should have been.
2) Upper QD bearing clamped tight between the jack shaft shoulder and the brake disk hub / sprocket stack. If not it will take out the bearing, shaft, and brake disk.
3) Check that the top of the bearing plate is tight to the tunnel. If not it will exacerbate number 2. Remount the plate, I add two bolts at the top where the two rivets currently go thru the tunnel.
4) Sprockets are in good shape, no sharp edges and run true with the shaft, and are torqued to the proper value.

The same items should be verified when fitting either kit.
 
Tightness of ALL fasteners is paramount... One sled we did an install on had both OEM sprocket bolts loose - and they were previously untouched. This particular sled has just over 200 miles.


Sent from Moto's iPharce 5
PsychoSled.com - Got snow?
 
There has apparently been a bit of confusion between the 11-12 PRO kits, and the 13-14 PRO kits in this thread. I hope we can easily clear this up.

The 11-12 kits are actually about 2 lbs lighter than the OEM chaincase setup of the same years. It stands to reason the belt kit setup would be lighter than a chaincase.

The 13-14 kits (that add a belt tension adjuster, billet gears, and a much better belt) are the kits that weigh about 1lb 2-3oz more than the 13-14 OEM belt setup of the same years. We added a couple of parts - naturally it will weigh a bit more than OEM; But it still weighs less than an OEM chaincase setup.

To answer Ballofixen's question: Of course. There is always a belt "break-in" period with ANY belt... do any of us follow it? Not really... but if you do, your belt might last a bit longer.

With the Gates belts, they have a blue nylon coating on the lug face to help with break-in lubrication, and seating. This coating will wear off during use, and that is not a concern. Once the coating is gone, you should no longer need to concern yourself with break-in.

We will be posting pic's of the 11-12 kits in a bit.



***
 
Any pictures of the TKILLC belt drive retrofit for the 11/12 models?

Here is a pictoral overview of the '11-'12 kit...

The '11-12 kit is $799, x-tra belts are $80, multiple gearing options are available.

Kit is 2 lbs lighter than OEM chaincase setup.

The installed kit pic is a bit hard to see, but that hairdryer was bound to take the spotlight...

photo 1sm.jpg photo 2sm.jpg photo 3sm.jpg
 
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Is there a website I can get more information on?

I'd like to go down to about a 2.5 ratio on a '13 Pro, is that possible with the TKI kit?
 
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