Sneak Peak - ProRMK Questions

[GoBigParts]

I went to the Sneak Peak last night. Checked out the ProRMK and the New Cat M8. Liked them both. The M8 seemed to wide at the bottom of the seat which pushes your legs out right below you knees which is wierd. The dash looks unfinished. Other than that I will be keeping my eye on how they do this year.

Back to Polaris. This is nothing new but on the Pro you get the Pro taper bars which puts most of the switches for hand warmers and what not at a bit of a reach compared to the standard RMK. Does this bother anyone?

The side panels seem a bit of a process to open and close. Is it just a learning curve thing? Also what is the process to remove the hood. Can this be done easily in the field or more of a in the shop process?

What about changeing the plugs. Easy to do from the side panel openings?

The rear suspension on the PRO does not have all the wheels of the standard RMK. For those of you that do trail ride on occassion has this been an issue with hyfax wear or do the scratchers do a good job and hyfax last just as long?

The Walker Evans shocks that come on the Pro. Are these nice for everage boondocking, Trail riding and climbing? I'm sure if your hucking large drops or jumps you probably want something more like the assualt but I'm more of a small jump rider.


Just a few questions I have before plunking my money down on a new Pro or RMK.

 

[NDRMK]

You get used to the switch location and do not use them that often.
You do get used to side panel removal and the are totally out of the way when off. Ice scratchers a must on trails, but wear on rails no problem. Shocks are fine for small jumps I do. Never had hood off or changed plugs just RIDE!!

 

[sled_guy]

I think you nailed one of the problems with the M8... when I rode it it was really uncomfortable because of that wide area.

I have complained about the switch location on the Dragons and now Pros since 2008. The standard RMKs are little better... still using the same controls from 1997. I find it annoying with those switches down between your legs, not lighted, and the bar and thumb warmer on the same circuit.

sled_guy

 

[Sunridge Sledhead]

I've got about 1200 miles on my Pro this year. For me, this is the best, stock mountain sled I've ever owned, and that includes several! It just works! Perfect? No! But, a great sled! I like the switches out of the way. I tend to turn my warmers on and off when on the bars. Plugs are easy to change, especially when compared to the M sleds. I have never had to remove the hood on my sled. I'm not a fan of the side panels, but that goes for almost any sled. I haven't seen a great design yet. The shocks and suspension work well for me. My dealer (Tri City Performance) recommended adding another set of wheels, which made sense to me. I think we lose a lot to friction by trying to lose weight by eliminating wheels.

As for Cat.....come on CAT....bring a finished sled to the table and let us ride it!

 

[m8sandman]

warmer switches suck but i just leave my hand warmers on high and leave them.

side panels are a pain, become even more after you bump a tree or 2

hood comes off in about 2mins. 2 screws by the steering column and 2 pushpins and the electrical plug.

plugs are a piece of cake.

scratchers work great on hardpack, just don't back up when there down

for the average rider or even a more aggresive rider such as myself the we's are awesome.

the thing i really love about this sled is you can ride it just the way you get it, a true out of the box mt. sled!!!

 

[IceCap]

The spark plugs remove real easy from the side panel access.

The spark plug wrench that comes with the sled has a #40 torx on the handle..... This is used to remove the two bolts (around the steering post) then the hood comes off.

There is one electrical plug to disconnect under the hood before you remove hood.

I haven't had to change plugs or remove hood out riding yet.

 

[aebsledder]

warmer switches suck but i just leave my hand warmers on high and leave them.

side panels are a pain, become even more after you bump a tree or 2

hood comes off in about 2mins. 2 screws by the steering column and 2 pushpins and the electrical plug.

plugs are a piece of cake.

scratchers work great on hardpack, just don't back up when there down

for the average rider or even a more aggresive rider such as myself the we's are awesome.

the thing i really love about this sled is you can ride it just the way you get it, a true out of the box mt. sled!!!

True. True. True. True. And True.

I did have the chance to ride a pro with the Fox Evol's on it and now I feel like I am missing out. But the stock shocks do work pretty dang good.

 

[GMCRMK]

I think you nailed one of the problems with the M8... when I rode it it was really uncomfortable because of that wide area.

I have complained about the switch location on the Dragons and now Pros since 2008. The standard RMKs are little better... still using the same controls from 1997. I find it annoying with those switches down between your legs, not lighted, and the bar and thumb warmer on the same circuit.

sled_guy

That's my biggest gripe. They're in a PITA location to begin with but good luck changing the handwarmer positon going back to the cabin or truck at night.

 

[AndrettiDog]

I don't like the controls on the bars. I would constantly "bump" them and they look like the controls of a John Deere tractor. I like the cleaner look to the bars and they are just controls for the MFD and hand warmers. Not a big deal.

The side panels are great. I like that I can take them completely off (especially for doing the wrap inside my house!). I bought a couple extra female side clasps for backup. They can be a pain in the arse, but work well when you figure it out (nice and snug).

Changing plugs is nothing like it was on the IQ. It's a little more like the XP but not bad. You just have to angle your arm into the side. You can remove the hood but it is not necessary.

Scratchers are great because they keep the hifax cool AND keep the engine cool (which extra wheels don't do). As long as you don't go in reverse, the scratchers hold up to almost anything. I've jumped, carved and never had them bend.

The shocks are much better than the WE's on the IQ (what wasn't?). They work great in powder, absorb most of the bumps and allow you to side hill w/o the sled getting thrown back upright. However, they are soft and it doesn't take huge hits to bottom them out. I've gone to Exit shocks and several others have gone on to Evol R's. Both great for that sled - I've ridden both setups.

