Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

  • Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

Nytro powderlites DIES WHEN HOT

Well...4 days of hard riding in warm temps with lots of new snow and "0" issues. The only things I did were stainless braided fuel lines, coolant lines to turbo, some water wetter in with my coolant and opened up the rubber boot at the top of the steering post. It was so nice to turn the key every time and have her start right up:D
 
ahh yeah!!

That is a good feeling eh! My wife even likes going with me again...


What altitude are you runnin, and how much race are ya runnin???

also, what size stainless did ya use for the lines???
 
WingNutRacing said:
That is a good feeling eh! My wife even likes going with me again...


What altitude are you runnin, and how much race are ya runnin???

also, what size stainless did ya use for the lines???
Click to expand...

Running from 4000-9000 ft with 0% race fuel...straight 91 octane. I used -6 hose for the fuel system and oil return and -8 for the coolant lines to the turbo.

IMO...race fuel is a band aid cure for the problem...I didn't put thousands of dollars into my sled to have to put thousands of dollars worth of fuel into it.
I wanted 260-270 reliable hp on pump gas...and that is what I have:D

The sled is working awesome...now for the M-10 install and the 162" track:D
 
yep

I think mine will get the stainless plumbing treatment this summer!!

Like I said before, the race fuel is not the solution, but it does make one hell of a reliable band aid...
 
Getting on to the steel braid issue, would it not enhance fuel boil since the braid would absorb heat and pass it through to the fuel?? I would think a pipe insulation would do the trick.
 
TOPGUN said:
Getting on to the steel braid issue, would it not enhance fuel boil since the braid would absorb heat and pass it through to the fuel?? I would think a pipe insulation would do the trick.
Click to expand...

Yep...pipe insulation would probably do the trick, however stainless braid also keeps the hoses from squashing and kinking...
 
I did another 250 km this weekend 5000-8000 ft.. Still gas and go !!
No venting no braided lines, or race fuel etc etc.. Hammer down for over 1500kms :D:D
 
jrusher said:
I did another 250 km this weekend 5000-8000 ft.. Still gas and go !!
No venting no braided lines, or race fuel etc etc.. Hammer down for over 1500kms :D:D
Click to expand...

To the best of my knowledge you are running a CR tunnel with rad delete...If this is true - you have considerably more air movement without the rad! You definitely shouldn't have any problems - as the heat is being built up between the rad and the tank and boiling the fuel in the line between the tank and pump...
 
I deleted my headlight with venting. Took off all the prefilter junk that was on my vents. Cut the rubber around the steering column. Rode hard for 2 days and not one problem. With the rubber trimmed back on the steering column the heat pours out of there when its getting hot.

Only bad part is my rear shock (stock skid) is toast. Keystone trail hammer the crap#@ out of it.

Later
 
so?

How is everyone doing now, any more ideas on these issues?

Mine has been runnin good, but I'm still feeding it some of the good juice.
 
Mine still fine 3 1 in holes in the rh knee board no probles ran it hard for 2 days all is well love the kit and the new map works great
 
With mine, I decided to change all the relays, including the starter relay, tweeked up the wiring a bit as there was a few issues. Installed a thermal sleeve around the fuel line that is over the engine, installing some additional venting, turning the relays so the connections face down as well as greasing them well with Di-electric and taping the RB3 connection. Hopefully these all together will fix the recent issues.
 
I thought I better update my posts since I did have a problem in the spring time.

The first time this happened was when the sled was running in my garage doing some testing. It would start to run really rough like it was down a cylinder and was really rich. I do not think it was a fuel boiling issue though because it was rich. Im thinking that it was possibly the RB3 getting hot and having ignition problems.

The issue also happened to me on a trail out by swan hills. I was going pretty slow and the same thing happened. I stopped for a while and it was still running crappy. Decided to nurse it back to the truck and noticed that when i pinned it would clean right up. I bagged on it for a minute or so and then problem didnt come back at all.

So i am going to try running multiple vents this year and see how things transpire. I will also sleeve the fuel line but will be leaving it routed up over the tank since I have the TT and no side plastics.

If memory serves me correct the RB3 was really hot when i was having problems.
 
I was thinking about buying a Turbo Nytro not sure now

Listening to you problems makes me not want to do it. Sounds like the same problems i have been having with my 2 stroke MOD. Is this a issue that alot of people have.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

T
22 Boost dies, no answers, only questions
Replies
3
Views
448
TimG
T
N
2017 Mountain Cat Surging/Low Idle
Replies
8
Views
1K
North
N
N
06 M7 won't run full RPM We have checked everything we think
Replies
10
Views
3K
Readymedic
R
T
Fouling Issues - 2012 600 Pro
Replies
6
Views
2K
Troutfrea
T
TurboSportTSi
What caused this piston failure? 340 fanner
2 3
Replies
57
Views
9K
whoisthatguy
whoisthatguy
Premium Features
Join Now Free!



Back
Top