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recall on the 2012 pro oil line rubbing

Watch out for inexpensive zip ties on oil lines people. The "teeth" of the tie can abrade through the line. AND the edges of the zip ties are sharp, square edged.

The Panduit brand has a smooth surface and rounded edges that do not rub thru lines or wires... Also, Thomas & Betts "TY-Rap" brand ties are smooth.

When tying up lines or wires on your $12,000 machine... don't cheap out on the simple stuff.

Do it yourself, rub thru because of an improper tie... burn your motor down and buy your own replacement. ...

My 2 cents.


Panduit tie.

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Watch out for inexpensive zip ties on oil lines people. The "teeth" of the tie can abrade through the line. AND the edges of the zip ties are sharp, square edged.

The Panduit brand has a smooth surface and rounded edges that do not rub thru lines or wires... Also, Thomas & Betts "TY-Rap" brand ties are smooth.

When tying up lines or wires on your $12,000 machine... don't cheap out on the simple stuff.

Do it yourself, rub thru because of an improper tie... burn your motor down and buy your own replacement. ...

My 2 cents.


Panduit tie.

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for real? i have been using zip ties on wiring in my truck for years. not once have a had the teeth or edge of the zip tie do any damage to the wires.
 
the best way to do this is to remove the airbox and remove the throttle body from the boot and pull up and out of the way. you dont have to disconnect any of the cables but you will have to disconnect the oil pump arm. once you do this you have full access to the oil line. what you want to do is zip tie the oil line that is rubbing, to the oil line that is running perpendicular to it. making sure that it is atleast 1" away from the bulk head. then reassemble. make sure you connect the oil pump arm back to throttle body. making sure the arm is pulled counter clock wise.
 
the best way to do this is to remove the airbox and remove the throttle body from the boot and pull up and out of the way. you dont have to disconnect any of the cables but you will have to disconnect the oil pump arm. once you do this you have full access to the oil line. what you want to do is zip tie the oil line that is rubbing, to the oil line that is running perpendicular to it. making sure that it is atleast 1" away from the bulk head. then reassemble. make sure you connect the oil pump arm back to throttle body. making sure the arm is pulled counter clock wise.

This is what I did after taking it to the dealer, and they told me that 1/4 clearance was ok. I have large hands, and did it without disconnecting the oil pump arm. I have a inch of clearance, it took me 80 min.
 
for real? i have been using zip ties on wiring in my truck for years. not once have a had the teeth or edge of the zip tie do any damage to the wires.

You have to take into account the quality of the wires.
 
Where am I supposed to be looking exactly? I tried looking between the primary and secondary and nothing jumped out at me that I could see.
 
Just in case someone doesn't think of this, you should take your sled in and get this done so you don't have an open recall on your sled in case something happens..... Don't want them voiding your warranty or something stupid.
 
Just checked mine again. Upon delivery, it was around 1/2" clearance and in no way rubbing.
After first 100 miles, it is touching and has been rubbing!

Dont overlook this one guys!!

Im going to redo the "panduit" strap (ziptie) and also epoxy a spliced 1/4" fuel line or similar onto the bulkhead that it rubs on.
 
I took a flashlight and looked down between the throttle body and found the little oil line filter had been rubbing on the side of the mag. cyl. and I had about 1/4" clearance between the bulk head and the oil line. I cut 3/4' off the oil line that is attached to the oil resevoir and found that all clearances were good.
 
I got a chance to look at mine today while getting it ready to take it out West. I had my clutches off to clean them so it made it real easy to get a look at it. I took a couple pictures with my phone while I had the clutches off. My oil supply line was fine. It had 3/8" clearance between the bulkhead. The oil line going to the PTO bearing right behind the primary clutch was rubbing ever so slightly on the casting where the reeds would go into.

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oil line rub

So, is the wire protector over the oil line OEM or is that something you installed for protection? Also, is this for PRO's only or Standard RMK's too? I haven't gotten any notice in the mail for my standard 800 RMK. My sled is about an hour away, and we're leaving for the mountains on Wednesday. I'll have to make a trip to check it out before we go. All input is appreciated.
 
for real? i have been using zip ties on wiring in my truck for years. not once have a had the teeth or edge of the zip tie do any damage to the wires.

For real.... :face-icon-small-win

You've been lucky or the brand you have been using does not have sharp edges... the teeth and edges DO cut into soft hoses and wiring insulation... I've watched it happen.

I've installed literally hundreds of complex wiring harness' in everything from computer systems to mega-yachts to automotive/truck to snowmobiles.

I wont use "zip ties" on anything that matters.

Especially on high vibration equipment.

There is a reason they specified the Panduit brand.

Not trying to be a smartazz here... just trying to save others frustration. Quality ties are worth investing in, IMO.







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Just in case someone doesn't think of this, you should take your sled in and get this done so you don't have an open recall on your sled in case something happens..... Don't want them voiding your warranty or something stupid.

I agree with Milo... Unless you have an emergency or it is not possible to take it in...

This is a factory warranty update that is done for free.

If you did it yourself, and the repair caused an oil related problem.. The warranty should not and would not cover it.





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For real.... :face-icon-small-win

You've been lucky or the brand you have been using does not have sharp edges... the teeth and edges DO cut into soft hoses and wiring insulation... I've watched it happen.

I've installed literally hundreds of complex wiring harness' in everything from computer systems to mega-yachts to automotive/truck to snowmobiles.

I wont use "zip ties" on anything that matters.

Especially on high vibration equipment.

There is a reason they specified the Panduit brand.

Not trying to be a smartazz here... just trying to save others frustration. Quality ties are worth investing in, IMO.







.

wasn't taking you comment as being a smart ***, i was just surprised that reg zip ties could do that.
 
No worries...I didn't take it that way.

The hardware-store or average auto-parts store variety of zip ties have sharp edges and a "sawtooth" design to the.

The Panduit and the Thomas and Betts "Ty-Rap" ties are truly that much better and the only ones I use on my sleds or other equipment.. they really ARE that much better... they don't release from temperature, they are infinitely adjustable, more heat resistant, stronger, chafe resistant, etc etc..


There have been other issues with wiring and zip ties on many different brands and types of equipment that vibrate.

Like this excellent post from Diamonddave

Diamonddave:
Another thing to watch out for...The factory wire ties that hold the hand grip heater wiring to the bars is wearing through the black protective coating causing the wires to short out to the bars. The wire ties are way too tight.

Another area of concern I noticed while dealing with this problem is the insane amount of corrossion in the electrical connectors for the hot grips from the main wiring harness.

The pics were hard to get good but it will give you an idea of what is happening.

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And then they wonder why there's blown ECM's...Fuses are necesaary, Hello???








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Mine went to the dealer and checked out OK. I did get my TPS reset and connector cleaned. Also throttle cable free play adjustment.
 
which sleds affected by recall?

So, if you do not receive a recall postcard, then your sled was not affected? I haven't received any notice yet, so I'm guessing it was limited to a small window of production dates/models. Thanks to all the above photos showing the problem. I checked mine earlier today, and it has 1/2" clearance, but I'll keep my eye on it in the future.
 
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