SNOWSHOW:FYI... FIRST LOOK AT THE BIG BOOST PRO-RIDE TURBO.

[MTNTK]

I wonder how good the fresh air intake is going to be?
I am a true believer that you need to get the intake out of the engine compartment.
Is that a 66?

Yes that is a series 66 Aerocharger. The fresh air intake is exactly as you believe it should. There is a vacuum formed plastic plenum that connects the turbo intake to the stock chimney. We are currently building the vents that will have to be added to give the engine enough air. Cold air is critical in making the engine run right, and instrumental in helping us not use an intercooler. Intercoolers when done right can help, but from the research I have done the benefit is negligible at anything less than 12 psi of boost. It is very necassary if you are not using an outside draw "cold air" intake though. The cold air makes it possible to make a very good running turbocharger setup with out an intercooler. We found that fuel adjustments were more frequent when we ran an intercooler, because temperature swings were more severe WITH an air to air intercooler. Some days there would be mucho snow and barely any forward movement so air flow was down under the hood. Higher intake temps, so less fuel. Next time out the snow was more settled and more airflow under the hood. Colder intake temps, so more fuel. Sure there are fluctuations in the actual air temperature ouside but the effect is not as magnified without the intercooler. In theory the water to air intercooler has a place here, but usually it makes routing the charge tube less than ideal, which in itself will cause the turbo to work harder and make warmer air, negating the effect you are trying get by having it. I get long winded, but in the long and short of it I believe and will always have a "cold air intake".MTNTK.

 

[MTNTK]

what kind of intake air temps are you seeing?
where are you mounting the injectors?
are they all coming ceramic coated?
looks really nice mounted in there
found any snow to run it on yet?

When we run it (waiting for the new fuel controller), we will find out how much more fuel we need and that will determine the size of injector. We already have a charge box built that has the injectors mounted on each side directly pointed at each throttle body. Yes it will be ceramic coated. What you see there is what you get in the kit. We like it to look as good as it works. We haven't tested it on the snow yet but I think next week will be the maiden voyage. Pray for snow.

 

[mountainhorse]

Why would you put the injector on the airbox side of the TB butterflies and not in a custom TB boot mount?

Keep the info coming!!

 

[Clarke673]

MTNTK, is there any truth that you need an air box for a good throttle response? From talking to some older guys, they said that the whole idea of having an air box is to have a mass volume of air available for the engine at all times, more air then it could ever need at one point so that when you are in a low throttle application and then instantly go to WFO, you have enough air in supply to get the engine going quickly? I guess i am interested in seeing what your "cold air" intake is. I see a lot of guys running turbos with big K&N filter sticking out of their hood covered in snow.

I truly believe that pod filters and filters stuck out in he open are both completely useless.

 

[MTNTK]

Why would you put the injector on the airbox side of the TB butterflies and not in a custom TB boot mount?

Keep the info coming!!

This is a complicated question but there is an answer. The advent of a custom machined intake boot adapter was for the most part designed to eliminate boots ripping apart under high boost. Adding the injectors were a neat idea and definately puts them in a secure location. When we are building a kit we try to put good value in a good performing kit. The custom machined parts are much more expensive thus it must be reflected in the end price to the end user (you). A few years ago we were playing around with a much more secure mount to secure the throttle bodies to the engine, and we had problems with vibration wearing out throttle cables, linkages, mounts etc. The rubber boot is a very good place for the engine to flex and not transmit all the vibration to the throttle bodies, and charge box. If you think about it the lever arm length created by the throttle bodies and charge box connected to it is substantial. If the engine rotates 1 degree clockwise and counterclockwise with each power stroke( and it does that at least, thats why it has rubber motor mounts) the amount of movement at the end of that arm could be an inch or more! It really depends on the style of kit and how everything is put together. We like the rubber adapter to flex a little and not break other things. We use springs that exert a hefty amount of force pulling the charge box into the throttlebodies and into the rubber intake adapter. This does two things. It allows the boot to still flex, while at the same time putting force on the boot to reduce the tendancy to rip the boot. We really have no boot failures at any boost level up to 14lbs. It is neither right or wrong to have either type, just as long as the kit was engineered and tested to hold up. There is an optimum length of intake that you want to have the fuel in suspension in the air. Too long and it tends to make larger droplets and fall out of suspension and not be burned completely. Too short and it will never properly mix with the air and won't burn completely. All three scenarios will make power just two will get worse fuel economy. Putting the fuel in at the point where the air is moving at high velocity will allow good atomization and suspension. To go back to the original question, we think it makes a less expensive and more reliable kit the way ours is designed as a whole. Others may do it differently and have similar results. We have tested ours. I like these intellegent questions. Hope that helps.MTNTK.

