What works better to get hand warmers to work a little better? I hate wearing thick gloves...
Thanks
Thanks
spray foam or cork?
- Thread starter WingNutRacing
- Start date
ok
What about corking inside the bars? Or am I thinking about this wrong?
What about corking inside the bars? Or am I thinking about this wrong?
outside. the aluminum is absorbing the heat and dissipating it throughout the bar; you want to isolate the heater from the bar. foaming the inside would help but a cork layer between would be much better.
hmm
Yeah, that's what I thought, I really like the Poo grips and don't want to disturb them, been down that loose grip road,,,,,, that sux....... Looks like foam for now, till the grips go downhill..
Yeah, that's what I thought, I really like the Poo grips and don't want to disturb them, been down that loose grip road,,,,,, that sux....... Looks like foam for now, till the grips go downhill..
yeah
Some chrommolly Pro Tapers would cure the problem for sure...
Some chrommolly Pro Tapers would cure the problem for sure...
Aluminum bars simply conduct heat, THROUGH THE BAR, away from the grips faster than say steel.
The grips really do not loose heat to the air inside the bars... they loose heat by being conducted away through the metal of the bars... I agree with Meathooker and BILTIT.
If you take the time to wrap the bar with the cork correctly, making sure that you have no oils etc (nice and clean) on the bars... you will have no issues.
If you want an easy way to go...just get the Ski doo cork with the peel and stick adhesive on it... then stick your bar heaters to that.
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The grips really do not loose heat to the air inside the bars... they loose heat by being conducted away through the metal of the bars... I agree with Meathooker and BILTIT.
If you take the time to wrap the bar with the cork correctly, making sure that you have no oils etc (nice and clean) on the bars... you will have no issues.
If you want an easy way to go...just get the Ski doo cork with the peel and stick adhesive on it... then stick your bar heaters to that.
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sure
Yeah, I understand the excellent conductivity of th Al...... Just looking to not disturb the new grips till I have to.....
My hands aren't as young as they used to be, and after roughneck'n in NoDak for a few brutal winters, and breakin a few, my knuckles really don't like the cold anymore, and handguards are a complete waste of time on my sleds, they just don't survive...
Yeah, I understand the excellent conductivity of th Al...... Just looking to not disturb the new grips till I have to.....
My hands aren't as young as they used to be, and after roughneck'n in NoDak for a few brutal winters, and breakin a few, my knuckles really don't like the cold anymore, and handguards are a complete waste of time on my sleds, they just don't survive...
Just corked mine and can feel the difference already when I first fire it up ,there is instant heat. Haven't tied it on the trail yet. Did the foam last year and noticed little difference.
I hear ya WNR... I'm gettin older by the day! (and feeling it too)
Use an air nozzle to get between the bar and the grip... slide it off.
Wash the grip with some good degreaser or buy a new grip and degrease that as well from the residual molding-release agent left in the grip.
Using a heat gun (carefully) Remove the old grip heater from the bars...
Clean all the glue residue off the bars... Then install the Ski Doo style Cork wraps on the bars (cheap and easy)...
Heres a plug for one of our advertisers for the cork... cheap and you get a pair.
http://www.gobigparts.com/SPI-HANDLEBAR-HEATER-INSULATORS.html
NOTE: You will only use part of this cork..and trim the rest..they are made for the Doo bars with hooks buit in.
Clean the old contact adhesive from inside the stock heater...
Then, using a good contact cement, like 3M SUPER-90 that resists heat better, glue the heater to the cork following the instructions.
You can buy 3M Super-90 at most NAPA or other auto parts stores...or body shop/upholstery supply stores.
Super-90 is also called "Yellow Super Trim Adhesive", #08090
DON't go for the Super 77 (AKA "General Trim Adhesive", #08088)
Yes, it's pricey... but you will have plenty left over for other things or hookin up your riding buddies when they realize your grips work so well!!
OR
Use high temp double-sided tape like 3M #4646 VHB tape. (yes again, it's pricey, but you will have plenty left over for other things)
http://www.mcmaster.com/#7201a43/=uhtvgn
Then, using compressed air...put the grip back on DRY...AFTER you have cleaned the the surface of any oil or residue.
