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Series 6 2.6

I paid 820$ for my series 6 2.6
Anybody have any advice for clutching this thing. I'll be running an 858 big bore along with this track. I'll be geared down so I'm thinking a helix change will be in order.

Where did you find it for that price?
 
I believe there are 9 holes in the brake disk that the speed sensor works off of. Has anyone successfully closed off one of these holes to reduce the speedometer output to 8/9ths of its original reading in order to get the speedo a little closer after gearing?

In my 16 163x3 axys owners manual it mentions if you change the gearing that the dealer can reprogram the gauge to read correctly.
 
What's the weight difference between the 2.4 and the 2.6 knowing that the 2.6 is 46 pounds?

I found and old post on here from mountainhorse and the 2.4 weighed 46 lbs also. But polaris claims the 2.6 is 2 lbs lighter than the 2.4.
 
Different years... probably some small differences/refinements in tracks...

Only way to tell... put a new 2015 series 5.1 and a new 2016 series 6 on the SAME digital scale...
 
A question:

if one was wanting to run the new series 7 tracks on chaincase Assaults or RMK's and use the smaller drivers, it will require the chain case be modified to provide clearance for the track, this still holds true correct?
 
That is correct...

You must cut/patch/weld the chaincase to clear the track... it comes in contact with the chaincase with 7 tooth drivers.

You have to remove the skid, track, brake rotor/caliper, chaicase cover, gears, drive shaft and de-bond the chaincase from the bulkhead...and do the mod... then re-bond the case to the bulkhead using the Lords-406 adhesive.

This is NOT true, however, on QuickDrive™ (Belt Drive) equipped 2013-15 sleds.... there is no clearance issue on these models for 7 tooth drivers.

From a previous thread:
an 7-tooth, 3" pitch driver gives about .3" additional lug-tip clearance with the same track... ie.. a 2.86" pitch 2.5" lug CE track with 8t drivers will have .3" less clearance than the 3" pitch 2.5" lug CE trck with 7t drivers.

You will need to remove and modify the chaincase to allow for the 7t drivers however.... FTX has these cases on Exchange with the mod done or will do to yours on request.

You will also need to get the adhesive and gun to bond the case back onto the tunnel (important)

Skadi:Since Allen was doing my skid swap I thought I would have him do my track swap as well. I decided to go with the new Peaks track from Camoplast and it wasn't quite as simple as just a track swap for me!! Due to some of the conditions we're forced to ride in here in the beautiful Northwest we thought it best to give my sled just a little more clearance through the tunnel. The 2.5" track with the stock drivers was TIGHT!! Allen and Curt with Fastrax and Eric (Mtnhorse) thought long and hard about the BEST way to go about this. There were a few ideas and we decided to go with the cheapest first since we all know we're all watching our pocketbooks these days!! The solution was to mill out a portion of the chaincase so that smaller drivers could fit! Easy!! (well, easy for a shop like Fastrax to do!!) Curt advised Allen on the best way to do this so that it could be done quickly but in the future if I need to do this I will send it to Curt as he's getting himself fully set up to have this milled and to turn it around quickly!


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Also...When moving to smaller drivers... you will need to keep an eye on the track nubs rubbing on the top of the front arm of the rear suspension.

Also... even when you run new Avid Extroverts.. you need to run factory tension on the track... loose tracks don't run well as correctly tightened tracks... and dont last as long.

From another thread.
Wahl Brothers... $47 ... popular with the 7tooth driver crowd.

http://www.wahlracing.com/product.php?productid=19740&cat=319

"Track Carrier"



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Just wondering if anybody's checked if these are rubbing.

The only place that shaft could go would be 1 3/8" in front of front of torque arm. It might be close when rails come to top. But how come no one else installs these when doing a 7 tooth driver.

Is there any other spot that it wouldn't hit susp. arms?




FF, I can see where your confusion comes from... but NO WORRIES.

It goes aft of the front suspension arm... The wheels are almost out to the edge of the shaft... maybe 3/4" in from the inside of the tunnel.

Remember that the down tubes of the front swing arm of the rear suspension taper inward towards the rails... and that there is a space between there and the tunnel.

The cross shaft of the Wahl track carrier mounts aft of there and the swing arm does not come into contact with it.

You can see in the photo where Allen Mangum of Timbersled products mounted this "Track Carrier" in his sled...The red arrow points out the button head 316SS screw used to mount the shaft in the tunnel.

ALL 7 tooth driver equipped sleds that have the stock suspension and drive train will rub on the wear bars on the arm...Weather people see it or not...It's there.

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And to pre-empt the question "Why doesn't the AXYS-mountian need this?"

Simple answer... the AXYS sled mounts the skid lower in the tunnel, front and rear.... and has the corresponding tall spindles in the front to balance things out.









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Did the 11/12 Pros require the chaincase modification for the smaller drivers too? I'm looking at an 11 Assault that has a 3" and the owner says nothing was done to the chaincase, they have the 7 tooth drivers, this surprised me, I thought it was required for all years 11 on up?

Thanks
 
Did the 11/12 Pros require the chaincase modification for the smaller drivers too? I'm looking at an 11 Assault that has a 3" and the owner says nothing was done to the chaincase, they have the 7 tooth drivers, this surprised me, I thought it was required for all years 11 on up?

Thanks

Yes. I did mine and the track would rub on the chaincase if not. Get a look underneath next time you see it. And look at the inside edge of the track on the right side.

RS
 
Thanks guys I'll take a look under there when I see the sled. Sounded kind of fishy to me!
 
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