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Pro rmk 2016 throttle rpm problems help!

Kens allmec bromsade en axys 2016 som gav full effekt vid 7800 varv med orginal pipan och 8350 med slp pipa

jo men det är inte normalt,en axys har inte peaken på 7800 om den så är orginal, nu har jag ju rör som skall varva 8400-8500 och det är fullkomligt omöjligt att uppnå med min skrot skoter, snart märkes byte om inte polaris sverige kommer med en lösning.
 
Im forgetted to check wot before but now i got 4,37v at WOT. The sled is pulling more in 90% throttle. Talked to my other dealer and they thinking about switch out the ecu on the sled.

TPS voltage is too high at 4.37 wot thats why it revs better at 90 throttle. High voltage is too rich, lean it out and it will rpm.
Assuming you have 100% seal on pipe joints
 
TPS voltage is too high at 4.37 wot thats why it revs better at 90 throttle. High voltage is too rich, lean it out and it will rpm.
Assuming you have 100% seal on pipe joints

What should wot voltage be?? Doesnt find any rule about wot voltages and how do i adjust wot voltages? At base or idle??
 
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SRXRULE has it right IMO. Somethings not adding up right in your tps settings as I read it. Set your base to the low end, your idle to mid or high end and see what your top end is. If you can get it to 4.3 or under I think that will fix your problem. As mentioned above you may need a tps with less range.

Also check to see if the tps repeats when you do a bunch of throttle movements. It should return to idle spec each time, if not you need a new throttle body.
Pipe seal is very important!
Do you have access to a Bullydog? Takes a minute or two to install and will read and record your sensors as you ride. See if your pipe is up to temp

Good luck, hope you get it fixed. Hate to see you dump it for another brand like you mentioned
 
SRXRULE has it right IMO. Somethings not adding up right in your tps settings as I read it. Set your base to the low end, your idle to mid or high end and see what your top end is. If you can get it to 4.3 or under I think that will fix your problem. As mentioned above you may need a tps with less range.

Also check to see if the tps repeats when you do a bunch of throttle movements. It should return to idle spec each time, if not you need a new throttle body.
Pipe seal is very important!
Do you have access to a Bullydog? Takes a minute or two to install and will read and record your sensors as you ride. See if your pipe is up to temp



Good luck, hope you get it fixed. Hate to see you dump it for another brand like you mentioned


Tps repeats after some throttle blips also after a test ride i hooked up the tps and it at 0,940idle so it would be good. Have no access to a bullydog. Your idea is to set base at 0,690 if im think right?. I have seen one guy that drive a axys in a bench and he is at 4,32wot but took him 3 runs to get full rpms, he even blame pipe fittings.
 
I had the same issue, won't make power above 90% throttle! I shortened my pipe and changed the choke tube size to run 8300 to 8400 rpm, it runs flawless now. My sled rocks now. Friends who have identical sleds have rode mine and told me that these are not the same sleds because mine runs so much much better and makes so much more power! Not saying that this is the cure all, but it solved my issue. Shorting the pipe made more power at a little higher rpm and the choke size held the pipe heat.

Read about someone over on HCS last season having rpm issues and changing the pipe solved the problem. Not sure what the exact issue was but with a new pipe he was back in business.
Pipe seal plays a big role in this too.
 
alright have now hooked up tps a second time everything was like i leave it.

have now tried set base at .690 and idle from .930 up to .950,

however i set the base and idle within tolerances my wot volt is reading 4,37 volt wiiierd,

then i tried to set base at .600 and idle at .940 then my wot vent down to 4,28v

im thinking a replace of tps sensor is the way to go, it has to wide range... cant imagine something else

also hooked up a new 2017 sks at my dealer and his wot reading is 4,26 and thats saying a big thing im 0,11volt over his value.
 
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I have the exact same symptoms, tone changes dramatically when throttle is held wide open. Has anybody had this issue solved with complete TPS settings done? My dealer wants to flash it and I don't have any faith in that. I'm also having issues with my reverse button not working. Why is it so hard for dealers to just train their techs to do TPS settings right, not just a digital wrench quickie!?!
 
I have the exact same symptoms, tone changes dramatically when throttle is held wide open. Has anybody had this issue solved with complete TPS settings done? My dealer wants to flash it and I don't have any faith in that. I'm also having issues with my reverse button not working. Why is it so hard for dealers to just train their techs to do TPS settings right, not just a digital wrench quickie!?!

Yes that sounds exactly like mine. Presently when I press the reverse button the motor skips about one ignition and continues running forward. It goes into reverse very rarely.
 
My Axys was serviced by local dealer at end of last season. I paid them to do the TPS. It seemed to start better, but as I mentioned above, it had problem with WOT RPM and going into reverse.

