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PRC Forced Induction crankshaft mod

It would be great to see an independent Dyno run the test and not someone who may want to sell you product in the end.

That helps to keep it "real"

My 2 cents

AND as I've said...this will be the hottest sellin mod on the snow next season if you have a reputable dyno shop do before and after of the same engine.
 
In this age of "tornado" air inlets that give 10% increase in power, Chips that "increase mileage and power by 30%", in line fuel magnets that help to atomize fuel better....

You have to agree that there is certainly good reason, in this day and age, to be skeptical of this crank mod giving a noticeable increase in power.

If you mod does work as claimed or even gives a 10% increase in power on an independent dyno, on the same engine…same pipe and fuel conditions…same day… same temp and baro conditions…. Only changing the crank then your shop will be the busiest shop out there.

So yes hardass, if it gives 15% increase in power output from the average modern 800cc Twin sled engine.... it will be one of the best values in performance mods to date.

I'd like to see someone like Dale Cutler, Jack Struthers or Indy Dan endorse this product... then I'd have it done to all my sleds.

you forgot fuel fitch!
 
I can see it helping with fuel atomization and that will help a bunch. The better the fuel atomization the leaner you can safely jet and make more HP with a faster burn and less ignition advance. With a faster burn and less ignition advance you can get more work done on the piston dome after top dead center before the exhaust port opens.

Twenty years ago when a friend who owned a yami dealership talked me into porting engines for his customers as I was porting my own engines I spent a full month researching two stokes in SAE Engineering papers going all the way back to the 1930's at the U of MN Science and Technology library. Found two things that I thought would help build better and more reliable engines while making more HP with wider power bands.

As far as fuel atomization or lack of goes, a 2-stroke is the ugliest engine ever invented!!!

Enhanced fuel atomization and very accurate (2 or 3 thou) upper timing edges on the transfers were the two things I found in a month of reading. Atomization was proved out when my buddy called me one day ready to pull his hair out. Customer had brought in a SRV fan that a numnuts had ported and polished and piped. They had it jetted so rich fuel was running out of the pipe and it still stuck pistons. I tore it down and recut the transfers so they were accurate to a few thou and then sandblasted with coarse media all intake areas. They bolted it back together and end up jetting it down four or five sizes and it ran great with no burndowns and increased performance. I was surprised!!!

In the same vane of fuel atomization and variable port ID's I will be doing this to one of my engines this summer. Stumbled upon this recently. Powre Lynz + Somender Singh Grooves

http://www.allpar.com/fix/holler/head-porting2.html

Their always something, and its imposible to know what you don't know.

Good Luck
 
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dood, you put this on a credible dyno ( dyno tech prefferably ,, not SLP's lol )
and it shows half of what you claim you will be up to you eyeballs in orders.
dyno credibility i think is important, if you could baseline a stock known sled with the same dyno to calibrate to ,, test say an 08 M8,, if it shows 180 hp stock ,, we know that dyno is off a bit..
you show us you sled before and after and a control stocker with known values to validate,, again dynotech or similiar trusted and known 3rd party places, that have nothing to gain by showing falsified or inflated numbers one way or another. but if you do use slp's, it will show a directional change still

Call Jim @ Dynotech and ask because I think he's already tested crank mods like ths.
 
Guys he said straightline performance was testing them,not sure what they would have to gain by "boosting" the numbers like SLP would.

whether it really works or not I'm interested to see the out come.

Will be looking forward to seeing results and testimonals.
 
So what happened to the dyno run in april you were having done? Regardless of what the out come people are going to get this done just because it was talked about. a person could have the worst product in the world and some will buy it just because. There have been a ton of junk products put out in the sledding world and hi dollar ones that did not work but lot's of people bought them and are still buying them. a certain percent are compelled to buy no matter what it is or how it works. Thats the principle on the tv stuff sold.

So what happened obviously you have your design and have done the testing yet i'm not hearing about this every where like you would expect.
 
1" of throttle in the video? Man I'm sold too

this brings to mind a mod I am currently working on which could potentially be retrofitted onto any sled.

I would make the handlebar portion next to the throttle lever narrower. In this way, the throttle lever would not stop until after it opens a bit more giving you extra hp.

lots of times, I am wide open throttle and i wish i had just a little more. With the narrower handlebar, you get that little extra ooompphh you need to pull that summit.

I have a prototype ready to go. What I did was used a hack saw to notch the handlebar. Then I am going to duct tape a 2x4 to the back of the handlebar to give it structural rigidity. Yo can never use short cuts when it comes to safety. Money is no object so I am using Sears brand duct tape, just like the pros do.
 
I'm calling shenanigans on your mod. If money was no object you'd be using gorilla tape.

And you would be water cooling the hacksaw when you cut the bar so that the cutting heat doesn't weaken the metal. Also, I expect to see No. 1 Spruce 2x4's on this mod, not just the No. 3 crap you buy at Home Desperate.

Don't just do a "hack" job - Do it right or don't it at all.



Lazy ****ers.......

NSC
 
this brings to mind a mod I am currently working on which could potentially be retrofitted onto any sled.

I would make the handlebar portion next to the throttle lever narrower. In this way, the throttle lever would not stop until after it opens a bit more giving you extra hp.

lots of times, I am wide open throttle and i wish i had just a little more. With the narrower handlebar, you get that little extra ooompphh you need to pull that summit.

I have a prototype ready to go. What I did was used a hack saw to notch the handlebar. Then I am going to duct tape a 2x4 to the back of the handlebar to give it structural rigidity. Yo can never use short cuts when it comes to safety. Money is no object so I am using Sears brand duct tape, just like the pros do.

LMAO!!! That is some funny stuff. :beer;
 
Any results yet offically?

And knee deep in it, your still going cheap on the 2x4 cause it needs to be treated, for that custom look and weather durability

Darn half azzers
 
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