Project 2001 RMK 700 Rebuild.

[alaska_guy]

ok, think i found the issue... The pilot screws keep coming loose and will either tighten or loosen due to the vibration of the engine running...

Seems the mag side always wants to tighten up and the pto side always wants to come loose. Can I use teflon tape or something to make them stay put?

Looks like I was messing with the Pilot Air Jet... I am running 0.9's

SLP recommends the following.

Pilot Jet: 45
Air Jet: .9
Needle: 8DGY1-57

looks like I am running everything right besides the needle. I have it in a drawer, just wasn't sure how to install it.



***Edit***

Used teflon tape and it seems to stay put around 1100-1200rpm now. Can't seem to really get it much higher, could be a jetting issue? It's 30 degrees out today and I have 500 jets in currently, gonna swap to some 480's.

 

[RoostinRyan]

I've never touched those screws.... Lol I was talking about the screw on the show off each carburetor (mag side) with the t looking handle with the spring

 

[alaska_guy]

Ok, figured it out. Had to turn in the fuel screw on each carb one turn. It's the screw located on the right side of each carb if your sitting down on the sled. It's the one with the spring and a single bar going through it. Was able to dial it in at 1500 RPM.

I am going to fully seat those air jets now that I know they are supposed to be fully seated as they were before I started messing with them.

On another note I installed the PTO side trailing arm and ski. Going to finish up the MAG side trailing arm tomorrow.

All in all a good day.

 

[RoostinRyan]

Not bad almost done sounds like

 

[alaska_guy]

I wanted to thank everyone for the assistance along the way with this build. I would have had a heck of a time without the help from the guys on this site.

The build is finally at an end. I do have to say the sled seems super low now with stock shocks up front. The extra 3" the fox shocks provided up front really made the sled look better to me. Plus I have had the sled on jacks for a month, so hard to get used to the lowered front end.

 

[RoostinRyan]

Very nice!!!

 

[volcano buster]

Think that ski will buff out?

 

[alaska_guy]

If I decide to keep the sled I will more than likely get new skis...

 

[RoostinRyan]

Lol my skis look worse

 

[alaska_guy]

So I took the s led arou nd the b lock and it .has a few quirks. Clutch doesn't engage until 4000 RPM. I am running 64 gram weights on the primary.... the coolant system either has more air in it or the thermostat isn't working properly as the engine seemed pretty hot and the runners were still cold.

also the rule of thumb where you guys say to tighten the air screw all the way in and then back out 1.5 turns, are you referring to the fuel screw located on the MAG side of the carbs? The one with the spring and the bar? I think I'm gonna try and adjust mine more as it still seems to be running rich.

Otherwise the sled rips! Not enough snow to ride without overheating

 

[mike_s]

4k engagement is normal. Coolers won't get hot until engine gets to 120 degrees Fahrenheit, the dummy light will come on if it's too hot. Yes, the pilot screw is the one with the spring behind it.

Sent From God Knows Where...

 

[alaska_guy]

Thanks. Well set my fuel screws 2.5 turns out and it seems like its running much smoother... starts on the first pull, idles good... Just more backfiring/popping than I think is normal.

The other odd thing, after running for about a minute I shut down the sled and pulled the plugs, both plugs look the same, but the PTO side cylinder has faint white smoke coming out. The MAG side seems fine. Both cylinders feel about the same as far as temp goes when using my hand...

Just concerned because smoke usually isn't a good sign... There is a ton of oil mixture in the gas... Plugs are nice and oily... Think its just oil and I am being concerned for nothing? There also is a squeeling sound coming from the engine, sounds like brake rubbing, or something else metal... Hard to tell.. Belt wasn't hot, so pretty sure its not the belt.

Really hoping its not a bearing, but at this point.... Not sure what else it could be. Going to swap belts and see if that fixes the squealing.

**EDIT**

Just got off the phone with SLP, they basically said my carbs sound like they are tuned right. The guy I talked to sounded knowledgeable and we were both on the same page, I think I am just going to try and track down the squealing and go from there.

