Powderlites Turbo Nytro MTX install thread

[obr]

Anyone got pics of the fuel rail on the 08, I think the 09 might have a few differences. Man, I think even the new directions could be a little better, more pics.

obr, have you tried callin Powderlites? Let us know what is up with that thing.

Intercooler rubber bushings for hangers? I think my kit is missin these, or are they salvaged from somewhere off the stock stuff?

So far we've had to do some grinding and fabin and reworkin of some of the kit pieces, no big deal, but was curious if everyone else had to do the same?

What's the problem on the fuel rail? I could take some pics on the 08 just let me know what you need...have the sled in pieces again now to change timing...didn't take the motor out this time just tilted it forward...but that chain tensioner is a PITA to get to with the engine just tilted....

I would call Powderlites, but I'm in Norway, and just got a work-phone, and they do not like international calls..that's the reason I have to ask all questions on an open forum...doesn't make me feel like a genius, so I'm going to buy another phone and start calling....

I had to grind to make the muffler fit, and to make the aluminum parts that the air filter is going through fit. (I've got the first generation kit)

Other than that, we just need some more pics in the directions to make it easier...I know my next install will only take 1/4th of the time this one did...

 

[WingNutRacing]

modified

Not too much, some things just needed a little adjusting. One of the coolant tubes on the turbo was touching the wastegate acuator, had to be bent a little, loosened, adjusted and retightened. The wastegate actuator was rubbing on the bracket it was bolted to, made hole bigger. The turbo hanger. The "L" bracket bolting the turbo itself to the hanger didn't fit right with the holes on the turbo, had to do some grinding, also, all the bends on the 3 piece hanger are straight, but the tunnell is not, just didn't like riveting it with space between things, gonna fab up a spacer or different bracket to adjust for the angles of the tunnell. Nothing real big, I just really like stuff to fit right and tight. I really like the kit I'm just a little obsessive about my stuff. Kit was also missing parts, but that's easily taken care of.

Just wanted to look at one of the 08 fuel rails, no issues, just curious.

Thanks fellas.

 

[08nytromtxa]

boost controller?

anyone else having problems with the "t" on their boost lines which lead to controller. was in revelstoke and could not adjust my boost.. was a real piss off to say in the least. brought it back to the guy that installed it and put his boost controller on it which deleted the purpose of the "T" in the line and worked perfect. anyone else have this problem. thinking of just getting different controller.

 

[08nytromtxa]

anyone have any pictures of how they have it hooked up i will try and take some tomorroow to confirm

 

[obr]

Well, the sled fired just fine, and ran good. What worries me is that the AF readings said 14,5 and would not change no matter how much you where on and off the throttle...even at idle it was 14,5. Fuel pressure was fine at 45.

And then, when we gave it enough throttle to start the turbo spinning, it came on good, but when he let off the throttle, the sled just dies instantly.

It fired again, and ran fine. Then, same thing happens again. Boost comes on, he lets off the throttle, sled dies.

Now it will not fire again. Not even a bit. No error codes, nothing. Engine turnes over fine, but it almost seems like there's no ignition. Could it have fouled plugs? Seems strange, but that's the closest I can come to a conclusion...

And, any idea why the AF reading wont change?

 

[HYFLYR]

Sounds like your co's are alittle lean, trying going up in segments of 5 across each cylinder.

 

[obr]

it might be, and I will try adjusting it, but I'm not sure that's what makes it unwilling to fire again? -The engine turnes over like normal, but it's just like it does not get either fuel or spark... The fuel pressure is there, so I'm thinking ignition....But, I really have no clue right now...

 

[jrusher]

anyone else having problems with the "t" on their boost lines which lead to controller. was in revelstoke and could not adjust my boost.. was a real piss off to say in the least. brought it back to the guy that installed it and put his boost controller on it which deleted the purpose of the "T" in the line and worked perfect. anyone else have this problem. thinking of just getting different controller.

Make sure you remove the check ball in the "T".. Also make sure your boost controller is mounted so the two nipples are facing downwards.. I mounted mine facing up and it frooze up on me first trip had no boost adjustment

 

[08nytromtxa]

yes took T apart ball and spring were removed and it is mounted so the lines are facing down. is your boost controller working now jrusher?

