^^Yeah, run Amsoil! Or a better oil, we saw dramatic clutch temp drops running Amsoil though. Another thing, Al Bakers XR's only makes a big fin kit where you send your cylinder in and they will weld on longer fins. Other than that, it's just the nature of the beast with a big, air cooled thumper! Baker also sells a thermometer dipstick to keep an eye on oil temps, good cheap insurance. A Cyra fender with the vent holes in the back helps a bit too.
Sand, Dirt, Mud forum? ...and I have a dirt bike question
- Thread starter MPS
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go faster!!!
B
Bkinz
Well-known member
That sounds like an idea that just might work, other than the bolt is REALLY on their.
Thanks,
Brad
I assume that you are unable to grab the head of the drain bolt to loosten it right?
Or does it spin with stripped threads?
Not sure how easily it is to drill a drain plug, but if possible, you could drill it and use an easy out. A left handed drill may catch and spin it out while drilling?
If threads need repaired, I would use a "time cert" or similar... If it is a 10mm hole, you drill it to 12mm, install a steel countersunk time cert and still use the 10mm bolt... This way you have steel threads
Like I said earlier, be sure it is drilled square to the case.
As for the overheating issue, along with the oil, be sure your jetting is on and that you are not running lean in all or part of the rpm range.
You could also add an oil cooler if it does not have one.
Or does it spin with stripped threads?
Not sure how easily it is to drill a drain plug, but if possible, you could drill it and use an easy out. A left handed drill may catch and spin it out while drilling?
If threads need repaired, I would use a "time cert" or similar... If it is a 10mm hole, you drill it to 12mm, install a steel countersunk time cert and still use the 10mm bolt... This way you have steel threads
Like I said earlier, be sure it is drilled square to the case.As for the overheating issue, along with the oil, be sure your jetting is on and that you are not running lean in all or part of the rpm range.
You could also add an oil cooler if it does not have one.
B
Bkinz
Well-known member
I assume that you are unable to grab the head of the drain bolt to loosten it right?
Or does it spin with stripped threads?
Not sure how easily it is to drill a drain plug, but if possible, you could drill it and use an easy out. A left handed drill may catch and spin it out while drilling?
If threads need repaired, I would use a "time cert" or similar... If it is a 10mm hole, you drill it to 12mm, install a steel countersunk time cert and still use the 10mm bolt... This way you have steel threads
As for the overheating issue, along with the oil, be sure your jetting is on and that you are not running lean in all or part of the rpm range.
You could also add an oil cooler if it does not have one.
It does not spin at all. I have also thought about drilling it, but I makes me worry about the case. Whether or not i might hit it and screw up the whole engine. It is a 12mm to begin with, so does that mean I would have to drillit out to a 14mm?
thanks,
Brad
B
Bkinz
Well-known member
Ya, I think I might just take it to a shop to do it. That way if they screw up I can blame it on them and maybe get a new case or something?
M
MPS
Well-known member
Ok got the damn lever off. It was spot welded before. It was just like you said Gimp...the shaft has splines in the front and a set in the rear of the shaft. The splines in the front are competely worn/stripped and the splines on the rear of the shaft are pretty worn and rounded. I'm thinking I need to replace the shaft. There is a little chunk on the front of the shaft that is gone too. You said it is easy to replace the shaft, but it scares me!
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M
MPS
Well-known member
I wish it was a 650....it is a 350. I have a service manual.....we'll see what I can do. I guess that is how I learned to be such a great sled mechanic.
Just dig in and learn! .
Hard to believe its that tight
You can try drilling a hole in the drain plug itself... Between the thickness of the head, and length of the bolt, you should be able to drill a hole large enough in diameter, and deep enough for an easy out without even getting close to breaking through and doing internal damage.
If you don't have any luck, you are no worse off, and then can take it to a shop.
Ah! Another AWESOME oil that most people have never heard of is Kendal. You can get it through specialty places and I think Summit carries it. VERY high temp crap, ran it in all of our modded VW motors(air cooled) never had a problem with break-down. It is also very high in detergents, so it cleans.
Those years of XR's ran the oil tank in the frame, right? Why not run a little bit bigger oil cooler like Gimp said, and run a little fan to help with the slow speeds? Might be worth it.....
Those years of XR's ran the oil tank in the frame, right? Why not run a little bit bigger oil cooler like Gimp said, and run a little fan to help with the slow speeds? Might be worth it.....
I have a service manual.....we'll see what I can do. I guess that is how I learned to be such a great sled mechanic.
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I guess there will be an XR 350 up for sale in a few months
FOR SALE= XR 350 in a box, Cheap
he-he-he
B
Bkinz
Well-known member
Hard to believe its that tight
You can try drilling a hole in the drain plug itself... Between the thickness of the head, and length of the bolt, you should be able to drill a hole large enough in diameter, and deep enough for an easy out without even getting close to breaking through and doing internal damage.
If you don't have any luck, you are no worse off, and then can take it to a shop.
Ya i guess so.
Well i think I might try just bout everything said, the next time i have to change it.Thanks,
Brad
M
MPS
Well-known member
ya I think that is what I am gonna do....I have to split the case to get the shaft in.....no thanks!
I guess there will be an XR 350 up for sale in a few months
FOR SALE= XR 350 in a box, Cheap
he-he-he
b*tch!!
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