 

[RoostinRyan]

Yeah sounds like everything is good. Until you actually work the motor under load you won't be able to tell if everything is tuned right (I'm going thru this now). The squealing may be your clutches out of alignment. That's where I'd start.

 

[alaska_guy]

I checked primary sheave clearance earlier and it was exactly at .020 as suggested.... Checked again and still seems fine. However, I remember changing the secondary external gold plate to the #2 setting. It was at #5 before. I am using a stock Polaris used belt and assumed I needed to bring the secondary in some.... I am going to set that ring back to #5, since that's where your supposed to start with a new belt and go from there. I don't remember it squealing before when it was at #5. I am going to try to keep as many variables the same as possible as to when I first started it up and the squealing wasn't happening.

Thanks for the advice, hopefully its just that I set the secondary a little too tight.

 

[alaska_guy]

Ok, one last thing...

I was looking at the koso temp gauge and hose barb adapter for around $100, but I was curious if I can just use a standard auto temp gauge and temp sensor in place of the idiot light temp sensor?

Something like this...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-2...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a49f694b1&vxp=mtr

I am wanting a temp gauge that shows me real temps, not just an idiot light. I imagine the voltage is AC, not DC coming off the stator, so i would need an AC/DC rectifier? I will check the headlight voltage, I imagine that has to be DC, otherwise it would blow bulbs all the time.

Figure I will just give it a shot and post back.

 

[alaska_guy]

Ok, made some progress on the sled tuning. I had to move the needle clip to the 4th position... It would idle but it popped a lot like it was still running lean. I talked to SLP and all my jets were right and that was the only thing I could think of.

I know the Needle is only supposed to affect mainly at 1/4 throttle... But I am telling you it made a night/day difference. Sled finally sounds much more tame and now I don't feel too scared taking it for a ride.

I am about sea level currently. Trying to get a decent baseline so I can get an altitude comp unit so I don't have to dink with jets all the time.

 

[RoostinRyan]

I installed a mechanical temperature Guage and probe from O'Reilly's.

 

[alaska_guy]

Ive never ran twin pipes before and it seems like they are still popping more than they should...

On startup the MAG side exhaust seemed to get warmer a lot quicker than the PTO side by just using my hand to feel. Is this normal?

it's been a good 10 years since I have owned a sled and just want to make sure things are right after the rebuild.

Coolant has been bled properly and the runners get warm etc.

If I engage the choke it brings down the idle and gets rid of the popping, but its also bogging down the engine to around 500-600 rpm and will eventually kill it if I don't turn off the choke.

It seems like I still need a little more fuel at idle from what I can tell...

After around 2k RPM's the popping disappears and she runs like a raped ape. I just want to figure out that lean idle circuit issue so it doesn't cause problems... I live in town so I can't rip the sled too much down my streets, but EGT's were around 900 or so while riding it around the block and after I let it idle it would come right back down to the bottom that the gauge reads (600).

You can notice after giving it some throttle on the way back down it will pop/ make a snapping sound.

http://youtu.be/x8aEvP72wU8

SLP recommends 45 Pilot jets, but I am thinking to step up to a 50? Sound about right?


****EDIT****

Oh, almost forgot... Changing the secondary setting from 1-5 to fixed the belt squeal issue.

 

[alaska_guy]

Figured I would post an update. Not enough snow to ride this season. So she has been sitting in the garage all season. Maybe better luck next season.

Seems to be running fine (when I can get it started). Lot of compression in that engine. Haha.

 

[RoostinRyan]

Figured I would post an update. Not enough snow to ride this season. So she has been sitting in the garage all season. Maybe better luck next season.

Seems to be running fine (when I can get it started). Lot of compression in that engine. Haha.

Glad to hear you got it going but bummer that you can't ride it. I figured there would be tons of snow up there! I ended up parting my sled out and bit the bullet and bought a 2012 pro chassis. I don't have much left other than suspension parts, tank, stock pipe, reservoirs, etc. If you need anything like that let me know.

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