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Ski-Doo 2017 Rev G4 Belt Issues Read This!

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Things have gone from ok to troublesome for me. Bouncing between Revy and mount baker with some lighter snow and some Cascade concrete. About to hit 800 miles and 5 belts down. I always catch them pulling cord and switch out before they detonate. These are broken in belts that I run up the trail and take off and then run down the trail a few days before their execution date. Clutches are always clean, all foam removed...pre filter vent kit installed.

Going from bottomless blower light snow where the track can free spin to wet heavy snow my first observation was that the rpm stayed the same and track speed dropped ~7mph = slippage.

Currently in Revy everyone is all about drilling out the clutch cover. Like stated above there is so little room between the side panel when it's closed and the clutch cover I don't see any major improvement in air flow. And the foam holds water and creates steam but removing it is not going to drastically increase airflow.

Meanwhile in southern OR we have buddies that have found seized rollers in the primary.

Regarding alignment has anyone else looked through the service manual? I only had brief minute but did not even see an alignment bar listed under the service tools and all the specs for offset and pully distance are "not adjustable" so you always have to wonder how there can be such a variance between sleds.

Other than emotional trauma from checking my belt a dozen times daily this sled is beyond amazing. It does things down in the trees where it's stupid deep that I still don't understand.
 
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Hope some one is making a good clutchkit werry soon, all ski doo i have oned the stock setup sucks. The problem is not only the foam and felt. And mabe the upper gear is low,
 
the flatlanders are having no issues at all with belts on their shorties, which more than likely means its a gearing/clutch calibration issue. Im sure in the next couple weeks there will be some improvements from aftermarket
 
Things have gone from ok to troublesome for me. Bouncing between Revy and mount baker with some lighter snow and some Cascade concrete. About to hit 800 miles and 5 belts down. I always catch them pulling cord and switch out before they detonate. These are broken in belts that I run up the trail and take off and then run down the trail a few days before their execution date. Clutches are always clean, all foam removed...pre filter vent kit installed.

Going from bottomless blower light snow where the track can free spin to wet heavy snow my first observation was that the rpm stayed the same and track speed dropped ~7mph = slippage.

Currently in Revy everyone is all about drilling out the clutch cover. Like stated above there is so little room between the side panel when it's closed and the clutch cover I don't see any major improvement in air flow. And the foam holds water and creates steam but removing it is not going to drastically increase airflow.

Meanwhile in southern OR we have buddies that have found seized rollers in the primary.

Regarding alignment has anyone else looked through the service manual? I only had brief minute but did not even see an alignment bar listed under the service tools and all the specs for offset and pully distance are "not adjustable" so you always have to wonder how there can be such a variance between sleds.

Other than emotional trauma from checking my belt a dozen times daily this sled is beyond amazing. It does things down in the trees where it's stupid deep that I still don't understand.

800 miles and its December??? lucky bugger
 
I've said it before, but Skidoo NEEDS to quit clutching their MOUNTAIN SLEDS ( AKA Summit) for the few folks that buy and ride them in the Midwest.

I know I'm tired of dumping $500-1000 in clutch parts into a machine to get it to run properly and not have clutch temps that'll give a person 3rd degree burns if your not careful.
 
There is a reason Cat struggled with their clutches and belts for as long as they did, it's an art, plain and simple. People that think there is a quick fix for this may be in it for the long haul. Complete fixes may not come until the next model year or beyond. We may see some mods from the SxS realm start to appear (if they have room), racers were doing center vents off the secondary of their Mavericks way before Can Am started doing it from the factory.

Maverick Clutch Cover.JPG
 
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There is a reason Cat struggled with their clutches and belts for as long as they did, it's an art, plain and simple. People that think there is a quick fix for this may be in it for the long haul. Complete fixes may not come until the next model year or beyond. We may see some mods from the SxS realm start to appear (if they have room), racers were doing center vents off the secondary of their Mavericks way before Can Am started doing it from the factory.



http://www.maverickforums.net/forum...score-factory-can-am-maverick-race-build.html



It's not magic and the reason some struggle is because they don't want to fix the problem.
SXS clutching is a lot different then a sled due to weight and summer temperatures .
This day and age and belt problems with sleds is just complete ignorance on the manufacture as far as I am concerned.
 
200 plus miles on mine!!!

I'm not going to discount that there may be a few that have some problems with their sled but all I know is what mine is doing and the others that I am riding with.

My sled is flat ripping!!! I came from an xm and it was honestly one of the best running sleds I have ever owned. never had a single issue with it.

