pneumatic rivet gun

[drscotch]

I think Princess Auto is the Canadian version of Harbor Freight. I usually avoid their Chinese tools but the air riveter has worked great and was cheap. Looks identical to the Harbor Freight unit pictured above.

I've had really good luck with Hitachi 12V impacts.

 

[BiffMC]

Harbor Frieght, done 100's of rivits with NO issues.

 

[76FOMOCO]

another for Harbor Freight Riveter....hundreds of rivets, no issues...

had a problem with mine, you need to add a little oil to it. lol

 

[searafter35]

how much oil?

Anybody know how much oil to put in the harbor freight rivet gun? I can't seem to get my to work.

 

[skibreeze]

Anybody know how much oil to put in the harbor freight rivet gun? I can't seem to get my to work.

Shouldn't need more than a few drops periodically if you don't have an inline oiler. I have the small one and the big one, if it won't snap the rivet, you may need the bigger one.

 

[TRS]

Have the harbor freight gun(keep your saftey glasses on) and the Huck, prefer the Huck it seems to pull the rivets tighter but the cost is high $400+. Good call on the Clecos they are a must use product. Mittler Bros. has a good supply of clecos.

 

[Adrenaline Revolution]

If you want stronger rivets, especially for tunnel extentions and structure work the absolute best way to go is with driven rivets, not pulled.
Pulled rivets are hollow and nowhere near as strong as a driven.
Here's the driver...(Chicago Pneumatic, cheap but worthy)

http://www.hansonrivet.com/w80b.htm

You can actually get away with the cheapies that most auto parts stores carry for body work.

Practice first on a blank piece of aluminium before turning yourself loose on your tunnel though.
I've done many extentions on mine and friend's sleds and the results with a driven rivet are very professional. It looks like it's stock!

And yes, HUCK brand will last long after we are gone. Best puller available

 

[Gimpster]

If you want stronger rivets, especially for tunnel extentions and structure work the absolute best way to go is with driven rivets, not pulled.
Pulled rivets are hollow and nowhere near as strong as a driven.
Here's the driver...(Chicago Pneumatic, cheap but worthy)

http://www.hansonrivet.com/w80b.htm

You can actually get away with the cheapies that most auto parts stores carry for body work.

Practice first on a blank piece of aluminium before turning yourself loose on your tunnel though.
I've done many extentions on mine and friend's sleds and the results with a driven rivet are very professional. It looks like it's stock!

And yes, HUCK brand will last long after we are gone. Best puller available

I broke one of those CP hammers off just above the trigger once.
Must have been playin'to hard !

----- Gimpster -----

 

[snowcatter]

The Huck air rivet gun is the best one I have used period. Expensive, but it will be the last one you ever buy. Very compact and very strong. It is also sold under the MAC tools name. I found one on ebay for $350

 

[Trashy]

If you want stronger rivets, especially for tunnel extentions and structure work the absolute best way to go is with driven rivets, not pulled.
Pulled rivets are hollow and nowhere near as strong as a driven.
Here's the driver...(Chicago Pneumatic, cheap but worthy)

http://www.hansonrivet.com/w80b.htm

You can actually get away with the cheapies that most auto parts stores carry for body work.

Practice first on a blank piece of aluminium before turning yourself loose on your tunnel though.
I've done many extentions on mine and friend's sleds and the results with a driven rivet are very professional. It looks like it's stock!

And yes, HUCK brand will last long after we are gone. Best puller available

Yep,
there is a reason why most aircraft rivets are this type!
Not only are the rivets solid, but the forming process work-hardens the rivet making it even tougher yet! Also, you can get rivets that fit flush once fitted.