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Pro rmk 2016 throttle rpm problems help!

Hello need a little bit of help when polaris sweden have no idea...

My pro doesnt pull full rpms when i give 100 % throttle only hit 8000rpm, but if i give 90-95% throttle it will go to 8250, yes 250 rpms more with less throttle,

the dealers in sweden have no idea and polaris here in sweden have no idea, they blame the map, but if it would be the map every machine would do the same i think and they doesnt.. the map is updated to 2017 ecu programming,and it was the same with 2016 map.. it has been since the machine was new.....

If someone have any tips im very happy for that
 
Hello need a little bit of help when polaris sweden have no idea...

My pro doesnt pull full rpms when i give 100 % throttle only hit 8000rpm, but if i give 90-95% throttle it will go to 8250, yes 250 rpms more with less throttle,

the dealers in sweden have no idea and polaris here in sweden have no idea, they blame the map, but if it would be the map every machine would do the same i think and they doesnt.. the map is updated to 2017 ecu programming,and it was the same with 2016 map.. it has been since the machine was new.....

If someone have any tips im very happy for that

Try a new belt? Deflection set properly? Clutches clean with properly functioning parts?
 
Try a new belt? Deflection set properly? Clutches clean with properly functioning parts?

its not a clutch problem, have tried differents belts, weights,stock clutches,cams,slp pipe,spi pipe,powercommander,

its a tps/wire/throttlebody problem i think, just like the throttle go over vertical and stop airflow into the engine thats how it feels.. tps is checked with polaris computer, exhaust port engine is calibrated ecu is updated. the sled has 490km on it...
 
its very likely a TPS issue. Checking this reading with the "polaris computer" only gives you the "idle" spec, NOT the "base" spec. The base spec is VERY important to be set accurate.

read this link about setting the TPS ... http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=404826

I also suspect your current Wide open throttle reading is too high, which could be directly related to the base setting being set too high. If the WOT reading goes above 4.38 volts the computer starts giving it way too much fuel and thats why your sled is running better and turning more RPM when you give it slightly less throttle.

If you understand all of this and can follow the steps in that link you are far better off doing this yourself.... Your dealer has already proven they cant fix it. Eric
 
its very likely a TPS issue. Checking this reading with the "polaris computer" only gives you the "idle" spec, NOT the "base" spec. The base spec is VERY important to be set accurate.

read this link about setting the TPS ... http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=404826

I also suspect your current Wide open throttle reading is too high, which could be directly related to the base setting being set too high. If the WOT reading goes above 4.38 volts the computer starts giving it way too much fuel and thats why your sled is running better and turning more RPM when you give it slightly less throttle.

If you understand all of this and can follow the steps in that link you are far better off doing this yourself.... Your dealer has already proven they cant fix it. Eric

was afraid for this answer, a friend of my told me the same answer and the same link as you.

its horrible that i am gonna take apart the half machine because polaris sweden cant fix a problem on a machine they selling and has warranty... why im buying a new machine is just because avoid this..

but thanks for the good answer!
 
its very likely a TPS issue. Checking this reading with the "polaris computer" only gives you the "idle" spec, NOT the "base" spec. The base spec is VERY important to be set accurate.

read this link about setting the TPS ... http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=404826

I also suspect your current Wide open throttle reading is too high, which could be directly related to the base setting being set too high. If the WOT reading goes above 4.38 volts the computer starts giving it way too much fuel and thats why your sled is running better and turning more RPM when you give it slightly less throttle.

If you understand all of this and can follow the steps in that link you are far better off doing this yourself.... Your dealer has already proven they cant fix it. Eric



I have been figthing some RPM issues myself, and want to check my TPS. But wouldit be sufficient to hook an TPS tester up and just check if the full throttle measurement is above 4.38V you mention here?

I have a tester setup bought on here with the 9v battery.
 
I have been figthing some RPM issues myself, and want to check my TPS. But wouldit be sufficient to hook an TPS tester up and just check if the full throttle measurement is above 4.38V you mention here?

I have a tester setup bought on here with the 9v battery.

No, because thats only one part of the picture, you need to look at all 3. If the base and idle are correct, the wot will almost always be fine. The other part of the issue is the TPS sensor polaris uses all have a slightly different range to them, thats why sometime you will get one with a correct base, but too high of WOT reading. This is rare though, and I dont even mention it as part of adjusting them. I'm just bringing it up in this thread because it sounds like it is a problem in this situation.

