As for the rough run you guys experience after a restart i suspect it is same as mine. Happens after being rode and parked for 10-15 min. This is because the tmap sensor is still heat soaked from underhood temps and the engine sucks in fresh cold air when restarted. Which causes incorrect fueling. This happens because the tmap sensor doesnt stick out far enough into direct flowing air. Charge temps read by the tmap in this kit arent 100% accurate. The tube the tmap is in is too long. That being said if your sled is running good the rest of the time i wouldnt cut it shorter cause it will probably run worse while riding. The mapping is tuned to it mounted where it is. But it does fix the 10-15 sec rough start up after riding.
Silber turbo update map
- Thread starter bk720
- Start date
Cool...How were you able to diagnose that the T-map was the culprit?
This might help some of the other people.
The cold start is just the nature of big injectors until it warms up just enough to stabalize idle and voltage. its really hard to have super evenly metered fuel when your playing around with 1000cc injectors with a stone cold sled and fluctuating voltage right around an injectors turn on point. The reflashed ones i have done are all pretty much stock acting for startup unless its below like 15 degrees then they act like you described for a second as they warm up, the idle stabilizes and voltage evens out.
As for the clutching. Check the primary cover bushing, I have seen when they get botch on reassembly (pink spring is hard to install by yourself) it works killer on the trail and just flat sucks it hard when you get in the deep snow.
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doobie
Active member
had it hooked to the bully dog controller. it would read 12psi baro (which is default on bd display) other times it would read 13.2psi baro which is corect for my area. sled would run like garbage on a stand or putting around my yard. swapped t map with my buddies silber bd sled and problem solved. when they read wrong baro they seem to dump fuel in. not sure if that helps but it helped me. keep in mind i havnt got to really pour the piss to it yet since i just did the reflash upgrade.
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Bullydog doesnt even use baro for mapping. Baro and boost is just assumed for reference purposes. The ecu assumes that at idle it is barometric pressure and any increase in absolute pressure when the throttle is moved is boost. Absolute is what mapping is done against. This is direct info from bullydog.
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doobie
Active member
ok then, my 3 bar wasnt working as it should (something besides baro i guess). when i put the new one on it read baro on the bd. i guess if anything its a good way to see if the 3 bar is working on all aspects. it read intake temp and boost fine just not baro. for the 30$ it costs....
According to my source at Polaris, the stock ECM/ECU only uses the initial baro reading (input) at first engine start up and then doesn't use this info/input again until the engine is shut off and restarted.
So what this means is as our sleds change in altitude's during an engine start cycle, even though the baro may be reporting the updated info (baro changes) the stock ECM/ECU base map is still using the baro reading from the last engine start. So if your ride happens to change say 3,000 ft in altitude, the map is still using the baro setting from the initial engine start up.
When the engine is shut down and restarted, the baro is then updated and the initial map starts again.
From my testing of the DCI-2 ECM/ECU, this module does not have the ability to be updated on the fly by the baro sensor. I learned this when testing big bores that were having runnability issues on the ride up the mountain. Restart the engine immediately and issue went away.
No, you are/were correct which is why I asked how you were able to diag your issue. Your Baro was reporting 12.0 PSI at engine start-up and even though it might change to 13.2 PSI later, the base ECM map was using the first reading it was receiving.
I would have been interested in your case if this was a Baro sensor that was actually defective OR was it an issue of your sled's DC voltage being a little low at engine start up and the replacement baro sensor is drawing a little less power.
The nerd in me is curious if you happened to try the affected sensor in the good running sled?
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I tried my setup with fresh new plugs, fresh new fuel and cleaned up the clutch. I pulled the clutch off and completely cleaned it out. Rollers looked ok, spring looked ok, weights were fine. It was dirty though so it needed a good cleaning.
Sled still runs very rich. After running for an hour or so I couldn't even get it into reverse as the sled seemed so rich down low. I'm really curious with BostonRacing and the Silber guys have going because this is not fun. I really hope I'm doing something stupid and can resolve this but so far no luck.
Sled still runs very rich. After running for an hour or so I couldn't even get it into reverse as the sled seemed so rich down low. I'm really curious with BostonRacing and the Silber guys have going because this is not fun. I really hope I'm doing something stupid and can resolve this but so far no luck.
Rich Idle can be cause by reeds. I am replacing a set in a 14 tomorrow that has similar symptoms. It can also be caused by the TPS being out of adjustment.
if your sled runs bad enough it wont go into reverse. theres something other then the tuning. I agree the tuning doesn't meet my expectations but it isn't near bad enough to cause it ti not go in reverse. I second checking reeds and tps adjustment, plus compression.
This is a '13 correct? How many miles on it?
Cory might be right about reeds and or TPS. I'm also thinking your rings might be worn out.
Interesting, seems like everything but the turbo. I guess I'll start tearing down to the reeds and borrow a friends TPS tool.
I know its frustrating but we have yet to isolate one that wasn't related to something else. Justin is planning a trip to the snowies soon and I will let you guys know so you can meet us up there. I have a problem one that I am going to work to isolate when Silber is out here and will report back what I find.
There are still sleds out there ripping with the old map and mine was one of them. I never ran the updated one myself because there wasn't a need too. We are looking at alternatives to allow people to compensate for something that isn't quite right on the sled but have been reluctant because its really just a band aid. We have several people on the forum that met up with Justin last year at Togwotee and West Yellowstone and all of them left happy with good running sleds without ever touching the mapping. These problems were related to Primary clutches/springs, Powervalves sticking, Spark Plug gap, Low fuel pressure , Chipped reeds and TPS sensors. Your symptoms of low idle and rich condition point to either reeds or TPS. The fuel mapping is exactly the same for all sleds so there is something that is causing one not to idle while others do.
What is that primary spring? The pink one...I might just buy one for good measure. Was that an SLP spring? I don't remember what bag I took it out of.
the one that came with my kit was a pink team spring
Its a team Pink or Orange. The kits have come with both but I prefer the Pink for Colorado.
Perfect example of what I am talking about. I have a customer who said the sled wouldn't idle right, go into reverse. What we found could certainly cause a bog.
Here is what we found
And a quick after video of the throttle response and it idling. I know people automatically assume the turbo to be at fault but sometimes it is actually general maintenance items or Polaris problems.
