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Please Help Before I burn my sled to the ground!!!!

It almost sounds like the throttle safety switch in the the throttle block, I would try and unplug everything going to the handle bars and run it.

Other possibles but not likely as the way you discribed but, have you checked to see if the power valve servo motor is working, take the cover off and watch for it to move, you may want to pull the PV and disconnect the cables fro the servo, then pull on them and make sure they arent binding.

I also heard once of a guy that had problems because of the brake light wiring, the system needs the brake light working and nothing shorting or drawing power from it or it will rob power from the servo motor and make it run like dog chit.

There is a main ground on the mag side of the motor. Where the steering loop bolts to the bulk head. it is on the inside of the bulk head attached to one of the bolts on the steering loop with a nut on the back of the bolt. Many guys that don't know about this screw it up (twist it off) trying to replace the steering post because you have to take off the nut first to get the bolt out of the loop. It is hard to see.

Is fuel pressure staying where it needs to be. Heard of this a few times, the smart valves in the tank will not allow anything but gas through them, so if there is water in the tank it just wont suck. Just for what ever reason I would drain it completely and put new fuel in.

Or your fuel controller took a chit.
 
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I HAD AN M7T and aalways had electrical gremlins it was like ther was never enough stator output to run all the fuel pumps and oil pumps, the AEM guage seemed to be the last straw to the stator,you might consider the chassis. CCUmodule to make more DC voltage works on the 8s not shure about the 7s...and if i remember corectly below 10psi the stock fuel pump kept up don't know what boost your running?l
 
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Oh man sounds like you have tried everything... I feel for ya, was there last year. Try to find another ECM if you can and make sure you check all your electrical connections... I had a intermittent connection from my box to one of the primary injectors... Looked like it was plugged in fine caused pretty much the same problems. Try to find a PDF manual online, I bought one one from Midwest Manuals for 11 bucks.. .It's awesome and has all the resistances you can check in stator, injectors ect..

Good luck man!
 
its a cd that you can get off ebay for 10 bucks, its the manual in pdf format wich is pretty nice, its got everything in it from torque specs to wiring shcematics from top to bottom. worth the 10 bones in my opinion.
 
Hate to sound like a broken record but dude,,,,,
Its that rebuild stator.

I'm less than 1 hr from them and would sell the sled before I put one in.
Dont get wrong,, for a trail guy who cares nothing about going fast or BURNING fuel ,, they work..
I tried them,, every one lost power on the dyno .
Why the dyno ?
Because they would not pull the same clutches as stock stator did in the field.

This was on prostock triples, 9400 rpm''

Good luck,,more times than not,, the stator is your gremlin..
 
TPS?

This might sound stupid but did you check your throttle cable? could be fraying and holding up your tps and making it wigg? Or its just a little to tight..... Had a m8 do the exact same thing!
 
ground on the attitude box caused same problem for me last year (bent post rubbed it), but I'd sure guess stator or tss, I've had tss keep me at those RPM's a number of times. I run a finger throttle, so I tent to piss them off when I flip them around.
 
seems like last year this was happening to my buddies twisted I think it ended up being a bad servo motor or power valve cable
 
I would put a resistance test on that stator just to clear that of the problem. Also, where are you pulling power from for your fuel pump? Running a battery or a capacitor? M7s have weak stators as it is, the fact that you're running an AFR, Hi output pump, secondary injectors???, fuel box put an extra pull on that stator.

You have to have solid connections everywhere and I don't just mean crimp connectors, solder and heat shrink.
 
I would put a resistance test on that stator just to clear that of the problem. Also, where are you pulling power from for your fuel pump? Running a battery or a capacitor? M7s have weak stators as it is, the fact that you're running an AFR, Hi output pump, secondary injectors???, fuel box put an extra pull on that stator.

You have to have solid connections everywhere and I don't just mean crimp connectors, solder and heat shrink.

Stator has been rewound. I have a high flow intank Walbro 195. I have a capacitor, and the high flow fuel pump is connnected to where the secondary pump connected to.

The AFR, fuel box, and boost gauge are connected to the stock fuel pump wiring.

I am not sure, but I believe it is either the TPS, ECU, power valves, or Servo Motor. It could also be the ignition coil. But I know a couple of guys who ran a rewound stator from stator corp, and the worked really well.

Also, I had another pump that was new last year burn up on me this year when all the issues started. Maybe there is a bad short/ground to the fuel pump, and it burned the pump up?

The other thing I forgot to menchion, is, Last year my charge tube got so hot, it melted my Hood harness. I know it sounds crazy, but I was running some serious boost, and running it for a long time up some long hills. I unplugged it, and ran with it off all season long. I put a new Harness on this year. Before I plugged it in, it ran really good. It was only after I connected it, that I had issues. So, Could this be the problem?
 
hood!!!!!!!!!

If you unplugged the hood gauge and ran that m7 without a resistor for it you probably took out your ecu! They cant run without the hood gauge they will fry stuff!
maybe u know that but........... thats where your problems is comming from!
 
If you unplugged the hood gauge and ran that m7 without a resistor for it you probably took out your ecu! They cant run without the hood gauge they will fry stuff!
maybe u know that but........... thats where your problems is comming from!

I'm betting the fuel pump prolly put about the same load on the system that the resistor would so he prolly was covered. When they run without the resistor or some other load the ECU doesn't run poorly......it lets all the smoke out and just quits.

Please don't ask how I know this(twice).....LOL
 
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ran into a similar situation the other day figgured it out. It was the pickups in the tank got some baaaad fuel it left a sticky film on the smart valves and they would stick shut and it would barely run pulled them out and cleaned them up and off and running. If you cant fix it give me a call I can try and help.
 
Ok, I have a 06 m7 that sounds like it is doing the same thing. I can start it up and it runs great for ten minutes and then acts like it goes into limp mode. However, once in a while it will run great for a short burst and then acts like its in limp mode again. I cleaned the power valves, new gas, new plugs, checked the servo and cables, and I have no codes being flashed. I noticed my tail light was not on yesterday, but the brake light worked. Maybe a short in the wiring harness? Anyhow, I'm leaning towards a short or the stator stealing power from the servo. The sled runs good to about 4600 rpm and then sounds like the power valve is not open and feels like its running on one piston. I'll let you know what it is when I find the issue.
 
replace the tail light they had some issues with frying the ecu if the tail light went out i know it sounds stupid but try it
 
x2

What Harf said, or double check you wiring as well. I had my tailight harness short and ruined a good day of riding. I think you need to pull you rear bumper and flap off and see if the wire is pinched anywhere...
 
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