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Push to Pass Button

M

MAINJET

Active member
Just wondering what peoples opinions are of the push to pass feature of the Boondocker EBC. I have this and have yet to use it. If you are running at or near max boost how much should you set it at??? How much boost does it add and is it an immediate increase or is there a delay?
 
been on a Dragon that had push to pass. I never can remember to hit the button. It was easier to just set the boost at whatever you wanted to run and forget about the button.
 
As one of the non BD fans... I'd love to have one of those. I run under my max boost by a ways & would love to be able to add a bit more on a climb if needed. I think that's one of the best features they've come up with.
 
I can't for the life of me figure out why you need the "blow my motor up" button. I kind of wish I didn't have it.
 
Ptp

I dont understand why you would run your boost lower than the octane you have can provide just so you can push this ptp button and run full potential when you want it. Am i missing something here?
 
I dont understand why you would run your boost lower than the octane you have can provide just so you can push this ptp button and run full potential when you want it. Am i missing something here?

Honestly, on the stage II we have... 15 is just more than we need. We run 9-12 most of the time & it works great, but doesn't get plain stupid when you hit full throttle, 15 on the other hand is just hard to hold on to. It just seems excessive. We turn it up for straight hillclimbs, but for jumping, trees, etc... around 11 is enough. I know I can run a full climb at 15, and we do it a couple times a day, but I'd love to be able to do that easily.
 
Honestly, on the stage II we have... 15 is just more than we need. We run 9-12 most of the time & it works great, but doesn't get plain stupid when you hit full throttle, 15 on the other hand is just hard to hold on to. It just seems excessive. We turn it up for straight hillclimbs, but for jumping, trees, etc... around 11 is enough. I know I can run a full climb at 15, and we do it a couple times a day, but I'd love to be able to do that easily.

Crank your boost tee up or push a couple of buttons on the EBC...?

Seriously, I cannot for the life of me figure out why this button exists. You can't decrease boost with it, only add boost. It's rather pointless.

And whats more is, I don't know if the kit will work with it disconnected.

I'd really rather disconnect mine than keep it connected, I might do so.
 
you can also set it up to capture a specific stat as well, when you push it it will record that stat, i think it is a great addition to the kit. whether you use it or not, like backcountry said, when boondocking i prefer the boost be a little lower and more contollable, and when on a hill climb set it for what you want for that big pull.
i have mine set to add 2lbs at the push of the button, i have my ebc set at 6-8 i ride a little lower elevation than most (3k-6k)
it works well for me!
 
I get what you guys are saying, but if I'm running 11psi... more than enough for 99% of riding, and doesn't stand up & get out of control so much for Abby, but when it's needed if she could get 15 for the top of a climb that's in doubt (like how you'd use nitrous) I think she'd use it.

Maybe it's a throttle control problem, but when I ride the thing, at the higher boost levels it does feel more like a 4 stroke hit, hard hit that comes on more sudden, compared to it being smooth & controllable. Is that just in how I'm clutched maybe? I'm guessing there's something I'm doing wrong with this setup if all of you guys are saying something totally different.

I'm curious, once I get my sled set up with bigger boost, how it will work in comparison, and if I'll still have the same opinion.
 
I get what you guys are saying, but if I'm running 11psi... more than enough for 99% of riding, and doesn't stand up & get out of control so much for Abby, but when it's needed if she could get 15 for the top of a climb that's in doubt (like how you'd use nitrous) I think she'd use it.

Maybe it's a throttle control problem, but when I ride the thing, at the higher boost levels it does feel more like a 4 stroke hit, hard hit that comes on more sudden, compared to it being smooth & controllable. Is that just in how I'm clutched maybe? I'm guessing there's something I'm doing wrong with this setup if all of you guys are saying something totally different.

I'm curious, once I get my sled set up with bigger boost, how it will work in comparison, and if I'll still have the same opinion.

Well, really I guess when I think about it you have a point, I'm only running the pump gas kit ... It would be kinda cool to have that on a climb.

I think until I upgrade to the RG kit I would prefer to have it set to record a stat ... that would benefit me more.

Although, I'm not gonna upgrade to the RG kit until I get the PG kit dialed in so I don't have to keep re-doing imy fuel map every time I ride it. I'm kinda confused.

I guess though it makes more sense to have the button on the RG kit than the PG kit where you're running 9-11 psi constantly.
 
I like the idea of riding around on about 9 lbs boost. Ripping through the trees, you dont need the big boost all the time, it would just get you into more trouble. But having the option to hit the button when you need it is great. And doesn't running lower boost give you better economy as well as engine life? Anyways I think it is a great option and it is cool to use.
 
