R
Ron
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Polaris P85 Drive Clutch
- Thread starter Ron
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E
EricW
Well-known member
Ron & Others:
Great posts and great info. So many things are clicking in my head now and I haven't read it all. Ron, I would love a word version to add to my binder at the shop, EricW@centurytel.net.
The clutch below came off a buddies 05 700 Edge. He bought it used and dropped it off for me to have a look at. Looking over the clutch i noticed a lot of wear from the weights into the tower area. I have never had any of my clutches look this bad. The sled seems well maintained and not abused.
Questions:
Is this amount of wear unusual, can it be cured with the Comet shim washer fix or is the tower toast?
Is it common for the towers to be worn that bad and the weights look OK. Maybe they replaced the weights that did all the damage???
What kind of issues would create marks like these?
I appreciate any help or insight. EW
Great posts and great info. So many things are clicking in my head now and I haven't read it all. Ron, I would love a word version to add to my binder at the shop, EricW@centurytel.net.
The clutch below came off a buddies 05 700 Edge. He bought it used and dropped it off for me to have a look at. Looking over the clutch i noticed a lot of wear from the weights into the tower area. I have never had any of my clutches look this bad. The sled seems well maintained and not abused.
Questions:
Is this amount of wear unusual, can it be cured with the Comet shim washer fix or is the tower toast?
Is it common for the towers to be worn that bad and the weights look OK. Maybe they replaced the weights that did all the damage???
What kind of issues would create marks like these?
I appreciate any help or insight. EW
Buy another clutch....
Dan wouldnt work on it... LOL...
The weights are easy... I sent you a link for the better quality wieght bushings.
You could rebuild it... but you are talking some serious money.
That belt is slipping in general..
I'd go with a carls clutch kit for the sled and a new clean 080 belt.... proper shimming and proper deflection
Looks like a bit of Scrubbing at WOT... maybe check the motor mounts as well.
Dan wouldnt work on it... LOL...
The weights are easy... I sent you a link for the better quality wieght bushings.
You could rebuild it... but you are talking some serious money.
That belt is slipping in general..
I'd go with a carls clutch kit for the sled and a new clean 080 belt.... proper shimming and proper deflection
Looks like a bit of Scrubbing at WOT... maybe check the motor mounts as well.
With that amount of wear on the bushing and towers... the clutch was not working properly for a while.
That could account for poor clutching and belt slip..
Pull the springs and weights... bolt the cover back on and check for slop in the bushings int he cover and moveable shieve.
This is why it is important to service the bushings in the weights... especially with the heavier (60+ gm) weights!!
That could account for poor clutching and belt slip..
Pull the springs and weights... bolt the cover back on and check for slop in the bushings int he cover and moveable shieve.
This is why it is important to service the bushings in the weights... especially with the heavier (60+ gm) weights!!
I've shimmed the weight in clutches before with no issue. I don't see why it would be a big deal. I've seen much much worse than that 
. New springs and bushings and get things adjusted right like mountainhorse stated.
. New springs and bushings and get things adjusted right like mountainhorse stated.
R
Ron
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Eric,
If you have the tools, know how and time you might salvage the clutch but like MH said it's probably better to buy a new clutch.
The weight has worn a deep groove on the thrust side where it mounts. This wear can be offset with a Comet shim washer or maybe several washers. As the weight ground out a groove it can now swing wider until the tip hits the spider. When this happens the clutch hangs, maybe creating some of the belt scrub. If he rode the sled too long with the weights binding then there's a possibility that the weights and rollers have begun to develop a flat spot. There is a lot of force exerted when the parts hang. This also puts more wear on the edge of the weight bushings so they are likely shot.
It's also probable that the button/tower tolerance is excessive letting the clutch flop at full shift-bad for the crank. The buttons can be replaced and shimmed but the wear to the aluminum tower can't be fixed. This wear can be measured.
Finally the guide bushings in the sheaves are probably toast.
When you add up the cost of the parts and the useful life of a rebuilt clutch it's probably not worth rebuilding even if you "do it yourself". These are a lot of assumptions made looking at a couple of pic's.
Ron
If you have the tools, know how and time you might salvage the clutch but like MH said it's probably better to buy a new clutch.
The weight has worn a deep groove on the thrust side where it mounts. This wear can be offset with a Comet shim washer or maybe several washers. As the weight ground out a groove it can now swing wider until the tip hits the spider. When this happens the clutch hangs, maybe creating some of the belt scrub. If he rode the sled too long with the weights binding then there's a possibility that the weights and rollers have begun to develop a flat spot. There is a lot of force exerted when the parts hang. This also puts more wear on the edge of the weight bushings so they are likely shot.
It's also probable that the button/tower tolerance is excessive letting the clutch flop at full shift-bad for the crank. The buttons can be replaced and shimmed but the wear to the aluminum tower can't be fixed. This wear can be measured.
Finally the guide bushings in the sheaves are probably toast.
When you add up the cost of the parts and the useful life of a rebuilt clutch it's probably not worth rebuilding even if you "do it yourself". These are a lot of assumptions made looking at a couple of pic's.