The grip will not move on you.
If you want a better grip...The RSI 7" rubber grips are a good way to improve grip...but clean them with degreaser as well before install... you will not need any glue. http://www.rsiracing.com/7-RUBBER-GRIPS_p_24.html (you will trim them to fit the length you want...preferably after you install them so you have a clean cut end using a sharp razor knife.
From a previous thread in General:
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=287733
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Use an air nozzle to get between the bar and the grip... slide it off.
Wash the grip with some good degreaser or buy a new grip and degrease that as well from the residual molding-release agent left in the grip.
Using a heat gun (carefully) Remove the old grip heater from the bars...
Clean all the glue residue off the bars... Then install the Ski Doo style Cork wraps on the bars (cheap and easy)...
Heres a plug for one of our advertisers for the cork... cheap and you get a pair.
http://www.gobigparts.com/SPI-HANDLEBAR-HEATER-INSULATORS.html
NOTE: You will only use part of this cork..and trim the rest..they are made for the Doo bars with hooks buit in.
Clean the old contact adhesive from inside the stock heater...
Then, using a good contact cement, like 3M SUPER-90 that resists heat better, glue the heater to the cork following the instructions.
You can buy 3M Super-90 at most NAPA or other auto parts stores...or body shop/upholstery supply stores.
Super-90 is also called "Yellow Super Trim Adhesive", #08090
DON't go for the Super 77 (AKA "General Trim Adhesive", #08088)
Yes, it's pricey... but you will have plenty left over for other things or hookin up your riding buddies when they realize your grips work so well!!
OR
Use high temp double-sided tape like 3M #4646 VHB tape. (yes again, it's pricey, but you will have plenty left over for other things)
http://www.mcmaster.com/#7201a43/=uhtvgn
Then, using compressed air...put the grip back on DRY...AFTER you have cleaned the the surface of any oil or residue.
The grip will not move on you.
If you want a better grip...The RSI 7" rubber grips are a good way to improve grip...but clean them with degreaser as well before install... you will not need any glue. http://www.rsiracing.com/7-RUBBER-GRIPS_p_24.html (you will trim them to fit the length you want...preferably after you install them so you have a clean cut end using a sharp razor knife.
From a previous thread in General:
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=287733
Here's my method and I have not had any issues...might be controversial for the glue users.
AGAIN... This is MY method and there are plenty of others with different points of view and successful results.
ANY rubber grip has this release compound residue on it.
I wash new rubber grips inside/out very well with auto body wax/grease/silicone remover and then rinse them with a good detergent like simple green and then plenty of hot water. let them dry over night.... I do this to the spare sets that I keep on the ready and keep those in a zip lock bag to keep any dust or dirt off.
I then wipe the handlebars and grips with the same wax/grease/silicone remover and then a quick wipe of acetone to remove any remaining residue... using a super clean, lint free rag (i use old refugee linen cloth napkins). Let it sit for half an hour.
Don't touch it again with your bare hands (or anything oily for that matter)
After that is done.. I use low pressure compressed air nozzle to carefully walk the grip onto the bar with NO adhesive, hairspray etc... and leave it there... they don't walk/move on me...
IMPORTANT NOTE: If you have a compressor with no water/oil remover... this may cause more problems.... if you don't have a good oil/moisture trap on the compressor...buy a cheap plastic inline oil/water trap from an auto store or good body shop supply (photo below) . ... when you are finished with it... keep it in a zip lock bag. Make sure that you drain the compressor tank and make sure you don't have water coming out... moist air is he!! on your air tools as well. If you have an inline oiler...tap into the air before the oiler... This is a big problem when using compressed air if the air itself is contaminating the rubber.
I'm a fan of the Motorguard brand of inline disposable filters. (less than $4 each... buy a few of them.) I have a good wall mounted separator and I still use the inline/disposables.
It is also important that that bars and grips are warm (indoors is best)
Often times adhesives warm up an cause more problems... which is why the RSI stuff is a two part hardening adhesive.
