The weird thing about this is that it was doing the same thing stock. I had the tps adjusted because the dealership thought that was the problem, but its doing it again. It ONLY happens at high elevation. At home it ran great both stock and with silbers turbo set up. Could there be a sensor that is not working right when the sled is brought to high elevation? I know for sure it is not the kit.
silber turbo help
- Thread starter dyllaboy
- Start date
I thought they all idled bad at elevation, I know my brand new kit idles great at my house at 6000' but put it at 10000' and it idles like crap. I simply don't understand how that could be sled related but not kit related, especially when so many others say the same thing. Also, it sounds like others that have had this issue and then switched controllers (mostly heard about boost-it, but maybe we will hear the same about the power commander shortly) didn't have the issue with the new controller, nothing else changed on the sled. SO how could that not be kit related. I'm not trying to be an *** just trying to figure this thing out.
V
Vi-PEC Powersports
Well-known member
if you have no other symptoms other then a idling problem at elevation, you need to open a bit more the throttle plate for more air to go in at idle at elevation, the engine is starving for the lack of oxygen at elevation.
Agreed, mine idled low and varied between 1400 and 1800. Had my TPS set a bit high and now it idles at 2100 but it stays at 2100 without any fluctuations.
Frisco, did yours idle good at low elevation but not at high elevation before the tps adjustment? I just find it weird that people that had the issue and changed controllers but nothing else solved the idle issue. Maybe it really is just a tps issue. Precision, do you have these issues with your vipec and have to adjust the tps to the very top end of spec to get your's to idle well?
I am going to put a small battery in and hook it to the sleds charge circuit. Then hook up all my turbo electronics to a fused block from the battery. Then if that doesnt cure it then i can be sure its not turbo kit related.
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Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2
I never run it at low elevation to notice a change sorry.
How do you go about opening the throttle plate? It will idle fine after a few minutes of riding, but right when you start it up in the morning or whenever throughout the day it will idle at 1400 or lower and then the screen will start shutting off. It did this stock too. It will idle perfect at 1800 after a few minutes of riding so if I adjust the throttle plate won't it also increase the idle when it idles fine? I believe its a calibration problem with the ecu or efi related since it is not properly adjusting for the lack of oxygen. Or could it be related to a faulty stock O2 sensor? I know people are having problems after installing the silber kit, but aren't most people installing them on new sleds that haven't been ridden stock?
Sam, I have been running a vipec on my 12 pro with a 13 Siberia kit for the last week. I also got mine from Cody and it has been working great. He removed in and made a couple changes after some data logging and has been working perfectly ever since. Good luck and have fun with it.
Sorry kinda butchered some spelling there. But I think you'll get the point.
I'm convinced this is a non-turbo kit issue. A couple of us with stock '12's (pre-silber installs) are having this issue also. It's intermittent. The low idle causes the MFD to shut down (or flicker) because the ECM shuts off the chassis relay when it sees less than 900 RPM's. The RPM's then surge just a little with the relay clicking on-off-on off and dash flickering repectively. Sometimes just a little revving of the throttle a couple of times will make it go away.
This is not a throttle cable adjustment issue.
The service manual says to use the Digital Wrench to set the baseline voltage but does not give a real spec. I assume this is onlty to be set with the Digital Wrench not manually as it has been in previous CFI's. It only gives an idle spec of 0.93-0.95 volts. I have set mine to 0.947 volts with my $500 Blue-Point meter. I wonder if a different baseline setting than the CFI-4 Dragon (0.70 volts +/-.01 volts)
A real "in-field" throttle plate synchronization adjustment may be helpful as well. This may be where the problem lies.
75%-80% of the time the idle speed is okay.
V
Vi-PEC Powersports
Well-known member
we are not seeing these issues at all. as told previously in other threads, tps can be adjusted in 2 minutes with our software. from sea level to 10 000 ft , my personal sled was idling a bit low and that was previous to the new firmware realese(old fuel equation), so i had to open a tiny bit my throttle plate( about one and a half turn) and reset tps and it was idling fine(even by leaning it out while idling i couldn't have the sled to idle fine where i wanted.