I just did the TPS adjustment myself.

Starting numbers:
.729
.966
4.40

Final numbers:
.699
.939
4.29

Hopefully this helps.
 
My Axys was serviced by local dealer at end of last season. I paid them to do the TPS. It seemed to start better, but as I mentioned above, it had problem with WOT RPM and going into reverse.

I just did the TPS adjustment myself.

Starting numbers:
.729
.966
4.40

Final numbers:
.699
.939
4.29

Hopefully this helps.

Dealers... :face-icon-small-con
You got yourself some nice numbers now atleast.

Have you tried it out yet, any improvements?
 
My Axys was serviced by local dealer at end of last season. I paid them to do the TPS. It seemed to start better, but as I mentioned above, it had problem with WOT RPM and going into reverse.

I just did the TPS adjustment myself.

Starting numbers:
.729
.966
4.40

Final numbers:
.699
.939
4.29

Hopefully this helps.
Adam
Did this solve the wot throttle issues and reverse issues or have you not had a chance to ride it yet? Please report your findings
 
This is the problem with trying to fix a performance issue while living in the flat lands. I come home all horned up to make changes, make the changes, and then have to wait many weeks until I can get out to try it again. Compounded by the problem that I end up making multiple changes before testing any of them so it's hard to know what did what.

Hopefully I get out early February, but nothing scheduled yet.
 
My symptoms: 3-4 pulls to start when cold, boggy mid range occasionally when carving with occasional backfire, occasional backfire on warm restart, multiple pulls on warm re-start, a bit weak on top end compared to other sleds in the group.

Intitial Conditions
5.03 VDC (two different multimeters confirmed)
0.717 base
0.949 idle @ 1850 rpm
4.434 WOT

Adjusted to
5.03 VDC
0.701 base (very difficult to get it perfect)
0.940 idle @ 1900 rpm
4.412 WOT

Is my sled also going to still be too rich at WOT due to the range of the full TPS sweep being too much voltage? Should I drop the idle set screw down to below spec to get it to idle more like 1700 rpm or is that going to screw the rest up? Should I drop base down to something like 0.692 to get WOT into the range everybody is talking?

On a related issue I had a leaking exhaust system due to the y-pipe to pipe gasket leaking. The welds in the y-pipe were too large so they damaged the slotted gasket (it doesn't seat correctly). There are only three springs which makes it worse. Combine that with some carving and bumps and it is a bad combo. Check your exhaust connections for signs of leakage too!!
 
Update;

1. Set the TPS.

ECU 4.996V

Before:
Base 0.714
IDLE 0.947
WOT 4.43
IDLE RPM 1750-1800

After:
BASE 0.700
IDLE 0.940
WOT 4.310
IDLE RPM 1850-1900

2. Sealed the whole exhaust system with black silicone.

3. Changed the clutch completely with new helix, weights, primary- and secondary spring.

Still only pulling 8200 consistantly, saw 8300 twice...
Been riding for 100km today.

:face-icon-small-fro :face-icon-small-fro :face-icon-small-fro
 
Update;

1. Set the TPS.

ECU 4.996V

Before:
Base 0.714
IDLE 0.947
WOT 4.43
IDLE RPM 1750-1800

After:
BASE 0.700
IDLE 0.940
WOT 4.310
IDLE RPM 1850-1900

2. Sealed the whole exhaust system with black silicone.

3. Changed the clutch completely with new helix, weights, primary- and secondary spring.

Still only pulling 8200 consistantly, saw 8300 twice...
Been riding for 100km today.

:face-icon-small-fro :face-icon-small-fro :face-icon-small-fro

Are you me? LOL. Keep us informed if you find something that gets those RPMs to the mythical 8350. I'm going to try a different primary spring (one step heavier on finish weight, the old Polaris black-green).
 
Seems like the more I dig around this, the more people seem to have this exact problem...

Has anyone tried to clean and recalibrate the exhaust valves?
Pretty much the only thing I havent tried yet.

Might be getting some more info about this when people get home from their awesome trips with their working-as-intended axys.

For now, I dont know anything else other then to look at the valves. :face-icon-small-dis
 
Seems like the more I dig around this, the more people seem to have this exact problem...

Has anyone tried to clean and recalibrate the exhaust valves?
Pretty much the only thing I havent tried yet.

Might be getting some more info about this when people get home from their awesome trips with their working-as-intended axys.

For now, I dont know anything else other then to look at the valves. :face-icon-small-dis

I had my somewhat apart yesterday. I couldn't get them totally out, but they were out enough to do a decent clean job on 90% of the blades. PITA with my limited tools and mechanic skills. They didn't seem especially dirty, I'm not expecting that I made anything better.
 
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