I talked to Jared at Boondocker yesterday and told him that I have been running mine at or near 10 lbs on 50/50 110 race gas and 92 premium. On long pulls I'm maxing out my injectors and getting close to 1300 degrees on the EGT's. So I'm going to follow his recommendation and set my boost closer to 8 lbs and then toy with the push to pass button till I get it to add in another 2 pounds. My thoughts are that this will come in handy when I'm close to making a hill in deep powder and might need a little extra help getting up that last 50 feet or so. Backcountry, dont know why you don't like BD's turbo's. This one runs great. No hesitation or run on, If I roll it over I doesn't leak any oil and it's a frickin hand full to hang on to. The EBC is a little confusing at first but after a little toying around with it it's pretty easy to run. This is the first turbo I've owned so I'm no expert but got nothing but good to say about mine.:clap2:
 
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ok, I get it... If I was running a PG setup, I'd see ZERO point in running one. There's no way I'd run this sled at 8psi & use the PTP to get 10, I'd just set it at 10. If you can only run it at 8 safely... the top of a hill is the LAST place you want to push it & squeeze a little more out of it... just to see if it'll POP!!

With a RG setup though, it makes a lot more sense. Maybe I'm just a pu$$ for not running 15psi constantly, but good god my arms would be beat so much faster at that PSI!

Suspension has a lot to do with it as well, as you increase 50 or whatever hp, you need to change settings, but I like the sled set so it pulls the skis about 18" at 10-11psi so the front feels light, that same setting puts it on it's tail at 15, to put it so it stays down at 15 would make it much heavier at lower power.

oh btw, I've got nothing against bd's TURBO... it's the box that's attached to it, and the customer service regarding that box... that I don't like. Like said in another post though.. IT'S ALL in the installer, THEY make or break a kit. IF your installer can set you up so you don't need to touch the box... you'll love any of the kits!
 
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ok, I get it... If I was running a PG setup, I'd see ZERO point in running one. There's no way I'd run this sled at 8psi & use the PTP to get 10, I'd just set it at 10. If you can only run it at 8 safely... the top of a hill is the LAST place you want to push it & squeeze a little more out of it... just to see if it'll POP!!

With a RG setup though, it makes a lot more sense. Maybe I'm just a pu$$ for not running 15psi constantly, but good god my arms would be beat so much faster at that PSI!

Suspension has a lot to do with it as well, as you increase 50 or whatever hp, you need to change settings, but I like the sled set so it pulls the skis about 18" at 10-11psi so the front feels light, that same setting puts it on it's tail at 15, to put it so it stays down at 15 would make it much heavier at lower power.

oh btw, I've got nothing against bd's TURBO... it's the box that's attached to it, and the customer service regarding that box... that I don't like. Like said in another post though.. IT'S ALL in the installer, THEY make or break a kit. IF your installer can set you up so you don't need to touch the box... you'll love any of the kits!

Bear with me a little longer... I failed to mention that I'm riding a 1000. At 10 lbs it feels incredible. (cant imagine what 15 would feel like) I've rode it several times now with no issues but got a little concerned because of the high EGT's and maxing out the injectors. However I've pulled the exhaust valves several times and dont see any damage to the pistons. My thoughts were to set the boost lower to get it off the edge and then use the PTP when needed. As much as I've been running it at 10 lbs and not hurt it I would think that using it intermittantly would be reasonably safe.
 
The only reason to have the push to pass button, that I can see, is to run the numbers up or down on the ebc. I accidently screwed my numbers up and my sled was running pretty ratty. You have to have it to run the numbers back down. Maybe the new ones are different but mine stays under the hood.
 
And whats more is, I don't know if the kit will work with it disconnected.

I'd really rather disconnect mine than keep it connected, I might do so.

The kit works fine without it. Mine has been in the top of my tool box for 2 seasons now and I've never connected it.
 
You don't need EBC to have a push to pass button, I use the AEM Tru-Boost system on both of my sleds and have 3 boost settings and the button to add or subtract boost without opening hood. Only issue with this system is getting the guage waterproofed but once I figured that out no issues. System is around 300$ plus whatever button you want to use. The 3 settings are: OFF which is base boost of your actuator, A setting gives me about 8 lbs the way I have my setup and my B setting is 11 lbs and my button adds 2-3 lbs to either A or B. Works great on some climbs for that little bit extra. I can even set it to work for as long as I hold the button or for bursts that last for up to 24 seconds after I push button. As soon as you let off and boost drops it stops the burst. The settings are duty cycles of the solenoid and are different for every setup to make desired boost, This setup isn't hard to use but I ride with lots of guys who are too simple for this setup.
 
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hey spoon, you got a link for that thing? SOunds like something I'd like on my stage II, I've been thinking about running 11 psi, but bumping to 13 if I need it.

Honestly, what I'd like is just a quick simple switch to run 2-4 more psi (not really a button given the choice). If I'm just dorkin around jumping... don't need more than 9-10, but if I want to climb something big, 13 is pretty sick. It's just a pain to reach under the hood & turn it. First 2 months we had the hcr we probably turned it up or down about 3 times a day, it's fun to feel the different levels.
 
Go to AEM's site and look for it, all the tuning and setup vids are on YouTube. The tuning vids are essential to watch to learn to operate, the vids are on a car but works the same on any turbo. Wiring is a power and ground and extra wire for switch which is just another ground to work, I used a rubber Nitrous button from an old Holtzman kit on both of mine but next one I plan to use a bike kill switch as they are a momentary switch as well. Switching from preset boost levels is by pushing and holding a button.
 
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