 

[jrusher]

yes took T apart ball and spring were removed and it is mounted so the lines are facing down. is your boost controller working now jrusher?

Ya its been working great.. Ive just been running 12 lbs boost got about 700 or 800 km of mountain riding now hasnt missed a beat..

 

[WingNutRacing]

this week

Gonna fire mine up this week. Sorry to hear about the problems obr, I hope I don't run into these issues. I refabbed my intake with some different parts, i'll have to post some pics of it later.

 

[WingNutRacing]

fired up!

Well started the ride up last night. A few issues: primed up everything and bled out air. Started to crank it over and it started to flash a CODE 12. Tried a few things, called Dave at Powderlites, come to find out, it was the ignition, or key switch plugs, the ones on the RB3 harness with the three blue and one red wires, were'nt plugged into the key switch plugs. Plugged them in and fired right up and no codes and ran perfectly.

After thinking about it, and reading the Powderlites instructions about 3 times. At no time were these plugs identified, so am I wrong that this is an easy mistake? Just wondering, could be detailed in the instructions a little better.

 

[obr]

Had the same problem with mine, but it turned out to be the main conection to the RB3 box. The insulation around it kept it from getting connected all the way in, and code 12 went flashing....Pulled the insulation back a bit, put it back in, problem solved....

But, now I have bigger problems I need to figure out..Something is definatly wrong in the valve train... The INTAKE side valves are hitting the pistons (one and three). The timing was spot on, when I fired it up the first time, and the pistons were definatly not hitting the valves...

I think the chain tensioner must be the problem here....I'm taking it down to my dealer to check valves and rods....will let you guys know what we figure out when we open it...

I think this Nytro is the son of the Devil..never had any problems building turbo sleds before, but building this one made me feel like a complete Noob....

The kit isn't the problem, just want to point that out....

 

[Lococoin]

Well started the ride up last night. A few issues: primed up everything and bled out air. Started to crank it over and it started to flash a CODE 12. Tried a few things, called Dave at Powderlites, come to find out, it was the ignition, or key switch plugs, the ones on the RB3 harness with the three blue and one red wires, were'nt plugged into the key switch plugs. Plugged them in and fired right up and no codes and ran perfectly.

After thinking about it, and reading the Powderlites instructions about 3 times. At no time were these plugs identified, so am I wrong that this is an easy mistake? Just wondering, could be detailed in the instructions a little better.

I did the same thing when i installed mine. I saw the connector that wasnt plugged into anything but thought it was for the laptop connector. So i got the crank position sensor code when i tried to fire mine up as well. Easy fix but ya i felt like a bit of a dummy, now i feel better though! Thanks

 

[RACINSTATION]

Found one other problem. There are two black connectors on the harness that goes across the intercooler and rests above the clutch. The RB3 will plug in there as well as the timing plugs that are behind the frame above the clutch. Just clarification, but if you plug RB3 into the wrong ones, it will fit and you will not have any power.

 

[TOPGUN]

LOL, man do I know that problem...............LOL. I did that very thing with the identcal plugs

 

[RACINSTATION]

The best part is testing resistance on every plug on the whole sled 10 time trying to find out where the power is being lost. Makes for a good evening. I am in the process of doing some photos and an install guide to help first timers. All in all, a very good kit with good support!

 

[Lococoin]

I thought I would bump this up in case there are people looking for install info.

The sled ran pretty good last year but not perfect. The fuel mapping was not to my specifications and it had the hesitation when on and off the throttle. PL said they think it is fixed but only time will tell. The sled never once left me stranded though and powerlites customer service is excellent! I would still recommend their kit to anyone.

Other than modifying the intake with a 90 degree elbow and moving the vacuum source for the fuel pressure regulator I did not have to make any changes to the kit.

Planned mods for this year are 430 cc injectors and I have picked up a hallman boost controller with the cable so i can adjust it from the handlebars. The stock boost controller is a bleed style which can hurt spool up time and it is also not very good quality.

I am on the fence on buying a new rear skid, I have the venture MP gas shock in the rear and apex springs in the stock skid. It is better than stock but still nowhere near what I would like. Right now I am leaning towards the KMOD Gen II skid, keep my apex 162 rails and run some bigger rear wheels to try and offset the tipped up rails.