BUT... the big enemies, even if you use glue or safety wire are residue (like oil from your hands) and mold release wax/compound inside the grip from production.
The RSI/ODI grips which are my favorites, should be looked at as an expendable "tool" to hold onto your sled... you should count on replacing ANY good grip at least once during the season if not more ( I go through 3 sets on average).... the stock Polaris grips... last about half the season before they get slick.... I like the RSI grips the best.
ALSO... clean the bars VERY carefully before putting on the grip heaters. If the heaters are not stuck well...neither will the grips.
On the extended heaters... the extension "T" goes on from the bottom of the hook, not over the top.
Safety wire is great IF you know how to do it AND when you "tuck the tail" of the twist back inside the grip, you do not scratch the heater.
But with this method described above... you won't need it.
My 2 cents...
All the details that I posted above are thrown out the window if you over-inflate the grip and balloon it out... they just wont hold when they are stretched that much... in that case where you overinflated and stretched it out.... you would have to use glue to get it to stay put.
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You use Polaris hand-warmers part #'s 2412944 & 2412945.
The hand-warmers on the new Axys sleds are insulated and would be a a direct plug & play with your current sled. I don't know why Polaris isn't advertising this. Hopefully they'll be added to the '16 RMK as well.
EDIT: 11-13-2014, 09:19 AM
The hand-warmers on the new Axys sleds are insulated and would be a a direct plug & play with your current sled. I don't know why Polaris isn't advertising this. Hopefully they'll be added to the '16 RMK as well.
EDIT: 11-13-2014, 09:19 AM
Last edited by a moderator:
Don't over think it. Buy the skidoo cork, they will be slightly a little long. Trim some.
Undo handle bar hook/end.
With some compressed air shoot a little between the grip and bar and wiggle off grip.
then use a hair dryer ( preferably conair)
and just lightly warm up heat element and peel off slowly with clean hands.
put cork on Bar and then heat element then rubber back on.then bar end. Don't get crazy with it. Just a little air and your done. It increases the grip diameter slightly but not much.
Undo handle bar hook/end.
With some compressed air shoot a little between the grip and bar and wiggle off grip.
then use a hair dryer ( preferably conair)
and just lightly warm up heat element and peel off slowly with clean hands.put cork on Bar and then heat element then rubber back on.then bar end. Don't get crazy with it. Just a little air and your done. It increases the grip diameter slightly but not much.
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O
Oregonsledder
Well-known member
I foamed the inside of the bar first... little improvement, mainly in my imagination LOL. Corked the grips with cork and 3M spray adhesive. Easy project and the cork made a BIG difference. My grips are a tight as new, just a little fatter.
I like the fact that the new axys grips are insulated. I think I will go that route
I foamed mine last winter, noticed a little difference but not enough to warrant no other changes. I rode one day up here in Manitoba that was -40C before the windchill (ya ya call me stupid I know) and the only thing that saved my hands was buying a pair of gauntlet style gloves that I hate riding with. no mobility in the individual on the bars
I will try the axys style warmers and report back whenever I ride on an actual cold day (I'm thinking -30C should be a real test). I also can not make hand guards last.
I foamed mine last winter, noticed a little difference but not enough to warrant no other changes. I rode one day up here in Manitoba that was -40C before the windchill (ya ya call me stupid I know) and the only thing that saved my hands was buying a pair of gauntlet style gloves that I hate riding with. no mobility in the individual on the bars
I will try the axys style warmers and report back whenever I ride on an actual cold day (I'm thinking -30C should be a real test). I also can not make hand guards last.
I was the same way with handguards until I found rox flex tek 2. Little pricey but worth every penny
I did mine at beginning of last season using Doo corks and the method that Mountainhorse described. The grips heat up way faster. I only run my grips on high when I first get going on a ride. Most of the time they are on low or off. I wear Fly Title gloves with little to no insulation.
I corked mine last year. didn't really love it. they heat up a LOT more. High was too hot, had to toggle between low and off when boon docking. Only time I liked it more was down the trail. My other sled is uncorked (normal or stock) and I keep it on high and it is perfect when boondocking, but too cold down the trail.
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