 

[MTNTK]

MTNTK, is there any truth that you need an air box for a good throttle response? From talking to some older guys, they said that the whole idea of having an air box is to have a mass volume of air available for the engine at all times, more air then it could ever need at one point so that when you are in a low throttle application and then instantly go to WFO, you have enough air in supply to get the engine going quickly? I guess i am interested in seeing what your "cold air" intake is. I see a lot of guys running turbos with big K&N filter sticking out of their hood covered in snow.

I truly believe that pod filters and filters stuck out in he open are both completely useless.

There is some truth and sound engineering to having a large volume box. The engine was originally tuned from the factory to use a large volume. It is tuned to vibrate at a certain frequency which can supercharge the intake at certain engine rpms and boost power and throttle reponse. It is a similar concept to having the tuned pipe on the exhaust. Even if you are not trying to get the resonant frequence right the engine needs a large volume of air to fill the cylinder or in the two stroke case the crankcase. In the two stroke example the engine is theoretically on the intake stroke from bottom dead center to top dead center, so 50% of the time, per cylinder(don't call me because I know it can be more or less dynamically when running). If you have that engine running at 8000rpm the piston is moving up and down at 133.3333 times per second. That means each revolution of the crank happens in .0075 seconds and each intake duration is only 1/2 of that .00375 seconds. The engine needs air (and a large quantity of it) in not much time. Many more times the air required if a pipe were flowing continuously. Every time we tried to make a really small intake volume we lost bottom end power bad. You can pull fuel and clutch around it but the fact is the engine is not going to be as responsive or make any power there. When boost comes on the effect is overcome, but you still lost the holeshot or just got stuck. We have a top secret weapon that restores the power lost when using a low volume intake and allows us to keep boost response and blow of valve response awsome without the usual loss of power. As for the cold air intake ours goes into the stock plenum and we just have to add some more vents to supply the air. It is kind of funny but alot of the yamaha turbo kits rely on the fact that when the champagne powder starts to plug the filter sticking out the back of the seat they can kick it with their foot and get going again! I am not bashing it, I just get a kick out of watching them hopping from side to side and tapping it with their foot!. MTNTK.

 

[PMSPOLARIS]

THANKS FOR THE DETAILS

There is some truth and sound engineering to having a large volume box. The engine was originally tuned from the factory to use a large volume. It is tuned to vibrate at a certain frequency which can supercharge the intake at certain engine rpms and boost power and throttle reponse. It is a similar concept to having the tuned pipe on the exhaust. Even if you are not trying to get the resonant frequence right the engine needs a large volume of air to fill the cylinder or in the two stroke case the crankcase. In the two stroke example the engine is theoretically on the intake stroke from bottom dead center to top dead center, so 50% of the time, per cylinder(don't call me because I know it can be more or less dynamically when running). If you have that engine running at 8000rpm the piston is moving up and down at 133.3333 times per second. That means each revolution of the crank happens in .0075 seconds and each intake duration is only 1/2 of that .00375 seconds. The engine needs air (and a large quantity of it) in not much time. Many more times the air required if a pipe were flowing continuously. Every time we tried to make a really small intake volume we lost bottom end power bad. You can pull fuel and clutch around it but the fact is the engine is not going to be as responsive or make any power there. When boost comes on the effect is overcome, but you still lost the holeshot or just got stuck. We have a top secret weapon that restores the power lost when using a low volume intake and allows us to keep boost response and blow of valve response awsome without the usual loss of power. As for the cold air intake ours goes into the stock plenum and we just have to add some more vents to supply the air. It is kind of funny but alot of the yamaha turbo kits rely on the fact that when the champagne powder starts to plug the filter sticking out the back of the seat they can kick it with their foot and get going again! I am not bashing it, I just get a kick out of watching them hopping from side to side and tapping it with their foot!. MTNTK.

Thanks for the details on the turbo MTNTK

 

[ewanaburner]

injectors

are you going to use the factory injectors at all?
I would be concerned with injectors in the air box - when you
dump the throttle quick hesitate then get back on it there will
be extra fuel in the intake track and it will bog
and you would get alot of slobber in the air box

are you regulating fuel pressure?

