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Sanding needles?

I

icr

Well-known member
I have a lean spot at 6K RPM but my jetting is good everywhere else. If I lower the clip it's good at 6K but too rich everywhere else. My local dealer said there isn't a better needle for my set up. Has anyone sanded their needles to achieve richer jetting at a specific point? Any advice?
 
Sounds alot like my old ultra was. I still think the problem with was the timing curve. Right at 6000rpm it had a huge shift in timing. Good luck getting it right.
 
That's the way my Summit mod is! Tried a .20 shim (1/2 clip) and too rich EVERYWHERE else. I've just learned to not hang that rpm range too long.
 
yeah, thats where most sleds have a way lean spot for EPA regs....

its a timing thing that cant really be gotten around otherwise.

like motley said, just feather the throttle there. if i hang about 6000 rpm on my sled EGT's hit 1150 and mine RARLEY goes above 1100 full throttle, so yeah, just feather in the middle and your golden.
 
Sanding needles

I have done it before and did have good results in the end fixed the lean spot I had in the mid range at about 6-6500. The problem is I went through about 4 sets of needles before I got it right. It is very hard to know the exact spot that you need to sand so once you figure out where the sweet spot is then it will work, also hard to know how much to sand down the needle. But I have done it and did get it to work! I put the needle in a drill press and marked it each time where to sand and measured it with a set of calipers to get it just right. once I found the sweet spot and figured out how much to sand it worked good!

Good luck!!
 
I've been feathering to avoid a burn down but I don't want to ride staring at my EGTs and hoping I don't seize a piston. I'd rather burn through a few sets of needles and a sheet of sand paper.

If anyone else has ideas/advice I'd appreciate it. Otherwise my needles are getting a new shape tomorrow.
 
Chart

The chart Spring Snow has posted will get you started. Only problem is that it stops at series 7 needles which are shorter than the series 9s that are used in the snow carbs. Use it as a referance and then look to this chart to see if you can buy the needle that you need from a snow manufacturer, This list is mostly series 9s.
 

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Mark your throttle where you want to richen it (in the field).

Back at the shop, pull the carbs off (throttle cable still attached). Tape the throttle at the correct spot and mark the needles from the front (outlet), right where they exit the needle jet (not the hood on the back of the needle jet)

Pull the needles, and just file a very small flat (works fine and more acurate) below that mark. Doesnt take much.

Use to do it lots when tuning hot 2-stroke ice racing bikes where you need to use the midrange to control the slide. Did it to my 800 Doos to make them live too.

Geo
 
For many years I have wrapped my handle bar under the throttle lever with white tape and then cut a index mark on the throttle and marked on the tape for 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and full throttle. Make those marks with the carbs off and measure the slide height with a snap gauge. Gives a real good clue about where jetting is off using the EGT's.

My new DT200 touch screen digital gauge is the way to go, reads everything including TPS in %, for TurboAl you can even put a pressure sensor in the exhaust for pipe pressure, Skinz just bought one of these gauges for that very reason for developing cans with the correct backpressure.

Good Luck

Great instructions with filing the flat, thats going in my 3 ring carb manual!!!!

Thanks

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sanding for SPEED?

just got done sanding two sets for my pals 02 800 mod sled Sunday afternoon.

went through my 9 length needle selection , had about 10 sets..........so needed to sort out and find a couple of set that will never see gas again and use them for the new mod needles.

1. take your stock needle at the area that's too lean and put a veneral caliper ( old mech joke ) your best stainless venier or dial caliper on that spot and lock in place. Now start testing the needle to mod and see if it will slide down further than the stock needle........ok sit and think, if it slide down further its SMALLER AND RICHER !! won't slide down as far its FATTER AROUND AND LEANER.

2. Now you know where you need to be, a needle that's smaller and slides down a little further, going to be leaner. Don't worry that much about the actual measruement unless you have good micrometers and know how to use them, if you do about .0015 ( say one and a half thousandsth ) at the critical area will give you on site noticable feels richer running. I sanded a set so when dropped in next to the stock neddles, the sanded needles slid about 4 clip notch's further down through the caliper. Then of course sand a match up a set.........well maybe not if one side always runs richer........oh crap.....like a boonie box, its getting complicated.
Don't worry, aint as big a change as you migh think.

3. What I have found on the 9 series ( FLAT RACK MOUNTED MIKUNI SNOWMOBILE CARBS IS)

Most issues are around the 1/5 to 1/3 range, and that's the first letter.
Cats you find a lot of 9DH6-59 in that area. The mikuni book and charts rate these needles by OVERALL RICH OR LEANNESS, meaning when you subject some of the supposedly richer needles to the caliper test you find that thay are lean in the bottom and just have a skinney end.........where in the upper end of throttle opening any idiot with a main jet can compensate.
You need that first straight section most of the times, just below the clip notch's smaller in diameteer to pass more fuel and be richer. Its usually the modest speed / very small throttle opening thats lean and needs gas and when you view your needles just crawling up out of that needle jet, you see that fat lean section of the needle screwing with you.
If you have a 9EH or 9FHY etc you can measure that small difference between the d/e/h needles and it's less than a .0005.
And after accumulating lots of $25 needles with bigger letters that didn't cure lean conditons I began sanding.

So.....when you want to see some richer piston saving deto avoidance jetting, hunting up lots of needles is usually not going to do the trick!!
The 2nd 3rd and 4th letters indicate how much bigger or small your mid and upper mid range is going to be.................and I''ve found you can fairly easily adjust that with your main jets for almost any of the really different oddball letter and tapers that all seem to be not that different in mid and upper ranges or only a couple of jet changes different.

Sunday I used a corless drill, 180 grit to knock some off and 400 grit to put a polish on the needles..........just seemed like I ought to polish them ?

Years back I was told by the great tuners never to file Mikuni needles cause they were special hard anodized, once you broke that surface they would'nd wear and............ awh bullcit. When I wanted custom needles for my yzf250, they came made of .......BRASS? maybe they were hard anodized by a special method unknow to us guys? Your needle jets are brass.......just another old wives tale.

So when we planted this new set of UNCLE MIKE'S custom made needles in Keith's rompin stompin 800 with the lean spot it knocked about 150 degrees out of the low mid...... well......just a few toots around the shop. Got another really skinny set to try, won't get that sled on the snow for another 10 days, but it'll be fun to see what happens. Still got the stockers so we can burn down the old girl anytime we feel like it. So......go to the woods with your sandpaper, your stock needles in case you make this thing a flushing toilet, and experiment.

Any time you pickup sandpaper you done left science behind and are entering the world of ART. This all works..... cause jetting is an art, good jetting is a thing of beauty, so with some sandpaper and stick of aluminum you got the whole world ahead of you.
 
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Excellent info guys, thanks.

CATSLEDMAN1 you nailed it on the head. I'm running the "high alt" needle but the "low alt" needle is actually leaner right around 1/4 throttle where I have a lean spot. Thus my desire to do irrepairable damage to my needles with sand paper.
 
Just a follow up. I tried another set of needles that were supposed to be "the fix" for this set up...it richened the lean spot to a tolerable EGT temp, but was rich everywhere else...no good.

I hand sanded my needles a couple times with no noticeable difference...so I started putting them into a cordless drill and spinning them while holding the sand paper...this worked faster but still not fast enough.

So I got out the trusty old flat file and went to town. Now my lean spot is gone at sea level so I may have gone too far. I need to get back to the mountains to test this new needle profile but at least I've nailed down the correct area to remove material from and the fastest way to do it.
 
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