I wouldnt use that tester and 9v battery. I would do its as listed in the above link. Eric
 
I think I have this same problem. Though for me I only drop about 100 RPM from 95% throttle to 100% - the sound is more noticeable than the RPM. I've done the TPS adjustment following the snowest thread, and also had the dealer do it, same results after both though it does idle and start better after the dealer did it. Maybe I should try a new TPS.
 
No, because thats only one part of the picture, you need to look at all 3. If the base and idle are correct, the wot will almost always be fine. The other part of the issue is the TPS sensor polaris uses all have a slightly different range to them, thats why sometime you will get one with a correct base, but too high of WOT reading. This is rare though, and I dont even mention it as part of adjusting them. I'm just bringing it up in this thread because it sounds like it is a problem in this situation.

I wouldnt use that tester and 9v battery. I would do its as listed in the above link. Eric

now i got the tps check im forget to check the idle value before im lossening the screw but the tps value was .723 so it was way over. everything is now setup like your guide,tomorrow its test ride il be back with results.

ps my idle was 1900-1950rpm before a little bit high, and needed a little bit of throttle when started up hot. always died first time im push the reverse button from cold start "inside garage 20celsius", doesnt pull full rpm above 90-95% throttle.
 
now i got the tps check im forget to check the idle value before im lossening the screw but the tps value was .723 so it was way over. everything is now setup like your guide,tomorrow its test ride il be back with results.

ps my idle was 1900-1950rpm before a little bit high, and needed a little bit of throttle when started up hot. always died first time im push the reverse button from cold start "inside garage 20celsius", doesnt pull full rpm above 90-95% throttle.

Looking forward to hear what you find!
 
Looking forward to hear what you find!

have been out a little trip,felt it alot more responsive, but the top end rpm is the same... 8050 and then i went back to a little less throttle and it gave 8100-8200rpm, but one thing in my mind is now we got less than 1feet of snow maybe a little less of traction, will be testing in more snow soon again and come back with more answers and then we will see....
 
now i got the tps check im forget to check the idle value before im lossening the screw but the tps value was .723 so it was way over. everything is now setup like your guide,tomorrow its test ride il be back with results.

ps my idle was 1900-1950rpm before a little bit high, and needed a little bit of throttle when started up hot. always died first time im push the reverse button from cold start "inside garage 20celsius", doesnt pull full rpm above 90-95% throttle.


After you set the Base and Idle, what did your WOT reading end up being? And did you happen to check the WOT reading before you adjusted it? Eric
 
After you set the Base and Idle, what did your WOT reading end up being? And did you happen to check the WOT reading before you adjusted it? Eric

Im forgetted to check wot before but now i got 4,37v at WOT. The sled is pulling more in 90% throttle. Talked to my other dealer and they thinking about switch out the ecu on the sled.
 
I had the same issue, won't make power above 90% throttle! I shortened my pipe and changed the choke tube size to run 8300 to 8400 rpm, it runs flawless now. My sled rocks now. Friends who have identical sleds have rode mine and told me that these are not the same sleds because mine runs so much much better and makes so much more power! Not saying that this is the cure all, but it solved my issue. Shorting the pipe made more power at a little higher rpm and the choke size held the pipe heat.
 

have tried some setups.

*all stock

*stock with slp exhaust

*Epi 68g, 170-327, 54-44.36/56-42.36, team black purple

*Slp mtx 71G with 2 grams in the heel , 2+1 in tip, 170-300, same secondary setup

*Slp mtx 71G with 2 grams in the heel , 2+1 in tip 170-300 same secondary setup + spi pipe pcw with 1-3 + timing around 8100-8500 no difference

also tried these setups with team gold 180-345 and no difference. 45lbs more then slp orange 170-300 and it wont pull anymore rpm.

the most of peoples use this setups here in sweden and they hit peak rpm but mine doesn't.
 
I had the same issue, won't make power above 90% throttle! I shortened my pipe and changed the choke tube size to run 8300 to 8400 rpm, it runs flawless now. My sled rocks now. Friends who have identical sleds have rode mine and told me that these are not the same sleds because mine runs so much much better and makes so much more power! Not saying that this is the cure all, but it solved my issue. Shorting the pipe made more power at a little higher rpm and the choke size held the pipe heat.

do you have any facts on this pipe mod?
 
Kens allmec bromsade en axys 2016 som gav full effekt vid 7800 varv med orginal pipan och 8350 med slp pipa
 
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