 

[MTNTK]

Oh yes we will be using the stock injectors. The extra injectors are just auxiliary to the stock ones. They only come on when there is boost. There is not any slobbering in to the intake. Boosted engines run good this way. And yes the fuel regulator is pressure compensated. It just works better and less tuning issues to pressure compensate the fuel regulator.

 

[standup06]

Well I have been doing alot of research, as I am in the market for a turbo kit again for a new pro.

Here are a few questions for you about this kit.

What keeps that recoil rope from falling off the additional pulley? If it comes off wont it be resting of that hot tubine?

You say you have done your testing with airbox mounted fuel injectors but you also state you dont have control box yet? Whats really going on?

You dont know what size injectors your using for secondarys? Do you know what size the stockers are? And what they are capable of?

I have been around alot of these turbo sleds, and I have seen airbox and charge tube mounted additional injectors, and they DONT work when they are on and off the throttle alot. Have called a few other turbo builders, and they claim that when your on and off the throttle, the fuel still sprays for a bit and hits the closed throttle plates, than eventually builds up enough to cause the sled to bog out.

Also with all the failures with throttle body boots on these polaris sled, I would assume oring fitted airbox and boots would be the only way to go, if you want a reliable setup. I personally owned one, and no matter what you do, them boots are going to fail. You must not have enough miles on yours yet, or got a good boot. I have seen them come apart on stock sleds even.

Does the system have a blow off valve?

You claim its a complete bolt on turbo kit, but do you have cut or move any of them hoses? Or do you supply new hoses? What if I wanted to return my sled back to stock, what will I need to buy to do so?

There are alot of neat setups out there for these Pros, keep up the work.

James

 

[MTNTK]

Well I have been doing alot of research, as I am in the market for a turbo kit again for a new pro.

Here are a few questions for you about this kit.

What keeps that recoil rope from falling off the additional pulley? If it comes off wont it be resting of that hot tubine?

You say you have done your testing with airbox mounted fuel injectors but you also state you dont have control box yet? Whats really going on?

You dont know what size injectors your using for secondarys? Do you know what size the stockers are? And what they are capable of?

I have been around alot of these turbo sleds, and I have seen airbox and charge tube mounted additional injectors, and they DONT work when they are on and off the throttle alot. Have called a few other turbo builders, and they claim that when your on and off the throttle, the fuel still sprays for a bit and hits the closed throttle plates, than eventually builds up enough to cause the sled to bog out.

Also with all the failures with throttle body boots on these polaris sled, I would assume oring fitted airbox and boots would be the only way to go, if you want a reliable setup. I personally owned one, and no matter what you do, them boots are going to fail. You must not have enough miles on yours yet, or got a good boot. I have seen them come apart on stock sleds even.

Does the system have a blow off valve?

You claim its a complete bolt on turbo kit, but do you have cut or move any of them hoses? Or do you supply new hoses? What if I wanted to return my sled back to stock, what will I need to buy to do so?

There are alot of neat setups out there for these Pros, keep up the work.

James

The recoil rope pulley has a keeper on it that captures the rope. It can't come off. The pictures just are not showing it. It is there!
No one has tested the Pro with anything yet, or at least published it. What I meant is we have used the injectors in the charge box on other builds and there is a right way to do it and a wrong way. PM me and I will tell you why ours works. That way I don't have to publicly bash someones kit.
I do know what size of injectors are probably going on this sled. And yes we have determined what size the stockers are. It doesn't look like there will be quite enough injector to even do a low boost kit without auxillaries, but.... I am waiting to see, because I would rather be able to drop the price of the kit rather than put unnecassary parts on.
As for the boots, I have had a failures, but it has been on used sleds that had the turbo installed. Most of the failures occur because the airbox on a stock sled or the charge box on a boosted sled is not secured down to prevent it from flopping. It will over work the boot and rip it loose. I have also had a lot of boots rip when the clamps are over tightened. Go back and read the post about our springs that help the boot to hold up.
Yes, you have to cut and move hoses. We have always advertised that you could return your sled to stock for under 100 dollars. New hoses, and a tank plug (which we will provide) are the most you have to do.
Thanks for the questions and I hope it helps you to understand what is "really going on". I am not talking out of my butt, it would sound much more muffled than this.MTNTK.

 

[phatboyfilms]

no posts since the snow came & this sled could be ran..... just curious, does anyone have this kit? does it run?

 

[R_8_N]

Are all the Aero kits STILL waiting on fuel boxes?

And why isnt this in the turbo section?