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Still Love the Axys Chassis

Ah gotcha so you bypassed the stock cooling and use the mtntk cooler only. Makes sense. Have any pics?
Kinda getting it all back together again. Made a new tail peice
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I had found an old Skidoo cooler I plumbed down the middle and chopped the tunnel on. Works well, but it requires a flap for groomed trails and spring snow as the shorter tunnel does not catch the amount of snow a standard tunnel catches.
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I had found an old Skidoo cooler I plumbed down the middle and chopped the tunnel on. Works well, but it requires a flap for groomed trails and spring snow as the shorter tunnel does not catch the amount of snow a standard tunnel catches.
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Hey cool thanks for the pics. I ordered a short Rev cooler to install as supplement when i do a tapered chop (hoping to maintain flow through original cooler channels via solidworks and a talented tig friend). Could you tell me how easily the middle section of tunnel sheet metal comes out? looks like the original hardened rivets are still in the extrusion. Did you grind those rivets out under then pop the sheet off? is it glued in pretty well too?
 
Hey cool thanks for the pics. I ordered a short Rev cooler to install as supplement when i do a tapered chop (hoping to maintain flow through original cooler channels via solidworks and a talented tig friend). Could you tell me how easily the middle section of tunnel sheet metal comes out? looks like the original hardened rivets are still in the extrusion. Did you grind those rivets out under then pop the sheet off? is it glued in pretty well too?
The center is thin, and I just cut along the inside edge with a skillsaw to keep the stock coolers untouched, incase I need to revert back to them. I trimmed down the 'wings' off the Doo cooler and drilled and rivet along the stock cooler rivet lines. Being the top of the cooler sits higher than the tunnel, I used some weather stripping to raise the fuel tank up.

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The center is thin, and I just cut along the inside edge with a skillsaw to keep the stock coolers untouched, incase I need to revert back to them. I trimmed down the 'wings' off the Doo cooler and drilled and rivet along the stock cooler rivet lines. Being the top of the cooler sits higher than the tunnel, I used some weather stripping to raise the fuel tank up.
All great information. Thanks for the additional pics as well. So looks like there is enough room up front (between the fuel tank and air intake) for the new cooler and fittings to be installed a bit behind the stock coolant bungs without shifting the tank back. That correct? Is there more room than you needed?
 
I had found an old Skidoo cooler I plumbed down the middle and chopped the tunnel on. Works well, but it requires a flap for groomed trails and spring snow as the shorter tunnel does not catch the amount of snow a standard tunnel catches.
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Looking at your later pics ...you could run coolant down OEM cooler and pass through brp cooler on the return ...that's what we've done on 4 and they run great

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Looking at your later pics ...you could run coolant down OEM cooler and pass through brp cooler on the return ...that's what we've done on 4 and they run great

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He would have to do some sort of crossover at the back of the OEM cooler since it's chopped and not welded
 
All great information. Thanks for the additional pics as well. So looks like there is enough room up front (between the fuel tank and air intake) for the new cooler and fittings to be installed a bit behind the stock coolant bungs without shifting the tank back. That correct? Is there more room than you needed?
It is real tight on my fittings into the cooler. I kept the fuel tank in stock position, but I had to heat and beat the bottom of fuel tank in 1/2" to make some room. So I didn't have an issue with braking a fitting off. Can't really tell from the photo here, but it's a tight fit getting my airbox in.

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Looking at your later pics ...you could run coolant down OEM cooler and pass through brp cooler on the return ...that's what we've done on 4 and they run great

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As mentioned above, I am not running the stock crossover on the rear. The Doo cooler was from a 154". I do have the bulk head cooler from the Doo to, but reluctant to chop out the stock bulk head, and there is limited room to run the plumbing. Not worth it in my mind, as I had a few marks in there from big rocks. Temps are great in good snow, but groomed trails I have to keep watch with the 3" PC. I run the Doo bumper and their flap which works great on the trails.
 
Missed that you didn't add the end in after chopping ....We chopped with cross piece reinstalled and added a doo cooler in series to OEM cooler...ditched the flap ...not needed ...can start the sled and let it warm up for 8 - 10 minutes in the lot

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Missed that you didn't add the end in after chopping ....We chopped with cross piece reinstalled and added a doo cooler in series to OEM cooler...ditched the flap ...not needed ...can start the sled and let it warm up for 8 - 10 minutes in the lot

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Nice....any pictures ?
 