V
Vi-PEC Powersports
Well-known member
This makes sense. The only problem is that my volts were at 0.95 and never moved a point and my throttle bodies were just synchronized. They could still be a little off though because the dealership synched them. And it doesn't come out of it until I ride it for a little bit. I hope we can all solve this problem, but until then I'll just keep bliping the throttle.
J
jetski
New member
i had the exact same problem in yellowstone a couple weeks ago, thought my sled was running great when i left from 1800 feet and then went up to elevation and it would do the idle surge problem and screw around, seemed very rich out of the hole to. anyone figure this out yet? i tried a new tps in yellowstone made zero difference.
O K, so after reading the Pro RMK service manual, studying the wiring diagrams, and with some help from a couple guys on this site, I think I may know how my sled will be fixed.
One guy with a '13 pro with a turbo replaced almost every electrical component on the sled and turbo kit and finally found the culprit. A bad fuel pump. It was pulling over 8 amps. He put in a new one and it pulled shade over 6 amps and his sled ran perfect. So i decided to check mine. It was pulling around 6.8-7.1 amps hooked to a battery that was at 12.25 volts. Not real bad. (I found the pump pulls more amps as the voltage goes down) So then I tried testing the voltage that the pump sees when I start the sled. When I started the sled it would only see around 7.8 volts at idle (1700rpm+or-), then when I gave it a little throttle it jumped to 12.5-12.8. I let it warm up and shut down, restart, shut down, restart, ect. Some times it would stay at 7.5 volts and sometimes it would go to 12.8 volts on start up. After warm up my idle was 1900-2100. So i think at elevation it probably doesn't idle as good and will idle lower increasing the chance that my voltage will be lower and stay low until I give it throttle to make it come up to 12.8.
Then I decided to unhook my AEM o2 sensor and checked for the amp draw on it. It checked out at 1.2 amps at peak. Then I unhooked the oil pump for the turbo and checked that. It was pulling 1.8 amps. Then I hooked the oil pump to a battery, left the o2 unplugged, and fired the sled. Bam!! 13.6 volts. Shut down, restart-bam! 13.6 volts.
So it seems that my fuel pump, while not too bad but slightly high amp draw, along with the o2 and oil pump has enough draw to make my electrical system have fits.
So I have a small 12v 4.5a/h battery, a painless wiring/fuse block kit, and a Polaris electric start harness coming. Another fella on here gave me the heads up on this mod. All my turbo electronics will run off the battery and the battery will be charged by the lighting coil/battery charge circuit.
Should have it installed next week, so we will see how it pans out......
One guy with a '13 pro with a turbo replaced almost every electrical component on the sled and turbo kit and finally found the culprit. A bad fuel pump. It was pulling over 8 amps. He put in a new one and it pulled shade over 6 amps and his sled ran perfect. So i decided to check mine. It was pulling around 6.8-7.1 amps hooked to a battery that was at 12.25 volts. Not real bad. (I found the pump pulls more amps as the voltage goes down) So then I tried testing the voltage that the pump sees when I start the sled. When I started the sled it would only see around 7.8 volts at idle (1700rpm+or-), then when I gave it a little throttle it jumped to 12.5-12.8. I let it warm up and shut down, restart, shut down, restart, ect. Some times it would stay at 7.5 volts and sometimes it would go to 12.8 volts on start up. After warm up my idle was 1900-2100. So i think at elevation it probably doesn't idle as good and will idle lower increasing the chance that my voltage will be lower and stay low until I give it throttle to make it come up to 12.8.
Then I decided to unhook my AEM o2 sensor and checked for the amp draw on it. It checked out at 1.2 amps at peak. Then I unhooked the oil pump for the turbo and checked that. It was pulling 1.8 amps. Then I hooked the oil pump to a battery, left the o2 unplugged, and fired the sled. Bam!! 13.6 volts. Shut down, restart-bam! 13.6 volts.
So it seems that my fuel pump, while not too bad but slightly high amp draw, along with the o2 and oil pump has enough draw to make my electrical system have fits.
So I have a small 12v 4.5a/h battery, a painless wiring/fuse block kit, and a Polaris electric start harness coming. Another fella on here gave me the heads up on this mod. All my turbo electronics will run off the battery and the battery will be charged by the lighting coil/battery charge circuit.
Should have it installed next week, so we will see how it pans out......