It's a great sled. I haven't heard anyone say that they regret buying the sled. If it didn't say "Polaris" on the hood, I think several more people would have it as well.

 

[harrysmith500]

I think the switch location is heavenly.

 

[barry1me]

I have 600 miles on my 163 and love it. The ice scratchers work great. Considering I have put most the miles on in michigan, and there was a bit of trail riding there, the hifax look good. I have had the hood off several times and it takes maybe 30 seconds to take it off. Accesibility is great compared the XPs I have grown up with. Changing plugs is easy, chain case tightening is easy. The only thing I havent done is removed the rave valves but the clutch side rave valve looks like it may be fun to try and clean as its close to the steering arm. Overall this is the most fun, best sled I have owned, and I loved my 2010 Summit. Everyone of my friends (diehard Doo, and AC) that ride it simply love it. No regrets with purchase!

 

[AndrettiDog]

The only thing I havent done is removed the rave valves but the clutch side rave valve looks like it may be fun to try and clean as its close to the steering arm.

Rave?

You are right, you have to remove the steering arm mount over the motor to get that valve out. It is a little tricky. A good extension on a socket gets all but two bolts and they can be had with a ratcheting wrench.

 

[GoBigParts]

I like what I am hearing. The shocks should be a huge improvment of my 08 Standard RMK with non rebuildable Ryde FX shocks.

Sounds like everything is easy to get to except for the one valve.

I like the sounds of riding it the way it is out of the box. Pull and go.

 

[rotax]

Pol has the best switch setup I've ever used TBH. The S chassis Doos a close 2nd. Keeping that crap off the bars is definitely much nicer. NO bumping switches and turning things on/off/etc.

Its not too tough, up is HI, down is LO.
While I thought not having hand and thumb separate was an issue...its really not...HI is hot enough for me. LO is what low should be.

I'm 100% pro keeping the switches off the gd handle bars, and out of the way of my knees, legs, torso, branches and w/e else can bump switches when on the bars.
Switches on the bars are for trail riders.
Coming from a Rev, I know many many Rev riders who relocated switch controls.
I'd always find my hand/thumb warmers off, or on a different setting.
Or even hit the RER button at times..
Maybe Pol has been doing it right for so many years Pol riders haven't had to deal with it quite so much.

Oh, and the progressive switches are even worse, had them on my Nytro and apparently the newer XPs do the same. its no simple feat to go from lo to hi by 1 switch. You have to watch your guage, push the button, hopefully not push it too many times and have to recycle through all over again. Again, a trail rider feat. My hw work fine for my needs in HI or LO, I don't need 15 different "levels" of heat.

</rant>

 

[PalousePoo]

Having the headlight dimmer between your legs would be hard to work when meeting other sleds in the dark, but again, a trail rider thing. They probably should have that on the bars for safety. I like the bars clean though. I feel the shock valving isn't spot on and I can't stay in control when pounding trail whoops like my previous dragons could handle. But it's not worth, for me, spending $1000.00 on new shocks. I may send them to carls over the summer for valving. Become familiar with removing the hood in the shop, then if you have too, it won't be as much of a struggle reinstalling it in the field, if you need to remove it. Side panels get annoying, I think two bungees would hold it shut,and keep the bottom hinge as it is.

 

[800poodragon]

I have almost 1100 miles on my Pro this year...I like the switches off the bars, I think the panels are pretty easy to pop open and closed, never had a problem there. I did remove the hood once and cleaned the exhaust valves at around 500 miles and had no problem getting either of them out. Plugs are easy to reach but have not had to change them yet. Even still on the original belt with no problems. I always run with the scratchers down just to be sure everything is keeping wet and cool unless I am running in at least a foot or more of powder consistantly. Scratchers still look good. At least I have not hit reverse and bent them (yet), did that 3 or 4 times with my Dragon in the past. That really shortens the life of the scratchers...

 

[GoBigParts]

Thought of a couple more questions.

Who went with electric start? If you did is it worth it? If you did not do you wish you did? Wonder how much weight is adds?

How bad is the carbon fiber rear bumper, really?

 

[AndrettiDog]

Keep in mind that if you want electric start, you need a whole new primary on the Polaris.

I haven't had any problems with the bumper. It is slippery though. I'm sure if you have someone check up on you it will break.

 

[rotax]

Thought of a couple more questions.

Who went with electric start? If you did is it worth it? If you did not do you wish you did? Wonder how much weight is adds?

How bad is the carbon fiber rear bumper, really?

The low compression on this engine is pretty easy to pull. And it always fires in 2 pulls if cold, 1 if warm.
I came off a elec start Nytro, and have no prob going back to the pull n go.. Especially with EFI, I haven't rolled it or had it stuck on its side/upside down yet. But if its anything like a 4 stroke EFI, it always just fired right up.
Unlike the carbed Doos I came off of... Do you hold it WOT, do you choke it, do you just pull n pull n pull?

 

[River Ratt]

Bumper won't take much tree banging. Ordered a new after market from Tri-City. hood pins don't stay fastened. Swaybar way to stiff, took it off and put Assult heavier front spring on it. Switches are out of the way, but would be nice if they were lit up, my 2006 summit X rode better on rough trails, I was able to ride the summit and the pro in the mountains in deep powder, and the Pro is by far a superior mtn sled in every aspect except for the rough trails on the way down. I'm happy I went back to Polaris.