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Please Help Before I burn my sled to the ground!!!!

Having some issues. My High flow intank pump went out. Then I put a brand new Walbro 195 intank pump in it. Still wouldn't run right and build fuel pressure. I changed out the regulator and installed a Turbo Smart FPR. That thing ended up in the garbage. Put a Bosch on it and now it seems to build good static fuel pressure.

Now that I have the fueling system working, I can't get the POS to pull above 4600 RPM. Acts like the ECU is sending a Code, but no codes are flashing. Kinda acts like when it is low on Antifreeze. Antifreeze is full. Just acts like the engine timing is retarding for some reason. I can't put a finger on it.

Anyone have any idea's?

Thanks in advance!!!

One thought: Have you pull the leads off of a sensor to see if you do get a code. Maybe you have codes, but no display?
 
I'm betting the fuel pump prolly put about the same load on the system that the resistor would so he prolly was covered. When they run without the resistor or some other load the ECU doesn't run poorly......it lets all the smoke out and just quits.

Please don't ask how I know this(twice).....LOL

I don't know about that.... I'm running all the same stuff he's running w/o headlights but I'm also using the resistor. No shortage of power but I ran into issues while trying to pull too much power out of the original fuel pump wires. Was too weak to run the pump, EGTs, and fuel control box so I had to tap into a different power source. I'm assuming those leads are regulated power.
 
I don't know about that.... I'm running all the same stuff he's running w/o headlights but I'm also using the resistor. No shortage of power but I ran into issues while trying to pull too much power out of the original fuel pump wires. Was too weak to run the pump, EGTs, and fuel control box so I had to tap into a different power source. I'm assuming those leads are regulated power.


In my testing I found the stock fuel pump circuit is only good for just under two amps of draw until the voltage drops way low. It comes from it's own stator winding right into the ECU where it must get rectified for the stock pump. I don't try to run anything from it.

The lighting coil part of the stator is actually pretty strong and overpowers the voltage regulator without a load. Either lights or a resistor will load the circuit enough to keep the ECU from getting the smoke let out of it.

I agree totally!.... the system is plenty strong enough to run all those things plus the resistor. I did the same thing last year with my turbo system. Absolutely no electrical problems.

What I believe is....based on all of the aftermarket pumps I tested draw more than my resistor does, so I think the pump will load the circuit enough, so the resistor wouldn't be necc... and if the ECU is going to be a problem .....it is going to be a big problem.... as in cooked.
 
ersonally i would try the turbo. i think that it is giving you the problems. i had one that would spin great with your fingers but after a year and a half that was the last thing it could be and we put a new center section in it and it runs great now.
 
The problem now that I am having is this: The sled will run, when you drive it, it will spool up and run to max RPM, and then you let off the throttle enough to cruise, and it will start to cruise RPMs to 6000 to 7000 then it will die. Then I let off the throttle and it will come back on. Then i give her throttle and it will die, let off and she comes on. Then before you know it the sled comes to a stop and you give her gas, and she will die, then you let off quickly and she will come back on. then you have to flip the throttle quickly multiple times then she will move cruise then the same process starts over again.

If I had more hair, I would have pulled it out by now. This sled is really driving me crazy.
 
you should put propane on it............just kiddin! :face-icon-small-hap



Someone mentioned the throttle safety switch. The one next to the flipper that is a safety incase of a frozen cable. It sounds like that sure could be a possibilty. For test purposes you could unplug the three prong plug to the kill switch. I think it has violet, vio/wht, and blk/blu wires in it. Since this would dissable the kill switch the only way to kill the sled is via the key switch.

Good luck!
 
pump

Not sure if this will help ?

But something I noticed when I put the Walbro hi volume pump in my Polaris
t900. I had to run 35psi @ idle for fuel pressure instead of 38 psi .Or under boost the sled would fall on its face around 6000 rpm from Over fueling.
It had the same symptoms you are having.

Just a thought!
 
I found the problem on my sled. I unhooked my boondocker and put it back to the stock connectors to the fuel injectors. Now it runs like it should. Good luck getting yours figured out. Hope this helps someone.
 
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