Ron
plz send a copy to me at twostrokecoldsmoke@hotmail.com
Can someone go into some details on what is needed to take the primary apart? I am wanting to change out the spring. I have a home made compressor that works on the Ski Doo clutch, hoping I can use that maybe weld something up. any help here?
Thanks
Thanks
You don't need a compressor for changing a primary spring. Just remove the 6 bolts on the cover. Make sure to undo them evenly so you don't trash the cover bushing.
thanks
I know this is for the P85, but I can't find a good thread on the Team Secondary.
I can't seem to get my helix to seat all the way down. Is there a trick to this? I really need to get the secondary on so I can take it up to my own garage and do some more work (tonight).
Thanks
I can't seem to get my helix to seat all the way down. Is there a trick to this? I really need to get the secondary on so I can take it up to my own garage and do some more work (tonight).
Thanks
Alright, I got the driven helix on with a nice little smack on it with a hammer using a 2x4 to protect it.
Now I can't get the bolt on the primary to go in without turning the crank....
Any suggestions?
Now I can't get the bolt on the primary to go in without turning the crank....
Any suggestions?
mile high..try lightly tapping the primary with a 2x4 to get it to seat on the taper..(make darn sure the taper and crank end are spotless clean(lightly sand,steelwool,or scotchbrite)that should seat it enough to torque it...
I cleaned the taper of the crank and the matching side on the clutch with a light sand and brake clean.
The problem is that I tried to put the bolt in with no clutch, and it would just spin the crank at one point.
I finally put the clutch on pushing it in kinda hard to seat it on the crank. With that I was able to some what hold the clutch which in turn held the crank. The bolt slid past that one spot and seemed fine. I think there might have been a little something in there. While I had the clutch off I installed the Holz vent up there to make cutting and drilling easier. Slight chance I got a little something inside there (plastic maybe).
The thought didn't even cross my mind that I should have covered the bolt hole going into the crank when doing something like that. Maybe someone else will read this and learn something from it. No damage to me but it was a bit of a pain for something that should be simple.
The problem is that I tried to put the bolt in with no clutch, and it would just spin the crank at one point.
I finally put the clutch on pushing it in kinda hard to seat it on the crank. With that I was able to some what hold the clutch which in turn held the crank. The bolt slid past that one spot and seemed fine. I think there might have been a little something in there. While I had the clutch off I installed the Holz vent up there to make cutting and drilling easier. Slight chance I got a little something inside there (plastic maybe).
The thought didn't even cross my mind that I should have covered the bolt hole going into the crank when doing something like that. Maybe someone else will read this and learn something from it. No damage to me but it was a bit of a pain for something that should be simple.
Great thread!! I've read through it but need some advice I may have over looked.
2009 RMK 800.........I CAN NOT get the primary off. Any tips??
Tried the "hydraulic" techique
Tried tapping on the clutch puller
Tried heat
I've got this thing off NOW! Any help would be great!
2009 RMK 800.........I CAN NOT get the primary off. Any tips??
Tried the "hydraulic" techique
Tried tapping on the clutch puller
Tried heat
I've got this thing off NOW! Any help would be great!
Hey Paul,
Try putting a lot of torque on the puller and then walk away from it for awhile. Come back to it and give it a little more and she should break loose.
Other methods that are sometimes frowned upon are the tapping on the puller that you tried. Again, torque the puller as hard as you can. Give it a couple of minutes and give it a good tap. I would use a plastic or rubber mallet if you are doing this.
A lot of people use the impact wrench on these too. Never seem to give them problems.
Try putting a lot of torque on the puller and then walk away from it for awhile. Come back to it and give it a little more and she should break loose.
Other methods that are sometimes frowned upon are the tapping on the puller that you tried. Again, torque the puller as hard as you can. Give it a couple of minutes and give it a good tap. I would use a plastic or rubber mallet if you are doing this.
A lot of people use the impact wrench on these too. Never seem to give them problems.
Thanks Monte! I ended up getting it when one of my friends showed up and hit it like it wasn't his. LOL Heat, brake fluid, Teflon tape and a lot of patience.
Now I have to figure out why in 2500 miles one of the rollers is TOAST! I've never had roller go this soon. Weight is scared up too so I guess I'll need replace as well yes?
Yeah, if the weight has suffered from the roller failure it will probably just damage the new roller. I would go with some aftermarket weights anyway. I've seen the stock weights differ by as much as 3g. from each other.
A lot of different aftermarket options out there. If you want to stick with a stock style then get them from team. If you want to put the power to the ground consider MTX, Heavy hitters or Rons weights which are probably the easiest bolt and go.
A lot of different aftermarket options out there. If you want to stick with a stock style then get them from team. If you want to put the power to the ground consider MTX, Heavy hitters or Rons weights which are probably the easiest bolt and go.
The weights I put in it were any where from 68.2 grams to 68.8 grams. I made sure to fix that before I installed them.
Thanks!
