Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

  • Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

Project 2001 RMK 700 Rebuild.

Nope, same bolt.... It was APITA to get the clutch off... So imagine its having the the same issue with getting it on.

I sanded inside the clutch where it mates to the crank snout with 320grit, so should have helped.... Just not working for some reason...

It's getting late and I really dont want to fustrate myself with that clutch. I will give it another try in a couple days or so.

***Edit***

Took the clutch off....

Here is how far the bolt gets.

20141222_151157_resized.jpg


20141222_151212_resized.jpg


So something in the clutch is binding is my guess...

Came across this post...

http://www.snowest.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-230564.html

TIP-The Polaris bolt has a straight shoulder at the end of the thread that will hang up on the washer or weight bushing during insertion. Gently grind a taper on this edge using a bench grinder.
Click to expand...

Yup, that did it.. I barely sanded down that shoulder and after using a rubber mallet to presuade it, the bolt finally went in! Got the engine in the sled, put all the hoses and connectors together, just need to put oil, coolant and some gas in her and she should hopefully be alive again!
 
Last edited:
You shouldn`t have to pound it in there. I think the bolt is slightly bent and the shoulder you ground is catching on the clutch puller threads in the clutch. The tip you found is actually for the weight pivot pin not the clutch bolt.
 
Yeah, I agree... Never had that big of an issue with a clutch before. The sanding seemed to help. I was going to fill it up with liquids today, but I think I am going to replace all the black oil hoses with clear ones so I can see that the oil pump is working properly.
 
Just waiting on my heim joints now... engine work is done!

Waiting to fire it up until the sled is complete then I can break her in properly. :)

20141224_121150.jpg
 
Last edited:
All this time rod talk lately has me wondering if I even have the right one on my sled because they both stick out really far on either side like they are long.
 
Unless you can find one off a used sled or someone has over stock somewhere I doubt you have the factory tie rod. Polaris discontinued them and it's been a fight to track some new ones down. Most people just use heim joints and a bolt as a replacement. Which is more than likely fine. I'm just a little OCD.
 
Well, decided I would try and start the sled today.... After a couple issues I got it started. Forgot I turned the fuel shut off, off when I removed the engine... Started right up and ran for a good 2 minutes and then just died out of the blue.

I premixed the oil to gas on the first tank 50:1. 2 gallons to 5.2oz oil.

Pulled the plugs and they were fouled really bad.

Engine was pretty hot, I bled the coolant system for a bit but not 100% sure it was cycling the coolant right. If I unplug the coolant temp sensor (brown/black) what does that do? Wanting to make sure the coolant cycles properly since I had to drain the coolant system and want to get all the air bubbles out. Don't really want to pull the thermostat if I don't have to.

On another note, them twin pipes are LOUD!!
 
There should be a screw you can take out of the manifold in top of the head cover to bleed out any air. The system is pretty easy to put coolant into. This lady time I did it i stepped the screw out and didn't even bleed it and it was fine. If you unplug the sensor nothing happens. Mine isn't even hooked up anymore since I installed a mechanically water temperature Guage.
 
I might also mention that I'm no longer even running a thermostat since I'm running aftermarket heads. What did you set the pilot screws to? Start with them at 1.5 turns and see how it runs... After you put in new plugs of course
 
Did you have the front of the sled raised up, engine being the highest point above the lowest part of the cooling system, or the hose loose to allow for air to escape? with the bleed screw loose as you filled it up with coolant? As you pour antifreeze into a new system the air in there has to go somewhere. Once you get liquid rather than air from your bleed point, after just a couple minutes at idle you should begin to feel the tunnel cooler getting warm as well as the lines going to and coming back from it and that will tell you there is circulation. I keep the front of the sled elevated while it is getting up to temp and keep cracking the bleeder to check for air.
 
Well the front end is jacked up because I am waiting on a tie rod end. I have pulled on the cord a good 50 times. I can't seem to get it to stay started. I pulled the plugs and they are getting spark. But rather weak. So gonna get some new plugs tomorrow. Another stupid question, the fuel shutoff, should it be in the on position or off position? It's late and I can't seems to get it started in either position. It started a few times in the off position....

Yeah I was bleeding the air from the coolant elbow where the thermostat is. Only was able to get it started each time using half choke.

Haven't messed with the air screw. It fired up prior to the motor rebuild. I am assuming you are referring to the pilot screw that is on the intake side of the carb? Where the carb boot from the airbox meets the carb? Well, I must have tightened those down for some reason or another when I was cleaning the carbs. They were completely tight. I backed them out 2 turns. The book says 2.5... I know a lot of guys say to do 1.5. Figured I would split the difference. Surprised I even got the thing started with it like that.

http://www.mikuni.com/pdf/hs40_manual.pdf

Number 43 in that diagram?

Sorry, im not a carb guy... I work on EFI engines.
 
Last edited:
Ok, new spark plugs in and turned the pilot out 2 turns and she started right up... She wants to stay at 2500rpm though. Wont go any lower. I tried closing the flapper on the carb using the thumb screw (idle screw?) to get that as low as possible but still run good and I think that's set... I now assume the pilot controls how much air is entering the carb, so I will try and turn the screw in 1 full turn on each carb and see if she idles lower...

Never really messed with carbs on my other sleds other than changing main jets and cleaning.

Thanks for the help fellas!
 
Check to make sure your throttle cable isnt too tight, causing the high idle. They will also change when they warm up, as far as idle speed.
 
Don't ask me why because I dunno lol but mine will idle like that especially when I first start it up and after its warm it will go down.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

D
2005 Polaris RMK 900
Replies
2
Views
422
mustang1965
M
GoBigParts
600HO Carbed Motor Rebuild?
Replies
12
Views
1K
GoBigParts
GoBigParts
D
Turbo Axys top end shot, bad scoring, debris damage? 1k miles
Replies
8
Views
4K
dnk
D
whoisthatguy
New Season Prep Ideas
Replies
0
Views
1K
whoisthatguy
whoisthatguy
T
Need input on crossfire 1000 running on 1 cylinder
Replies
13
Views
3K
arcticridr
A
Premium Features
Join Now Free!



Back
Top