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Rivet Gun / Rivets

rmk2112

Well-known member
Premium Member
What Rivet Gun / Rivets is everyone using?
I just installed some vents and had big issues with the SS rivets that came in the SLP kit. I have a Arrow rivet gun and am using 3/16" x 1/2" Aluminum rivets, but the riveter is snipping the rivet shaft about 1" from the rivet head.
I got a hand full of rivets from my dealer and they worked great...3 hand pumps and a clean break of the shaft inside the rivet head. Not sure what the issue is.
Any input would be appreciated.
 
I had a $250 air riveter, it lasted through one sled build and bit the crapper, picked up an el cheapo from Harbor Freight and have build 2 sleds since and it still works like a charm. I use aluminum, steel, stainless, aluminum/steel, and a few different styles of rivets and it pulls them all just fine. For the big stuff, 1/4", I use a "big daddy" hand riveter.
 
What Rivet Gun / Rivets is everyone using?
I just installed some vents and had big issues with the SS rivets that came in the SLP kit. I have a Arrow rivet gun and am using 3/16" x 1/2" Aluminum rivets, but the riveter is snipping the rivet shaft about 1" from the rivet head.
I got a hand full of rivets from my dealer and they worked great...3 hand pumps and a clean break of the shaft inside the rivet head. Not sure what the issue is.
Any input would be appreciated.

I use a hand riveter and a air powered one,but have that problem myself if I can't get the rivet gun on the rivet nice and tight to the tunnel or if I am a little crooked.If that is not the case,buy a new one.
I sure wish aluminum would work as those stainless steel ones are hard on hands and rivet gun.
While doing my Black Diamond xtreme rear bumper I bought two hand held then finally bought the air one,sure wish I bought the air rivetor right from the start.Good Luck!!


Cheers,
Dave
 
I use a hand riveter and a air powered one,but have that problem myself if I can't get the rivet gun on the rivet nice and tight to the tunnel or if I am a little crooked.


This is why I went to this type of powered rivet gun, it is alot smaller than the airtank type and allows you to get into most places better than a hand riveter.

32879.jpg
 
I bought el-cheapo from harbor freight, and it didn't work. The rivet pulls would get stuck in the teeth, and I had to take it apart to get them out.

I borrowed an old rivet puller to do my bdx tunnel extension and it worked great.

After reading several posts about the harbor freight riveter, I decided to give it another shot, and bought it again.
This one works great. It pulls the rivets nice and tight, breaks them clean and disposes of the pulls. I had a coupon, so it was under $30. If your doing any work on a tunnel, you need one of these.

If you buy the rivets that come in the small package (home depot) it gets a little spendy. On my next project, I'll go to fastenal and buy in bulk. I like the stainless steel, but use aluminum in low impact areas.
 
I have 2 sizes of the harbor freight riveters, will never pull one by hand again.
 
I had a $250 air riveter, it lasted through one sled build and bit the crapper, picked up an el cheapo from Harbor Freight and have build 2 sleds since and it still works like a charm. I use aluminum, steel, stainless, aluminum/steel, and a few different styles of rivets and it pulls them all just fine. For the big stuff, 1/4", I use a "big daddy" hand riveter.

What kind and where did you get the big daddy gun at? I need to install some 1/4" rivets and need to pick one up.
 
I bought a harbor freight air riveter once and it crapped out on me first time. That's what you get with Harbor Freight tools though. Some last, some don't. Since then I went with a $160 Craftsman air riveter. Works great and comes with a warranty.
 
Harbor Freight Unit ---

I have the big Harbor Freight Air rivet gun, over 5 years old. I use it to put deck on trailers. Use 3/16 x 1'' stainless rivets. I have used it to pull about 750 rivets and still going strong.
 
if the mandrel is breaking off above the rivet head then that is usually a sign the the rivet is to long.
I had an air riveter like the one himark pictured, $350 and it lasted 1 sled build ( Polaris gold rivets) and the pulling action is slow so it was hard to get pieces pulled together if there was a gap. the best luck I've had has been with the harbor freight riveter, I use mine every day, I go through about 10k rivets a season
 
Another one for the harbor freight rivet gun. I have one that I use to put back together damaged rentals. It is on it's third year. Big thumbs up for me.
 
3/16 steel rivets are hard as he.. to pull by hand, especially many repetitions. I have also had good luck with cheapo air riveter. Mine was Northern Tools. It was recomended by local dealer who used lots of rivets for tunnels and bulkhead replacements. Harbor freight also has cheap 1/4 hand riveter for more leverage with the 3/16" rivets, but I have had some problems with mine. It doesn't always feed the rivet so well and has to be pushed in and kept snug against the work. Your results could be different.
tom
 
Most of the hand ones I've seen say " Not recommended for 3/16" SS and steel rivets". WTH else is left besides aluminum?

if the mandrel is breaking off above the rivet head then that is usually a sign the the rivet is to long.

That's some good info, but the ones my Polaris dealer gave me were 3/16" x 1/2" and the mandrel came off fine, as soon as I used the SS ones SLP puts in their vent kits and the aluminum ones I bought at Lowe's (both 3/16" x 1/2") I started experiencing the problem.

I bought the rotating head hand riveter from harbor freight, The handle broke apart on the first SS rivet:eek:, Then I bought a Arrow from Lowe's and here we are.
So from what I'm hearing, a hand riveter should work fine for all 3 (Steel, Stainless Steel, Aluminum), as long as I have the correct length rivet?

1. Is there a common rule for rivets? IE; thickness of riveted surface / length of rivet
2. I'm installing the SLP shock tower vent kit. I am going through body plastic, the thin SS of the vent and the black protective grate on the back side. 3/16" x 1/2" Rivets? or should I be using 1/4"?
91l5b8.jpg

2 pieces from body, cut out for shock tower vent for example
Left is unused rivet, right side is what I'm describing; 4 hand pumps and the mandrel breaks at that length every time
2ik8u1x.jpg
 
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from the looks of it, the rivet is a little long but not bad. you might try a backup washer to take up some of the length. you might also just have a bad combination of rivet and rivet gun, or a bad batch of rivets. I have also seen rivets break like this is the gun only catches the top of the mandral
 

Thats the brand I just bought today, Got tired of the pieces of crap I got at Lowe's and Harbor Freight. I went to Tacoma Screw and got the Marson hand version. And got some decent rivets; 3/16" x (1/8"-3/8") & 3/16" x (1/4"-1/2").

Worked like a charm, guess thats what I get for trying to go cheap on a tool for my sled. *(gently rubs sled and says "I'm sorry") :cool:

Thanks to all who helped, but keep the info coming, someone might get some good info from this post in the future.

Right side complete, Left side vents and moving ski spacers outward in the morning:D

IMG00021.jpg IMG00024.jpg
 
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I asked a friend who races late model dirt track cars and he told me to look at long acre racing. I bought their rivet gun and it was about $70 bucks if I remember. I love it. Works all the time everytime. They also sell rivets of all sizes and colors.
 
The best air riveter I have used is from Grizzly. We have poped thousands of rivets at work with no problems and mostly ss rivets.
 
This is why I went to this type of powered rivet gun, it is alot smaller than the airtank type and allows you to get into most places better than a hand riveter.

32879.jpg


I use this riveter, i have 2 of them and love it. a little pricey but well worth it. you can get in small places with it and it will pull the big all steel rivets too.
 
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