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Running horrible need help????

good deal man, great dedication...once its fixed you will be loving life...

whats your next plan of action...

im pondering some ideas fo ryou to check at the moment...

but the 2 main things that keep coming to mind is the TPS and exhaust valve bellows...always been an issue and culprut for mid range bogs...
 
VES Valve Springs

Be sure the passages going from the VES Housings thru into the Clyinders Ports are Clean.


Next -- For a Test

Remove the Springs Completely, plug the ports on top of VES Housings with some caps.
 
After looking at the exhaust valve mod, (interesting) I realize my exhaust valves are the 05's and my motor is an 06. Could this be the problem or no big deal?
 
After looking at the exhaust valve mod, (interesting) I realize my exhaust valves are the 05's and my motor is an 06. Could this be the problem or no big deal?

probably no big deal, just noted for the diff. in drilling the holes. they will fit either motor
 
Can I just run one tube from each valve to plug them instead of running two tubes with plugs?

it is best to just put individual caps on each if you tie them together if there is a problem with one it will affect the other. simple vacuum caps will work or you can drill and tap them like i did and install a small set screw to plug them. i think it was 6-32 machine screw works perfect will double check.
 
Well the reeds checked out ok. I reset the tps and capped the exhaust valves, I didn't drill the holes in the valves yet I just want to see if this helps the sled. I also put BigDawg's intake on, that's going to be way better than the stupid gutted stock box I had on it. Thank for the pics and info on that BigDawg.
I'll report tomorrow on how its running
 
Sorry that was me posting on my buddy's computer. Since I plugged the ports on the exhaust valves but have not drilled the holes in the bodies will my valves still operate corectly?
 
Sorry that was me posting on my buddy's computer. Since I plugged the ports on the exhaust valves but have not drilled the holes in the bodies will my valves still operate corectly?

yes they will, the holes are to increase the pressure signal to the valves to help hold them open.
 
Well took it out for a spin.......a short one. Ran descent right off the batt but still was boggy through midrange. The more I rode it got worse. Put on about ten miles on the way back to the house it was doing what it did before I couldn't get it above 6500rmp unless I would go from no throttle to wide open and sometimes wouldn't even get there doing that.

After reading Rickb1b's post almost sound like we are having the same problem. I'm going to run it with the springs out to see if this helps.

It kind of makes sense that if I can pinch it and hold it wide open the valves will stay open which will let me hit max rpm. And when it hits that bog the valves are probably falling and shutting me down. I don't know I'm learning a lot with this piece of $%&@.

I'm headed back to the garage to do some more drinking and cussing!
 
The exhaust valves seem to be working I can see them pop up through the hole in the covers but seem to drop back down a little bit when it hits the bog about 6500. They don't fall all the way down just a little. I removed the springs and the same thing. If I go really slow through the range were it bogs it will make it through it and hit max rpm. But if you ask for it all it bogs out and wont get through it.

Sitting here thinking about when this problem came about was after i snapped the first crank and demolished the clutch. The dealer put the larger crank in it and put a new clutch on. The sled ran great up till then. So now im thinking a bad clutch???? What do you guys think about that?

Its worth a try, other than redoing all the wiring in the sled I don't know what to do.
 
I was wondering about the clutch and was going to ask if you had it gone through recently. It could be sticking. Also have you ever done anything to the secondary clutch? The springs can get weak over time and cause them to shift differently.
 
i would pull the clutches apart and check them completely, check the rollers on the spider for flat spots, clutch weight bushings, see if your weights are wearing in to the sheive, i have seen many of these 9's do that and the weights start hanging up. replace the springs for good measure in both the primary and secondary, i change mine yearly the sag out rather quickly.
 
I just put a brand new secondary on this year, new spring and helix. I have not gone through the primary completely but I will tackle that today. The primary spring only had about 3 rides on it from last year and I take the springs out over the summer. I'll inspect it and give a report. It would be nice to be able to ride this thing again someday!
 
I just put a brand new secondary on this year, new spring and helix. I have not gone through the primary completely but I will tackle that today. The primary spring only had about 3 rides on it from last year and I take the springs out over the summer. I'll inspect it and give a report. It would be nice to be able to ride this thing again someday!

i hear ya there i had many issues last year getting mine to run right but man once you get them running it is well worth it puts a smile on my face every time.

y your primary spring should be ok just check the rollers and weight bushings.
 
Clutch seems to be fine none of the rollers have any wear or flat spots in them. After watching closer I notice the pto side valve is staying open and the mag side valve is closing and when in falls back down thats when it bogs. I pulled the plugs and the pto side is burning nice but the mag side is running rich, does this raise any flags to you guys why that side is running rich and the valve isn't working. I'm not much of a mechanic but if that valve is falling and not burning all the fuel thats probably why that side is running rich??? I checked compression on both sides they are both between 100 and 110. Mag side if I had to guess from my tool 106 and pto side 103.

I'm going to drill the holes in the valve bodies this morning to see if that helps. Can I run the sled if I do not have the center O-ring you guys put in there?
 
I'm going to drill the holes in the valve bodies this morning to see if that helps. Can I run the sled if I do not have the center O-ring you guys put in there?


yes you can run it with out the seals, when you pull your valve off check the pressure feed hole in the cylinder and make sure it isn't plugged, they get carboned up and need cleaned out. it is the hole in the cylinder that matches up with the pressure feed hole in the valve. i use a paper clip or small drill bit to clean it, make sure the piston is down so you don't hit it.
 
I drilled the holes in the valve bodies everything went good. Decided to take the sled for a ride, ran pretty sharp for about 1/2 hour then started to crap out again. Get to about 6500 6600 and sputter and bog out. Stopped for a while fired the sled back up and would run good right away then start falling off. Stopped had some lunch fired it up again ran good then the same thing. So this thing is running pretty good after you fire it up then the more you ride it runs like crap???

Thinking about it the only thing I've been doing is taking it on test rides and every thing I do I think it helps because it runs good right away then the longer you ride it craps out.

Have you guys ran into this problem or does this raise a flag why it runs good right away then falls off??? Or why one cylinder is running rich and the other one fine?

This thing is really kicking my butt. I'm about ready to have an insurance accident...........I didn't say that!
 
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