Just getting ready to do 2 more ...the rev coolers have bend in them so a little help from the hydraulic press straightens them out .. will post more shortly
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I have a 2017 axys and my father has an 850 matryx khaos, my uncle got the 850 matryx pro but I got a lot more time on khaos, all 155. The matryx chassis is definitely an upgrade but it isn't a generational leap like the gen 5 skidoo. It feels very similar to the axys, maybe a little more refined and definitely more agile but I think that's because of the khaos since the pro didn't feel dramatically more agile in the little time I rode it. I personally am completely happy on my axys and don't find myself wanting to hop on their sleds. I paid half for my axys with 400 miles of what they paid for their sleds and they both agree that the matryx isn't worth the extra.

Turbo is a different story since you're not just comparing axys to matryx. Family friend who's ran new turbos on brand new Polaris sleds every year for 10+ years now and the factory turbo sled is way better than any of his aftermarket turbo sleds. It actually works every time and he doesn't have to do anything with it ever. (warrantied clutch and fuel pump though) he's chipped it and runs avgas at 15 psi now and it rips harder than almost any of his custom sleds ever could, didn't wrench on it even once last season.



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Just getting ready to do 2 more ...the rev coolers have bend in them so a little help from the hydraulic press straightens them out .. will post more shortly
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Makes for a full length tunnel cooler ....just a little automotive tape to help hold the tail light wire guard in place :)
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I'm getting everything together to do a tapered chop and add an old Rev cooler (under tunnel in addition to existing cooler) this weekend. Should be sweet if all goes according to plan. I appreciate all the help and pictures offered up
 
Lots of nice work here - I like the idea of incorporating the Doo cooler into the tunnel. Of course, tying it in with the original cooler will give you the most capacity, but if it were me, I'd really lean toward leaving that out of the circuit. You get so much slush buildup on the Pro/AXYS tunnel - I'd estimate 30lb of half-frozen slush on the tunnel and boards - and I think it's all from the melt/freeze caused by that perimeter tunnel cooling circuit. You can knock some of it off, but one quick run through the powder and it's all back. So my approach would be to just use the center cooler, like @HECKS, if cooling is adequate. If not, then ideally I'd add the bulkhead cooler before tying the stock cooler back in (and one good option would be to use the SKS part; I know people have done it, not sure what it does for track clearance though).

Mine is set up with a MTNTK cooler plus the stock circuit. If I were to get serious about modding it out, I'd be looking at a D&R, possibly belt conversion, add a bulkhead cooler, and cut out the original cooler, keeping the MTNTK cooler of course. I'd definitely be cutting the tunnel; stupid easy without having to worry about the cooling circuit. I'd like to upgrade in the next season or two though, so if I could find an 850 to do all that to, then I could sell what I'e got when I'm finished, and I'd end up with a lot more sled. It kind of stinks that for as big a step forward as they were, the Pro/AXYS cooling setup (there aren't any major differences that I know of) is both marginal and piles weight on the sled because of snow/ice buildup. Polaris still doesn't really have this figured out: the Slash is great in good snow, but just struggles too much in marginal snow, to my mind.
 
Being I do not run the stock cooling circuit, and only the center mount, I have to run a snowflap & scratchers when trails to the alpine are firm, especially running a 3" track. Once in good snow, flap is flipped up and maintains 125 F. The amount of snow/slush build up on the tunnel from deep days is not much different than some of the stock Axys tunnel guys in my group. I have even tried this Plowslick stuff on the inside of the tunnel 2 seasons ago, a 2 part polymer coating. Seemed to help, but the spring gravel has peeled most of it away now. Time to reapply. First picture shows the front part of the drop bracket coated in it.IMG_8137.JPG
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Being I do not run the stock cooling circuit, and only the center mount, I have to run a snowflap & scratchers when trails to the alpine are firm, especially running a 3" track. Once in good snow, flap is flipped up and maintains 125 F. The amount of snow/slush build up on the tunnel from deep days is not much different than some of the stock Axys tunnel guys in my group. I have even tried this Plowslick stuff on the inside of the tunnel 2 seasons ago, a 2 part polymer coating. Seemed to help, but the spring gravel has peeled most of it away now. Time to reapply. First picture shows the front part of the drop bracket coated in it.View attachment 412366
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So youre saying that running the center cooler only doesnt change ice buildup much?
 
I would say it's slightly better, but deep pow is all the same in my books. Good pic between a Matryx and my sled in decent snow, and a stock Axys in the back ground. But the short tunnel sure makes a difference in the chew factor !
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