So far my 850 is just the same....with the exception that it has so much more pull and puts a !@#$ eating grin on my face every time I hit the hammer in the trees or the steeps. No belt issues, nothing out of the ordinary. I had an 08 and an 09 and those years there were major issues across the board. Hopefully for those that are experiencing problems you, skidoo or your dealer can figure them out but I think that Skidoo finally hit the jackpot for a stock sled that can give you everything that you are looking for in a sled.

I'm hitting the hills again in the morning and as you can see I can't sleep because i'm like a kid in a candy store!!!!

Way to go Ski Doo!!!!!
 
I think everyone should buy an aftermarket skid because the t motion could break. Get aftermarket a arms because they might bend to easy and save a bulkhead. Then buy a brace kit so you can ride with little to no snow and ride over more rocks, trees, etc. There was one that seized so I would put some aftermarket pistons in it just in case it turns out to be a problem. Next I would do, my all time favorite, cut your hood and side panels up like Swiss cheese and put as many vents as you can get. If this doesn't work, and Yellowstone park doesn't blow, sell it for half price and snow check another for next year. Maybe they will have something that works by then.
 
I think everyone should buy an aftermarket skid because the t motion could break. Get aftermarket a arms because they might bend to easy and save a bulkhead. Then buy a brace kit so you can ride with little to no snow and ride over more rocks, trees, etc. There was one that seized so I would put some aftermarket pistons in it just in case it turns out to be a problem. Next I would do, my all time favorite, cut your hood and side panels up like Swiss cheese and put as many vents as you can get. If this doesn't work, and Yellowstone park doesn't blow, sell it for half price and snow check another for next year. Maybe they will have something that works by then.


Another option is to quite bitching and whining and go ride and have fun.
 
Put on another 50mi today. Spent the whole time in hood deep pow, sidehilling, carving, climbing and hardly stopping at all. Sled rocks and clutches are working great.
 
Wondering if the gearing maybe the issue. Every summit has 19 / 45
and when you run the numbers a 1:1 ratio gives you 66.33 and overdrive would be 78.04. If you are using the whole primary clutch then you are in the overdrive portion from what I was told. Where if you are 3/4 from the top of the sleeve then you are 1:1. You can check this by marking your inner and outer sheaves with a Sharpie. Sounds like there is too much gearing for stock sleds.

Are 154s not going through belts as bad as 165?

That would be a good thing to know and would help with a solution.
 
Well I have done all the mods to mine from brand new. just finished break in yesterday. I had the belt off before the last ride and belt was in good shape. A hour after I finished my break in yesterday I blew my belt. I thought for sure I wasn't going to be one of the ones to have issues. Hopefully ski doo steps it up and figures this out or it's going to be an expensive season on belts. Mine had 228 miles on it when it blew
 
Well I have done all the mods to mine from brand new. just finished break in yesterday. I had the belt off before the last ride and belt was in good shape. A hour after I finished my break in yesterday I blew my belt. I thought for sure I wasn't going to be one of the ones to have issues. Hopefully ski doo steps it up and figures this out or it's going to be an expensive season on belts. Mine had 228 miles on it when it blew

I did the same prep and now pulling a cord @ 150 mi
 
All the venting and clutch cover mods do not help. Despite all the "sponsored" folks telling us they do.

Doo has a component issue, bad weight profile, bad spring combo or multiple in my opinion.

Yes it does help. I guess it depends on who's sled it is too. 220 miles of pretty hard riding here and no belt issues. IMO the engine mounts are flexing on some sleds causing misalignment.
 
All the venting and clutch cover mods do not help. Despite all the "sponsored" folks telling us they do.

Doo has a component issue, bad weight profile, bad spring combo or multiple in my opinion.
Agreed, it comes up every year. Venting, removing foam, plugging holes and all that stuff does not fix a belt blowing issue from poor alignment, oil/grease on clutches, improperly spec'd clutching, or poor components. Never has, never will.

Where that stuff helps - is if your clutching is otherwise good, but you ride aggressively for longer periods of time, where heat is going to build even with perfect clutching. That's it.
 
Agreed, it comes up every year. Venting, removing foam, plugging holes and all that stuff does not fix a belt blowing issue from poor alignment, oil/grease on clutches, improperly spec'd clutching, or poor components. Never has, never will.

Where that stuff helps - is if your clutching is otherwise good, but you ride aggressively for longer periods of time, where heat is going to build even with perfect clutching. That's it.

SPOT ON!


Ace
 
Blew a belt with 85 miles total on sled and first 24 were easy flatland miles intended to break in belt and make sure the sled functions. The snow that fell into the clutches when opening the clutch cover was instantly vaporized into steam and despite 5 below Temps took about 20 minutes to be able to touch anything. Rotating the clutch initially to get cords off resulted in melting part of my glove. Phenomenal sled otherwise, hope there is a solution soon. Sled is a 165 with 3 inch track and NO mods other than a shorter riser and better grips.
 
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