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Skiis opinion

Definitely not recommended to try and turn the skis with the bars when not moving. Ive seen guys break steering components doing that. Either give the throttle a little blip as you turn the bars or if you have to, do as idspud said and get off and grab a ski.
 
Where I’m from we’re built more like gorillas than Chadleys and I’ve seen posts twisted in two where welds fatigued the main post.
That’s a fun tow out a 50” wide trail.
 
Definitely not recommended to try and turn the skis with the bars when not moving. Ive seen guys break steering components doing that. Either give the throttle a little blip as you turn the bars or if you have to, do as idspud said and get off and grab a ski.
Or buy a Poo or Doo :)

Hopefully they've fixed the post on the Catalyst.
 
I haven't ridden a Catalyst yet, but I like skis that float and turn not push. So on the proclimb and ascender I like powder pros when it's soft snow conditions. This does come at a cost of more steering effort. I have a set of the Cat G2 skis to run in the spring when flotation isn't at a premium and steering gets heavier. The push on the Cat skis still bothers me a bit so I got a set of Woody's Maverick wear bars to try to help out in the turning department. If steering effort is a big concern then might want to stick with a less aggressive ski design.

With the high caster angle on the Cat mountain spindles there is a lot of "trail" in the front end geometry. That in itself can make the steering heavier.
 
I was talking about a poo and a doo having broken components….
 
I used to carry around an extra tie rod after NOT learning twice, not to turn the bars hard while barely moving.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
For Boondocker97, the torx on the extension is in line with the top of the spindle. A riot's spindle is no where near that far pushed forward in the saddle. IMG_20240124_200707763.jpg
I've already felt the feed back from those skis, when they don't like the terrain they will let the shoulders know. Carbides are plenty sharp:)
 
The ski is really pushed out front, in certain conditions when the snow is choppy or when one ski punches threw feed back will be sent back to the handle bar wanting to slap left or right.

Like everything, things are becoming very specific at what they are good at.

It's also a compensation for the alpha skid, Cat has the ultimate mountain skid but as long as they keep two skis in front of it, it's handicapped from going to the next level of riding :(

That's just a little friendly dig :)

The riots set back is more planted for cornering, less feed back, less flotation, less nimbleness but it's planted.

Added

Doo has an example no one's talking about.
You can now add the t motion to one that doesn't have it. Why ? Because it's more nimble
A lot of people deleted it but now people can add it.
I did the lock out to hers to see if I'm missing something since people do it
She did not like it, more work taking out then putting in :)
Works for some but not others.
What was so broadly complained about is silently making a come back because it makes some a better rider or more fun depending how you look at it.
 
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Many remove carbides unless in frozen lake country, run a smooth hard weld skag, won’t hang up on logs and rocks, also if you’re feeling right to left darting like you’re describing your skis may need adjustment.
 
Current ski is compared to grippers, I have a good collection in my garage. We run all Mohawks, they float the front end better in powder and especially divey unpredictable snow.
 
Many remove carbides unless in frozen lake country, run a smooth hard weld skag, won’t hang up on logs and rocks, also if you’re feeling right to left darting like you’re describing your skis may need adjustment.
I have a good set of SLP hard weld runners to whoever wants them for the shipping!

My 2021 came with hard weld bars on it. I gave them a shot for about 1/2 a season and I went back to carbides. I've caught one rock in my years of sledding that hung up and popped the top ball joint, but I still want the steering ability. I don't ride low snow conditions though either.
 
I complained just a little about it being darty and grqbby on the trail but was told that’s just mountain sleds. I won’t lie I don’t really like the feeling lol. You say it’ll help if I just take off the carbide gizmos? Assuming the factory ones are carbides? I had all the Mohawk stuff in a “kart” and thought I’d never be able to justify (skill level wise) the 800 plus bucks . Rather buy a carbon helmet so my necks not stuck and sore lol
 
It's never a bad idea to check your ski alignment.

Coutry Cat will sell you a set of Mohawks through Arctic Cat for about $450 for white and $475 for black, but that doesn't include the wearbars/carbides. Otherwise I'm seeing about $675 direct from SLP (plus shipping I'm sure).
 
Should be able to re-use the rubbers if yours are low-mile. All the parts are sold individually through SLP. The only thing that comes as a set are the wearbars.

As IDspud said, I would try to find a vendor that is willing to give you a package price.
 
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