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NEW STYLE AVID DRIVERS FOR ALL PITCHES!!

i just ordered a set of 2.52 8 tooth for stock track. now after looking at this was i supposed to order 9 tooth?
 
So would you recommend putting a ce 2.5 track on a 7 tooth driver 2.86 Pitch on a Stock skid with the front cooler removed, would it have adequate clearance? Or, would you still recommend a drop and roll kit?

The 155 or 156 OR... 163 or 162??

Depends on if you want a ported track or not....one is a 2.86" pitch track the other a 3" pitch... the 55 & 56 fit on the 55 rail... the 62 & 63 same rail.

Larger driver with a D&R may be the way to go... We'll see when the reports come back..The only Pro Chassis sleds that I know of with a D&R, actually an extended chaincase (because the jackshaft cant be dropped any further) are highly modified machines with different suspensions and other goodies.

Best to compare apples to apples.

Until someone actually installs the 7 tooth drivers in an actual Pro chassis and checks for clearances installed (clearance to the roof of the tunnel, top of the front swing-arm etc)...

Whos First??
 
The 155 or 156 OR... 163 or 162??

Depends on if you want a ported track or not....one is a 2.86" pitch track the other a 3" pitch... the 55 & 56 fit on the 55 rail... the 62 & 63 same rail.

Larger driver with a D&R may be the way to go... We'll see when the reports come back..The only Pro Chassis sleds that I know of with a D&R, actually an extended chaincase (because the jackshaft cant be dropped any further) are highly modified machines with different suspensions and other goodies.

Best to compare apples to apples.

Until someone actually installs the 7 tooth drivers in an actual Pro chassis and checks for clearances installed (clearance to the roof of the tunnel, top of the front swing-arm etc)...

Whos First??

Sorry,

I am talking 2008 dragon 800 155. Waiting to hear about someone running a ce 2.5 on avid 2.86 pitch 7 tooth without drop and roll and what kind of clearance they have?
 
Have a look at roof of your tunnel. That is where it is tight on the dragons.

This pic is of a low mile tunnel that ran the stock track with proper tensions since new.
Resizedforposting.jpg


"Not rubbing" and having proper clearance are two completely different things often.

Less clearance robs HP from the sled and heats the clutches more.

Lots of people running with diminished clearance... I wish they had the opportunity to ride one with proper clearance too!!
 
The 155 or 156 OR... 163 or 162??

Depends on if you want a ported track or not....one is a 2.86" pitch track the other a 3" pitch... the 55 & 56 fit on the 55 rail... the 62 & 63 same rail.

Larger driver with a D&R may be the way to go... We'll see when the reports come back..The only Pro Chassis sleds that I know of with a D&R, actually an extended chaincase (because the jackshaft cant be dropped any further) are highly modified machines with different suspensions and other goodies.

Best to compare apples to apples.

Until someone actually installs the 7 tooth drivers in an actual Pro chassis and checks for clearances installed (clearance to the roof of the tunnel, top of the front swing-arm etc)...

Whos First??

I'm hoping to have my drivers this week from robbie. 7 tooth 2.86 for my pro with a 2.5 ce track. I will take pics with clearances to report to all... I'm looking for better clearance and gearing down at the same time this is why I chose this direction.. If it doesn't work the way I want then I will get a extended chain case from robbie and problem solved...
 
So...I need new drivers since my 900 ratchets like crazy as soon as the skis lift, will these drivers work with a cammoplast series IV? or should i buy the old kind?
 
So...I need new drivers since my 900 ratchets like crazy as soon as the skis lift, will these drivers work with a Camoplast series IV? or should i buy the old kind?

You should run Proper tension IMO... It shouldn't ratchet that easily.

Set it to the factory specs.... 3/8-1/2" space between the rails with 12 lbs sitting inside the rails, on the track, with the rear suspended and the brake off.

The Avids are a great way to go to limit ratcheting..

You will still need to run proper tension, even with the Avid Combo drivers, if you want the TRACK to perform well.

MH
 
You should run Proper tension IMO... It shouldn't ratchet that easily.

Set it to the factory specs.... 3/8-1/2" space between the rails with 12 lbs sitting inside the rails, on the track, with the rear suspended and the brake off.

The Avids are a great way to go to limit ratcheting..

You will still need to run proper tension, even with the Avid Combo drivers, if you want the TRACK to perform well.

MH

tried running it tensioned exactly like that and as soon as it got steep and deep(or just deep) it started ratcheting and i had to let off the throttle completely to get it to stop(= getting stuck). As it is now i have to have it like a violin string and i have to have the skid set up for as much ski-pressure thats possible and the limiter pulled as tight as it can be, and when the snow is heavy it still ratchets when the skis come off the snow :face-icon-small-dis
 
tried running it tensioned exactly like that and as soon as it got steep and deep(or just deep) it started ratcheting and i had to let off the throttle completely to get it to stop(= getting stuck). As it is now i have to have it like a violin string and i have to have the skid set up for as much ski-pressure thats possible and the limiter pulled as tight as it can be, and when the snow is heavy it still ratchets when the skis come off the snow :face-icon-small-dis

If you are still ratcheting it is very likely that the rubber lugs on the track are torn. I had the same issue.
 
If you are still ratcheting it is very likely that the rubber lugs on the track are torn. I had the same issue.

nope the track is brand new(and looks brand new, no torn lugs), i have put under 300 miles on it and it ratcheted ever since it was new.
its a switchback nine extended to 159" and running 18/42 gears
 
Did you change the drivers on the drive shaft?

nope the track is brand new(and looks brand new, no torn lugs), i have put under 300 miles on it and it ratcheted ever since it was new.
its a switchback nine extended to 155" and running 18/42 gears
 
Didn't the switchbacks come with 2.52 pitch drivers originaly? I know my 600 switch did.
 
Sorry,

I am talking 2008 dragon 800 155. Waiting to hear about someone running a ce 2.5 on avid 2.86 pitch 7 tooth without drop and roll and what kind of clearance they have?

This the question I have as well. I was set to go with the 7 tooth 2.86 with my CE 2.5 track but it sounds like I may end up with clearance issues somewhere else? Any confirmation on this yet? Sled is 09 D8 155. If there are other issues then it may be better to stay with 8 tooth driver and deal with tight tunnel clearance?
Let's hear it.
 
This the question I have as well. I was set to go with the 7 tooth 2.86 with my CE 2.5 track but it sounds like I may end up with clearance issues somewhere else? Any confirmation on this yet? Sled is 09 D8 155. If there are other issues then it may be better to stay with 8 tooth driver and deal with tight tunnel clearance?
Let's hear it.

Still waiting to hear. I am now leaning on going with 8 tooth 2.86 pitch and doing the holz drop kit because I am installing a bd turbo and the fastrax drop and roll kit won't work with the tunnel dump ith will hit into the muffler. I think doing the ce extreme 2.5 on the 2.86 pitch 8 tooth is going to be tight because I can already see where my stock setup is rubbing on the top of the tunnel. I am thinking if I am going to change the track and drivers spending 1000$ might as well spend 20 percent more and do a drop kit. Still waiting to see if going to a 7 tooth 2.86 pitch is a good option though.
 
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