Kinda getting it all back together again. Made a new tail peiceAh gotcha so you bypassed the stock cooling and use the mtntk cooler only. Makes sense. Have any pics?
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Kinda getting it all back together again. Made a new tail peiceAh gotcha so you bypassed the stock cooling and use the mtntk cooler only. Makes sense. Have any pics?
Hey cool thanks for the pics. I ordered a short Rev cooler to install as supplement when i do a tapered chop (hoping to maintain flow through original cooler channels via solidworks and a talented tig friend). Could you tell me how easily the middle section of tunnel sheet metal comes out? looks like the original hardened rivets are still in the extrusion. Did you grind those rivets out under then pop the sheet off? is it glued in pretty well too?I had found an old Skidoo cooler I plumbed down the middle and chopped the tunnel on. Works well, but it requires a flap for groomed trails and spring snow as the shorter tunnel does not catch the amount of snow a standard tunnel catches.
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The center is thin, and I just cut along the inside edge with a skillsaw to keep the stock coolers untouched, incase I need to revert back to them. I trimmed down the 'wings' off the Doo cooler and drilled and rivet along the stock cooler rivet lines. Being the top of the cooler sits higher than the tunnel, I used some weather stripping to raise the fuel tank up.Hey cool thanks for the pics. I ordered a short Rev cooler to install as supplement when i do a tapered chop (hoping to maintain flow through original cooler channels via solidworks and a talented tig friend). Could you tell me how easily the middle section of tunnel sheet metal comes out? looks like the original hardened rivets are still in the extrusion. Did you grind those rivets out under then pop the sheet off? is it glued in pretty well too?
All great information. Thanks for the additional pics as well. So looks like there is enough room up front (between the fuel tank and air intake) for the new cooler and fittings to be installed a bit behind the stock coolant bungs without shifting the tank back. That correct? Is there more room than you needed?The center is thin, and I just cut along the inside edge with a skillsaw to keep the stock coolers untouched, incase I need to revert back to them. I trimmed down the 'wings' off the Doo cooler and drilled and rivet along the stock cooler rivet lines. Being the top of the cooler sits higher than the tunnel, I used some weather stripping to raise the fuel tank up.
Looking at your later pics ...you could run coolant down OEM cooler and pass through brp cooler on the return ...that's what we've done on 4 and they run greatI had found an old Skidoo cooler I plumbed down the middle and chopped the tunnel on. Works well, but it requires a flap for groomed trails and spring snow as the shorter tunnel does not catch the amount of snow a standard tunnel catches.
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He would have to do some sort of crossover at the back of the OEM cooler since it's chopped and not weldedLooking at your later pics ...you could run coolant down OEM cooler and pass through brp cooler on the return ...that's what we've done on 4 and they run great
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It is real tight on my fittings into the cooler. I kept the fuel tank in stock position, but I had to heat and beat the bottom of fuel tank in 1/2" to make some room. So I didn't have an issue with braking a fitting off. Can't really tell from the photo here, but it's a tight fit getting my airbox in.All great information. Thanks for the additional pics as well. So looks like there is enough room up front (between the fuel tank and air intake) for the new cooler and fittings to be installed a bit behind the stock coolant bungs without shifting the tank back. That correct? Is there more room than you needed?
As mentioned above, I am not running the stock crossover on the rear. The Doo cooler was from a 154". I do have the bulk head cooler from the Doo to, but reluctant to chop out the stock bulk head, and there is limited room to run the plumbing. Not worth it in my mind, as I had a few marks in there from big rocks. Temps are great in good snow, but groomed trails I have to keep watch with the 3" PC. I run the Doo bumper and their flap which works great on the trails.Looking at your later pics ...you could run coolant down OEM cooler and pass through brp cooler on the return ...that's what we've done on 4 and they run great
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Nice....any pictures ?Missed that you didn't add the end in after chopping ....We chopped with cross piece reinstalled and added a doo cooler in series to OEM cooler...ditched the flap ...not needed ...can start the sled and let it warm up for 8 - 10 minutes in the lot
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Makes for a full length tunnel cooler ....just a little automotive tape to help hold the tail light wire guard in placeJust getting ready to do 2 more ...the rev coolers have bend in them so a little help from the hydraulic press straightens them out .. will post more shortly
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So youre saying that running the center cooler only doesnt change ice buildup much?Being I do not run the stock cooling circuit, and only the center mount, I have to run a snowflap & scratchers when trails to the alpine are firm, especially running a 3" track. Once in good snow, flap is flipped up and maintains 125 F. The amount of snow/slush build up on the tunnel from deep days is not much different than some of the stock Axys tunnel guys in my group. I have even tried this Plowslick stuff on the inside of the tunnel 2 seasons ago, a 2 part polymer coating. Seemed to help, but the spring gravel has peeled most of it away now. Time to reapply. First picture shows the front part of the drop bracket coated in it.View attachment 412366
View attachment 412365Plow-Slick The slickest non-stick slippery snowplow coating
slick, snowplow coatings, silicone, teflon, snow repellent, ice repellent, plow parts, boss plows, western plows, meyers plows, snowplows, snow plows, plowing snow, plowsite.comwww.plowslick.com