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Silber turbo update map

Another thing..If you have anything connected to the 12V plug by the headlight unplug it and try the sled again. We have a confirmed case of a sled that when something is plugged into that port the sled runs like crap. We have not isolated exactly why but it is consistent.
 
Another thing..If you have anything connected to the 12V plug by the headlight unplug it and try the sled again. We have a confirmed case of a sled that when something is plugged into that port the sled runs like crap. We have not isolated exactly why but it is consistent.

I had an aftermarket heated throttle block hooked up to that 12v plug by the headlight and it ran fine on the trail, but had several other issues. It was hard to start, wouldn't idle well, frequently died when trying to put it in reverse. and would bog a lot in deep pow. unplugging the throttle block fixed the issue.
 
What in the pictures i posted lead you to that conclusion? What type of damage would typically be caused by excessive intake charge temps? What do you feel is excessive?
I said very high intake temps! Image #1 left hand reed. See the bubbling on the reed possible high heat.
 
What it looks like to me is that on some sleds the reeds open up far enough to hit the cylinder casting....Seeing as how the only damaged reeds are on the top and its only the tips. This is about the sixth set I have pulled out with only damage to the upper reed tips.

Is it possible that once they get fatigued they get flimsy and open up to far? Any reed valve experts want to chime in? I am all ears if there is something better out there.
 
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I concur, but convincing customers of that is tough. I did notice both those sets also only damaged the upper pedals. I wonder why they do that?

That's because we read about to many "pull the rope" turbo kits.

I think your right about the top pedals. I believe somebody has a reed stopper that's supposed to help with this. I just don't remember who???
 
That's because we read about to many "pull the rope" turbo kits.

I think your right about the top pedals. I believe somebody has a reed stopper that's supposed to help with this. I just don't remember who???

I know when I sell a "pull the rope" kit I am referring to the tuning and no tinkering aspect. Maintenance is another thing all together. I consider reed replacement a maintenance item but the turbo does seem to shorten the life expectancy.

So who has a cylinder off the sled and can measure the distance from the reed tip to the top of the cage?If thats whats happening a reed stop should be a simple fix. I thought HM turbos sold one a while back but can't remember.

I bet the culprit of a lot of the problems are reed related, On a side note I tried the WPS replacement reeds and after 100 mile it split the reed up the middle just like the one above. I may try a set of the new Vforce reeds as they have stoppers built in and they claim the pedals are as strong or stronger than stock.
 
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Well on top of the reeds opening and closing at least a 100 times a second, the fuel that passes by them softens the resin that is used to manufacture the pedal, which also causes damage. Maybe more fuel is pulled up? And maybe the fuels we use accelerate this process? Also add in some extra heat from the turbo...
 
reed life has to be directly related to boost pressure. on my 13 i put 900 miles on stock the first year i had it. installed the silber turbo and put another 900 miles on all at 7 psi. i pulled my reeds a few weeks ago and they didnt look anywhere close to as bad of shape as any of the reeds pictured above. especially since they had 1800 total miles and half of those at 7 psi. almost could have re used them, but i replaced them with new anyway.
 
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